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AmpDaddy
don huff -
If, When, you get serious about it, and get to where you can take one apart and get all the old wire out without destroying the stator insulation (I have a trick for that). Then the complicated part starts. And when the disassembly doesn't go so well and you really mess up the stator insulation. I have just recently figured out how to strip all the insulation off of the stator, and then powder coat it back. And the powder coat seems to do a better job of protecting the wire than the stock stuff does.
If you do try it, let me know and I can do some more post on how to go about making the wire bundles, turns, and the actual threading of the stator slots.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Gee Whiz Mr. Don, I should have just asked how much to rewind for me lol. Just kidding. Glad everything worked out for ya. Looks like I did get took on that motor.
JohnComment
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Why do you want to put the 1515 rotor in the gool? Ya know, you can make a fixture to put in the lathe , and it holds your dremel tool with a stone in it. Then bore out the stator's rotor hole until that rotor will just slide in it. Keep that air gap a tiny as possible, cause the tighter it is, the more torque/horsepower you make, for the same amount of amps used. I once bored out an AQ 2030 like that, and put a rotor out of a dyna 3835 1500 in it. That was the strongest AQ motor I ever built, but it was still no match for a stock 1500. I called it "Frank" short for Frankenstein!Mary me....
JK... Love your stuff.
Unfortunately, the goolrc 3670 motor will not accept the 1515 rotor
.... it's windings could easily be compressed.
If you don't compress the windings like you do Don, don't the windings in air create more motor heat an decrease efficiency?
I'm tempted to start tooling parts like you to rewind some duds I have lying around.
What kind of press are you using, pressure?
If there is one thing I'm good at, it's tinkering like this.
I've got a lathe to make some tooling.
I use a one ton arbor press from harbor freight. Use enough pressure until you get it little enough to fit inside the can. I just press them until I feel the resistance get pretty hard. That lets me know it's about as far as it will go.
But I don't think that it's necessary at all or has any bearing at all on the performance aspects of the motor. It's just to get them in the can. I really feel that they would cool better if left dangling in the air," IF" we had some air moving through the motors. Which we don't! Maybe being compressed helps carry the heat out through the stator ,case, cooling can, by making better contact with each wires surrounding wire. I have some insulating varnish which I have dipped a few wound stators in. It's supposed to lock all the wire in place so the don't wiggle and chafe the insulation, and transfer heat to the case better, because it is now one solid unit. I don't know for sure, but it does make them look good.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Yes you did John. Whoever sold it to you had to know something was wrong with it.
See, the problem with getting me to rewind it for you is that you would then have even MORE money in it, and you can get a brand new one for $90. But then, it would not be nearly as strong or durable as my rewind. BUT instead of paying $90 for a new Leopard, put a little more with it and get a comparable sized TP and have a really good motor.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Don, if i wanted to read a book to learn more is there something you would recommend?Noisy personComment
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Sorry Terry but NO, I have not found one, but I have not really looked for a single source for the info either. All the info I have and tell ya'll about, comes from the internet. I spend hour after hour of searching and reading useless crap, just to find a couple of paragraphs that actually mean something to us. But I try to not just repeat what I read, until I can prove the theory out to myself and understand it.
Some of the best info I have gotten comes from this thread on rcgroups. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s-checks-tests
A lot of it is from 15 years ago, but it's still the best I have found. These guys rewind outrunners, but most of the info still applies to our inrunners too. But just like has happened with every hobby that I have ever been involved with, most of "The EXPERTS" try to make it sound as complicated as possible, ans seem to be totally incapable of breaking it down into terms that the average guy can understand.
This video explains more about how our motors work and what makes them spin, than any other I have found. Forget the synchronous part as our stuff does not work like that, but it shows the stator poles and how they rotate to keep a "pulling coil" a little in front of the magnets on the rotor.
AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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very impressive Don , looks confusing to me , I used to handle the old slot car motors but that don't have a clue !!!Comment
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Thanks, most of the slot car motors were 3 pole. A magnet with the north facing in on one side, and a south pole facing in on the other. Then the armature had the three coils on it, and the commutator and brushes did the "commutation" (switching of current polarity heading to those coils) . In these old motors, the current polarity was always the same all the way to the brushes. And it is the commutator contacting the brushes with a + and - going to the coil, and then some degrees of armature rotation later, it gets a - and + charge from them, and thats what causes the magnetic polarity of the coils on the armature to reverse. Note two that all three coils are charged all the time, with two coils being north and the other south, then vice versa.
The big difference with our brushless motors is the commutation is all handled by the ESC. Also our motors are all inrunners where the coils are in the stator and the permanant magnets are one the rotor.
And another big difference is that only two legs of our motors are charged at one time, and the third is sending a charge of back EMF to the ESC. This signal is what "tells" the ESC where the rotor is in it's rotation. Ya know how sometimes when you give a motor a tiny bit of throttle, it might act a little confused and shutter a little before going on and spinning up. That's cause ithe ESC hasn't figured out exactly where the rotor is yet. The rc car guys get around this (because they sometimes need to go really slow) by using a sensored motor. The back plate of the motor has tiny hall effect sensors on it that sense where the rotor is all the time and at any rpm.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Your not gonna like the answer!!!
I use a 3" diameter iron rod with a well bored into one end, filled with 3 parts LYE and one part salt. Put a torch on it and heat until it is liquid and blazing ass hot. Dip the wires in it and wait till it stops boiling, then dip slowly into water to cool before the lye has time to harden. Wash off with soapy water and solder pretty soon or the copper will corode. BE CAREFUL!
Ray sez he uses an iron pipe cap and that should work fine too.AmpDaddy
don huffComment
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Don't forget the glasses and gloves.
LarryPast NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & WetComment
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