Swordfish Pro+ 220 Running Hot

[TristanJones]

Sorry, I'm on my phone. It's real slow.
Mono will always pull more amps than a hydro. In a straight line anyway. Therefore running hotter.
No comment on the extra caps, I'm not sure the right answer.
Are the temp and throttle curves relative?

[T.S.Davis]

Well it's not that. I asked about timing because if it's high it can make for heat.

I was going to suggest the 447/3 was a bit too much. Hard to tell with it dropping out him on the 445. Scratching my head on this one too. We had one yesterday that de-soldered for no apparent reason.

It's a nice build. Very tidy. How is the drive line? Is it smooth?

Is there a gap at the drive dog?

I apologize for the seemingly basic questions but sometimes I miss the littlest things and it bites me on the behind.

[rickwess]

How is the drive line? Is it smooth?

Is there a gap at the drive dog?

I apologize for the seemingly basic questions but sometimes I miss the littlest things and it bites me on the behind.

At this point, nothing is a basic question. The drive-line is smooth............and short. There is a gap at the drive dog, but only about 1/2 a cable width since the flex part of the cable is only 4"-5" long. I do run a teflon washer between the drive dog and stinger so I can tell if there is binding going on.

[srislash]

If you have the shrink off Rick, be sure to check the thermal compound between the cooling and FETs or even redo it. I have seen a little separation on some ESC's there. Just something to check.

It just dawned on me, these are soldered cooling blocks aren't they?

[oscarel]

Might be a little work, but what about swapping controllers between your hydro and mono?

[rickwess]

If you have the shrink off Rick, be sure to check the thermal compound between the cooling and FETs or even redo it. I have seen a little separation on some ESC's there. Just something to check.

It just dawned on me, these are soldered cooling blocks aren't they?

I was going to say that there is no thermal compound. The FETs are soldered directly to the cooling tubes. I wrapped it in electrical tape yesterday so I could run it some more, but I'll post some pics of the innards when I go to put it back together for real. Of note, the electrical tape does a better job of binding the wires and caps tight to the ESC than heat shrink does. When I put it back together for good, I'll probably use electrical tape for the first layer, then put a layer of heat shrink over that.

[rickwess]

Might be a little work, but what about swapping controllers between your hydro and mono?

The hydro's battery wires are too short and the mono is 4s2p. It would be and in the end I wouldn't have an ESC for the hydro. Once I've ruled out the obvious, the Ockham's razor principle will kick in and I'll just get another ESC.

[kfxguy]

Is the boat running wet? As in nose down? That will cause extra drag and heat. Also looks like your trim tabs are flush with the bottom of the hull...they shouldn't be. They look a little angled down (causing to run wet) but it could just be the pic. Just some ideas.

[rickwess]

The boat doesn't look to be running wet. The pic you saw was an older one before adjustments were made to stop porpoising. The way it sits now looks to be the happy medium between porpoising and chine walk.

The stinger is neutral

2014-06-02 10_51_53-IMG_20140526_095712_upload - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg

[Jareth]

Rais the trimtaps they are causing alot of drag

[427srule]

Thanks. It's good to have a direct comparison. You're running even hotter. Isn't 88C too hot?

The Specs for all Swordfish controllers say they are thermal protected to 100 degrees Centigrade, 212 degrees Fahrenheit

I hope so, because some of mine are pretty close.

[rayzerdesigns]

I would suggest taking speedo off top of motor also..even though both water cooled..heat off of motor rises to speedo..

[IRON-PAWW]

I bought a Swordfish 240 just recently that had badly mis-aligned cooling tubes. That is, each tube is made of two, set out end to end. If I look up the tubes you can clearly see the obstruction the misalignment makes. I'd say one of them is blocked by half at least. Would *really* restrict water flow in mine. Not sure if the 220 is built the same. Check it anyhow.

[Fella1340]

Hi Rick, I have nothing to add but I would appreciate seeing the inside of the esc if your still planning on posting pictures. I have two of them and a heads up on anything to look for would be much appreciated.
Thanks

[rickwess]

Pics of the inside:

2014-06-03 15_44_58-DSC_0978 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg 2014-06-03 15_45_31-DSC_0979 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg 2014-06-03 15_45_57-DSC_0980 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg 2014-06-03 15_46_17-DSC_0981 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg 2014-06-03 15_46_50-DSC_0982 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg

The aluminum plate covers the FETs was insulated with the thinnest piece of silicon sheet I have ever seen. I could see that the silicone already had some perforations from the FETs. When I put it back together, I plan on using 1/8" automotive gasket from a sheet I had laying around (why do I have this stuff??). It's a cork/rubber mixture so should insulate and handle heat well.