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I actually run less prop on this particular boat than I do on the stock wind in other boats. I've tried other crazy props on it. The boat can't take it. It should be fine as is.
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Noisy person -
That reminds me. Are the wires that come out of these 27 gauge too?Noisy personComment
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Terry, seems like that they are slightly larger than 27, but not big enough to be 26. Must be metric, or the insulation is thinner.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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I would be happy with the same performance as factory but would hold up maybe a little longer.
Off on a tangent for a minute....
I've always wondered about the enamel on the factory magnet wires. Do you suppose they degrade over time? Like repeated heating and cooling eventually takes a toll and it's at that point that the dead short happens? Not sure how we could quantify that. Not that they're burning up all the time anymore.
We raced a TP down in Atlanta one year that the water cooling was screwed up on. It was coming in at 305 without failing. Motor was junk after that but no dead short. They must run the higher temp wire.Noisy personComment
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That's about what you get with the 2000, like factory or just a little better. WITH THE SAME PROP but you will be able to step up the prop because of the better wire.
The insulation does degrade a little every time it get a little to hot. But take some of the wire you took out of that motor and get a glob of solder on the tip of your iron. Hold that solder on the wire bundle and in just a little while, fizzzzz and the insulation burns off and the solder will flow right on to the naked copper. The good stuff will NEVER do that, not even with your hottest soldering gun. Even with a torch it doesn't want to give up.
Some of the weaker insulation is actually called solder-on, and they claim it makes a good flux!
Yes, TP does use the "good stuff"AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Hi Don,
I've read through this a few times now and have learned a lot about motors and how they work and what has to be done to rewind. This is where I tap out! I don't have presses , I do have a vice though !! and not nuts about the lye business ! I tried doing props, and after about 30 I have 4 that came out good. This is why I go to Brian for props, and now you for a motor re wind. thanks for all the great info.
Cheers, Jay.Comment
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Well, my rewind ran fine but the boat was too light for the wind so I didn't get a very good run in. I'll put heavier batteries in it Saturday.
I didn't notice any difference in performance but no real measurable data. Just the looky feely kinda thing. Looked normal to the eye.Noisy personComment
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It should look "normal"
I've said it a couple of times before but nobody seems to hear me. You won't see a difference in performance using the same prop! Maybe with the AQ because your putting almost 60-70 percent more copper in, so it doesn't "lug down" as much as before. But on the 2000 especially because you can't add but a little bit of copper, you won't see any difference until you prop up. We use 1914s with that motor now, before rewinding it used 1714-1715, maybe an 1814 if you were lucky.
Use more prop and watch the temps, you'll be able to get it hotter than before without hurting it. And now Terry, you can push it till it smokes and it's not a big deal cause you can rewind it again!AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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I've got 2 gold motors I want to rewnd to 2400kv.
I'll probably buy wire from you to do them but I'd practice first on a spare stator with computer wire.
If I ever get around to it I want to build my DF28 Pathfinder as a twin; just a fun boat.
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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Don, I'm not even telling you what kind of props I was turning on the factory winds. Others will read it and think "well, I can do it too". They can if they're running the same boat, battery, CG, rudder blade, turn fin, polished shaft, yadda yadda yadda. Lots go in to a boat that's fast. It's not just the motor. I know that YOU know this. Just sharing for others.
I seriously don't need to go faster than I am. I would need new boats to do it. That Pukas cat in particular is maxed out. The new LSH might take more. Still experimenting with that. I ran a prop on that yesterday that would make you cringe. That's still a factory motor though. Maybe Tylers Raptor if I ever get around to finishing it. Might throw that 2900 in there.Noisy personComment
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Larry said i could run a 1817 on the 2000 and a 1915 on the 1500 so if my stock 1500's burn up it's his fault,lol.
Of course I did my props and he had Chris do his. I had someone else do a pair of these as well for me so it will be interesting to see any difference.
I ran a 1914 3 blade in MI last summer and the motor came back pretty hot but it's still chouching and fast in my cat! Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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Ray- I think I said a 1815 on the 2000. for the cat. and a 1915 for the 1500Larry said i could run a 1817 on the 2000 and a 1915 on the 1500 so if my stock 1500's burn up it's his fault,lol.
Of course I did my props and he had Chris do his. I had someone else do a pair of these as well for me so it will be interesting to see any difference.
I ran a 1914 3 blade in MI last summer and the motor came back pretty hot but it's still chouching and fast in my cat!
LarryPast NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & WetComment
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Ruh, Roh, Rastro...
Glad I brought it up. What are you up to after 8pm? Skype maybe?
I can sell them no problem if I need to. I just can't get new ones the right size. We'll talk, thanks. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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Right Terry , setup is the main factor in what prop you can run. We tend to use smaller than ya'll do, cause the Orca is a BIG hull and we like to run em, pretty wet. Easier to stay right side up that way. Ya'll run them a lot looser than we do, so I would suspect you can get away with a bigger prop.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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AmpDaddy
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