Burnt out motor

[PieterSmith]

Thank you Old School, will tear the installation down as to try and understand what went wrong. will post findings here as to try and help future installs from falling into the same mistake.

[Bp9145]

GoolRC is a rebrand for HobbyStar. There are actually 2 programming cards and 2 programming box one with LCD and the other LED. The first programming card is the red one that CraigP mentioned but, it's only for 120A and will NOT WORK. The second is a white one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-Prog...4383.l4275.c10 which mentions will WORK with all other esc if you choose not to use the LED programming box.
Then there are the 2 programming boxes which are made for HobbyStar products which is the same as GoolRC. . .one for a Turbo version which is an LCD which will NOT WORK because it has the turbo boost timings or turbo timings. . .etc The one that WILL WORK is the one with LED. . .HobbyStar LED programming box . https://www.ebay.com/itm/172669508827 which seems to WORK with the GoolRC escs. I bought a GoolRC Car 2650KV brushless motor/120A esc combo last year for a 1/8th truggy and it came with the red programming box and the programming box will NOT WORK with the GoolRc 160A esc. You could also use this one which is the same as the HobbyStar programming LED box but with a different name brand . https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-Prog...oAAOSwA4dWF1-o . . . .which should WORK. Here's a link to video made for GoolRC escs that might be helpful . . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpAIlsVGzu0

[PieterSmith]

Hi Fast, what i can confirm is that the LED Box does not work as i tried it , https://www.ebay.com/itm/172669508827
The LCD does not work, bought that one as well, tried it via box alone and via USB link on PC
have ordered the white one and the box from Flycolor : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High...311.0.0.AypOZM

i am sure that when i am done buying program cards i will be able to program any ESC on this planet lol, then just got to buy a new ESC and motor.

Thank you for the info

[Bp9145]

Good to know because to my understanding, as mentioned on what I read, it should work.

[Bp9145]

Hi Fast, what i can confirm is that the LED Box does not work as i tried it , https://www.ebay.com/itm/172669508827
The LCD does not work, bought that one as well, tried it via box alone and via USB link on PC
have ordered the white one and the box from Flycolor : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High...311.0.0.AypOZM

i am sure that when i am done buying program cards i will be able to program any ESC on this planet lol, then just got to buy a new ESC and motor.

Thank you for the info

So now you will soon have 5 programming cards/boxes. . .holy crap just for one esc! I've been happy with their motors and motor/esc combos so I was going to try the 160A marine esc but couldn't find any available at the moment. Good thing I didn't. I'm glad you haven't given up Peter because now I'll wait until I hear from your report on which one will finally work before I get one. I guess the parameters for the programming box are only good for a car esc.

[PieterSmith]

ESC.jpg
ok so this is where i am at, at this point
Hobbywing LED program card for boat " dashed line in each digit space " motor just giving of single beep per second
Hobbywing LCD - goes as far as displaying " connecting ESC " motor just giving of single beep per second
Pragram card ver 2 " Red LED lights up, nothing in digit spaces " motor just giving of single beep per second

so .... waiting for 2 more cards to arrive, but that will only be in a few weeks

[Jamey]

Sorry I'm obviously no help on your esc research but I was just wondering how long did you run the boat before it died and what prop were you running?

[Speed3]

Did you check the shaft to make sure it not slipping, because if the coupler wasn't tight enough, the shaft would slip get hot and the grease that you had on the shaft would smoke.

Also if your battery is faulty the ESC would work with it.

Battery has to be properly soldered at all points.

Check all connectors and see if anywhere has a poor connection.

The solder on the connectors would melt off before

[Speed3]

before anything burns.

So check all connections, make sure you have a good battery, and make sure the shaft is properly tightened.

[CraigP]

Good advice!

[RiaanV]

Shaft definitely greased well.
Checked all my soldering nothing melted
A light brownish powder was around just moter nothing by esc
Collet well fastened double check that. I ran a 6917 3blade prop.
Funny is that motor is dead but when i connected the battery again i get a strong pulse on power cable between esc and battery.
Boat ran not more than 10 seconds on water
I will post my number and will be more than habby to share a vid of the run and ill record a vid of the pulse on cable
+27781290931
Riaan

[RiaanV]

Send me a msg on watsup and ill share the vid

[Jamey]

That gas prop is pretty massive for a 4092. I bet that was 90% of your problem. That is bigger than the prop I typically run on my 2028 which is a 56x113 can size. In gas and nitro an oversize prop will just bog down but in electric it is deadly. The amp pull sky rockets and the heat escalates very quickly.

General guideline is to start on the small side, run a minute, bring it in and check the temps. Esc, motor, connections, wires...etc. I am thinking you would start in the 45-50mm 1.4 ratio range to evaluate your setup and then move up if everything is cool. I can't believe your esc survived lol

[Old School]

The stock Osprey is supplied with a 4074 motor with a 38 - 40 mm two blade prop. Electric motors do not use gas sized props.

[Fluid]

That big gas prop certainly overloaded the OP’s motor, but the fuse should not have been the motor, especially running for just 10 seconds. The ESC should have blown first, which leads me to believe the problem was the motor. Any motor, new or not, can have/develop an internal short and melt down. This is more likely in cheap motors like the OP used, but I know of a 2010-vintage Neu which turned into an induction furnace the first time it was fired up by a highly experienced racer. I strongly suspect that the motor was at fault here.

I have run several 40102 motors with Kvs around 1250 on 6S, and usually spin props in the 52-55 mm range. A 67mm three-blade is ‘way too much for this setup even for extreme SAW running. I too suggest 50-52 mm props along with setting the ESC appropriately for the motor used.



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