I wonder if switching the lines around so the esc is being cooled from the other inlet might help, at least it might rule out water flow to the esc. Just a thought
Yep.
There has to be something basic that I'm missing. It makes no sense that the motor stays cool as ice yet the ESC is reaching 160F. I need to invent one of those ear-muff attachments (what I use to run my RFL otuboard out of the water) for the rudder to do a test of water flow.
There has to be something basic that I'm missing. It makes no sense that the motor stays cool as ice yet the ESC is reaching 160F. I need to invent one of those ear-muff attachments (what I use to run my RFL otuboard out of the water) for the rudder to do a test of water flow.
I want to run the water into the rudder pick-ups, not the water line.
Yes the ESC is on the bottom pick-up.
Run it the opposite direction, you'll be able to see what's coming out and that would be about what's going in. I also do this to make sure the seals around the motor are working and there's no leaks in the lines.
Also look at the average current draw between your log and mine.
Make sure your water lines are all free flowing. Check motor jacket for flow sometimes there can be an issue there. It's hot but it's a race set up. It will be by the end of a run
That's peak temp. If you take a look, it's risen to that over time. My boats run 2mins max. As you can see I try to stay on the throttle lol
Your FE30 temp curve looks identical to my FE30 temp curve. My Mono curve on the other hand just looks strange.
If I was reading 88C with my temp gun I would be worried, but as noted in the other thread, there was a big difference between what I was measuring and what the data log was saying. I'm just learning how to interpret the data logs so I'm learning the difference is to be expected.
0* on the D winding (mono) and 10* on the Y winding (hydro). This thread is really about the heat with the mono. Tristan posted his hydro logs here in what I think was a response to my hydro logs in a different thread.
The weekend is over so I've lost access to water for 2 weeks now due to work.......damn.
On a little bit of a tangent, since I pulled the heat shrink off the Swordfish to check for issues, can I assume the existing caps are parallel? It looks like I could easily add 2 extra caps before I put it back together.
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