" did I get screwed" follow up report

[donhuff]

"This old thread came back to life with a post. Don, teach me and I'll write the damned book. I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box but I think I've shown I can type.......a bit."


really Terry, I don't think we would sell enough copies to pay for the gas to get us to the publisher! There arent all that many FE racers ya know, and very few of them would even consider doing something like that. But I guess that they might like to read about doing it.

[fweasel]

Copper is rated at 100 as the baseline I suppose, and silver was rated at 104. Third in line was a surprise to me as I thought it would be better, Gold at 77.

I remember being surprised about hearing that for the first time from a materials professor in school. He made me laugh saying something to the effect that gold is a schitty conductor, but because it doesn't oxidize, it remains a shiny, schitty conductor, forever.

[ray schrauwen]

"This old thread came back to life with a post. Don, teach me and I'll write the damned book. I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box but I think I've shown I can type.......a bit."


really Terry, I don't think we would sell enough copies to pay for the gas to get us to the publisher! There arent all that many FE racers ya know, and very few of them would even consider doing something like that. But I guess that they might like to read about doing it.

There are numerous videos on Youtube showing how to do outrunners. Not many if any doing inrunners.

So Don, it looks like you take the aluminum outer cover off the stator. How do you do that and what do you use to keep it in place when you re-assemble? Loctite?

[ray schrauwen]

Ray,

Tenshock 1/8 Buggy 6 Pole Sensorless RC Brushless Motor X802V2-2400KV? I think that if you want a motor like that, I would get one of the Dynamite 3935 40x82 motors, but it's only 1650 kv and that might not be enough for what you want to do with it. But internally that is basically the same motor, only 82mm long instead of 68mm long. Better yet, If you could find one that somebody has burned up, out of one of the RTR boats, and send it to me for a rewind at the higher kv and new ceramic bearings, then you would have a good motor!

I was just curious how good those motors were for a boating application, not too serious about it.

If I see a Dynamite motor that you mention, I'll buy it and send it to you to play with.

For now I have a few Leopards I could send. Lets see how the little blue one goes first, it's on it's way a while ago, snail mail.

"HP peaks. Very interesting."

?? questions???

Not sure. They would be specific to what I have in my boats.

I'll think of something.

[donhuff]

"So Don, it looks like you take the aluminum outer cover off the stator." Do you mean the case?? I guess that's has to be what you mean because that's about the only aluminum in the motor.

I made a few fixtures that make it easier to do in my press, but you can do it by hand too. It'll just be harder to accomplish.

First, let's see if we can figure out how our motor is held together. Glue or screws, or threaded parts. Lets start with the back end, that's the end WITHOUT the power take off (PTO) shaft sticking out. Screws are easy to see, take the screws out and see if the end will come off. They are usually a snug fit, except for the Aqua craft motor, so with the screws out, hit the end of the shaft on your work bench. That should push the end off, maybe not all the way, so do it some more until it's loose enough to pull off. Do this over a table top or bench because there will most likely be some shims on the shaft that might fall off, and you need to keep up with them.

With the end bell off, use a pair of pliers to grip the rotor shaft, and pull the rotor out, it'll be hard cause the magnets are strong. Again, there will be shims on the other end too, that might, might not, fall off. With the rotor out, look inside at the bearing on the pto end and make sure that the shims did not stick to the bearing. They do that sometimes.

If the pto side end bell has screws, remove them. If not, then it's probably threaded into the case, a lot of the 36mm motors are done this way. Again, I have made some "wrenches?" to fit the holes in the end bell on the AQ and dynamite motors. This makes it a lot easier and quicker for me to get them off. But you can screw a couple of long 3mm bolts into opposing motor mount holes. And then use a screwdriver or any kind of lever between them to unscrew the end bell. But first, we need to protect the case so as not to scratch or gouge it's surface. Best way to do that is to make a sleeve out of a piece of pipe or tubing. Make it as long as the case, and split it down it's length so that it will expand to go around the case, but split it wide enough that it can close up on the case. Use something thin enough that it will bend easily, you could even use sheet aluminum, and roll it into a tube. And NO, aluminum foil won't work!

Now while holding the case in a vice or with channel locks, leaving the about 1/2" or so sticking out, heat the outside of the case where the end bell is screwed into it. They always put some kind of thread locker on them so they won't vibrate loose, and unscrew. It takes a good bit of heat, I go around and round the case 5 or 6 times to get it good and hot. If you see the anodizing starting to change color, that's to hot. Now put your lever between the bolts that you screw in the MMT holes, and see if it'll unscrew counter clockwise. If not, heat it some more until it lets go. And for motors like the dynamite 3831 2000 kv, that has the front end bell machined as part of the case. We have to skip this step and I'll show you how to deal with them later.

It's now time to remove the stator. It too is glued into the case, and heat is the best way to remove it. Again I have fixtures to help me with this but you can do it without them. Find a dowel or maybe a 1/2" drive socket that will fit inside the case easily, but have as large a diameter as possible. You'll be pushing on the pto end and pushing on the wire loops on the stators end. It doesn't matter if you hurt the wire, because they are bad anyway, or you wouldn't be taking the motor apart... I hope. With a 6 inch or longer extension (or longer) in your socket, or your dowel, hold the dowel up and put the pto end of the stator on the dowel. While wearing gloves that can take a little heat!!! Heat with a propane torch round and round the OD of the case where the stator is located. Now put the bottom end of the dowel against the work bench top, and press down on the case with your gloved hand. Did it move? If not, then heat some more and try again, until it slides off.

[donhuff]

I'll try to get a few pictures to help explain.

[T.S.Davis]

Don.....I'm gonna learn this if it kills me. Thanks for the play by play. It's reading perfectly.

[donhuff]

Someday I'll make a video.................someday!

how about that can motor? Did it work ok, better?

[jaike5]

Hi Don, great info, a video would be great so that I to can take a go at building a squid motor! …….. someday soon Eh !!
Cheers, Jay.

[Doug Smock]

Ya need to post a pic or two of the squid motor Don.

[donhuff]

DAMIT, That's suppose to be a secret! DOUG and JAY


I'll put some picson here of it tomorrow. I have one on my phone now, but I'm to stoooopid to be able to get it onto the cummputer. Well actually have it in my email but don't know how to move it to a forum. And don't try to tell me how to do it, cause I'm feeling pretty good right now, and I don't want to get pizzed off and upset.

[donhuff]

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[donhuff]

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