30" Scratch Built Cat

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  • Jesse J
    scale FE racer
    • Aug 2008
    • 7116

    #76
    Yay, lookin good! I am really glad you stuck with it! I do think you might want to cross grain your sponsons with a layer of thin ply at this point. Even if you are going to glass it, a nice layer of 1/32" ply won't add much weight but will add lots of rigidity. Use some good contact cement and align the cross grain parallel with step.

    whatcha gonna do fer a lid?
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

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    • lomdel
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2008
      • 708

      #77
      Thanx Jesse. That (cross-grain the sponsons) is just what I am going to do next. Shouldn't it be parallel with the transom though? The decklid would be a simple ply sheeting on curved balsa beams resting on supports I glued to the inside of where the opening is going to be, but the cockpit will be glassfibre over foam shaped by hand. Still need to find a suitable foam though...
      I received my stingers (Etti 4mm) and my rudder recently as well! Will post some mock-up pics soon. What is the rule of thumb for rudder behind prop distance? My rudder will be about 4cm behind the props. (Couldn't find a long enough short-standoff rudder...)

      Comment

      • OldMann
        Member
        • Apr 2009
        • 30

        #78
        Originally posted by lomdel
        Here's a few pics of the sheeting up till now...
        Nice work. I give you some advice. Before you mount the top to hit with a lake for waterproofing. In this way, the lake will protect the wood and will not appear strains.

        Comment

        • Jesse J
          scale FE racer
          • Aug 2008
          • 7116

          #79
          Originally posted by OldMann
          Nice work. I give you some advice. Before you mount the top to hit with a lake for waterproofing. In this way, the lake will protect the wood and will not appear strains.
          Hi OldMann, could you clarify what you mean please? not sure what you are trying to say, thanks.

          Lomdel, you can cross grain it however you wish. I was following the plans from Shockerman (the ones Norman used) and there it says to parallel the steps - and thinking about it, this way you have a nice edge at the back of your step and the curved part of the step is perpendicular to the grains, better deal, given your steps are slanted like yours are. Otherwise you could have potential for warping of the hull.
          "Look good doin' it"
          See the fleet

          Comment

          • lomdel
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2008
            • 708

            #80
            Originally posted by OldMann
            Nice work. I give you some advice. Before you mount the top to hit with a lake for waterproofing. In this way, the lake will protect the wood and will not appear strains.
            I also don't understand what you mean Oldmann .
            Parallel to the steps it will be...

            Comment

            • OldMann
              Member
              • Apr 2009
              • 30

              #81
              Originally posted by lomdel
              I also don't understand what you mean Oldmann .
              Parallel to the steps it will be...
              Please excuse me if my expression is not correct. I live in Romania and do not speak English all the time

              I said that before they mount the upper deck is better to waterproof the wood in order not to distort. Deformation occurs when the wood could be saturated with water. It may happen that in certain circumstances to enter the water in the boat, if not waterproof interior wood absorbs water.
              Thanks for understanding

              Comment

              • Jesse J
                scale FE racer
                • Aug 2008
                • 7116

                #82
                Ah, yes good point, waterproofing is a MUST I agree.

                I have also noticed that the very act of waterproofing can distort the balsa. I had a nicely shaped hatch and went to polyurethane it and it went flat on me. lost all curvature and became rigid. So, yes waterproof before, but be ware that you might lose some curvature if you had it built in.
                "Look good doin' it"
                See the fleet

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                • lomdel
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2008
                  • 708

                  #83
                  I covered the whole interior of the boat with a coat of thinned fibreglass resin. The tunnel floor on the inside was covered with fibreglass clotch and regular fibreglass resin to provide a strng backbone for the hull. I will now cross-grain the exterior and apply a second coat of resin to the interior to make sure... Only then will I start the polyurethane sealer, sand, primer, sand, final coat and clear coat(?)...

                  Comment

                  • Norman2
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2008
                    • 321

                    #84
                    30" scratch Built cat

                    Hi Jesse an lomodel.
                    Some photos of some progress. Will now finish the canopy and post more photos.
                    Regards, Norman
                    Sorry will post photos again
                    34" Ekos Cat UL-1 Powered

                    Comment

                    • Norman2
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2008
                      • 321

                      #85
                      30" scratch built cat

                      Trying to upload photos. Will try again tommorow
                      34" Ekos Cat UL-1 Powered

                      Comment

                      • Norman2
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2008
                        • 321

                        #86
                        30" scrath built cat

                        Hoping the photos will upload. Wil finish canopy shortly.
                        Norman
                        Attached Files
                        34" Ekos Cat UL-1 Powered

                        Comment

                        • Jesse J
                          scale FE racer
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 7116

                          #87
                          that turned out real fine, good idea! can't wait to see her wet...
                          "Look good doin' it"
                          See the fleet

                          Comment

                          • lomdel
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 708

                            #88
                            That SV27 cockpit is a perfect fit! What are the length and width dimensions of the cockpit?

                            Comment

                            • Norman2
                              Senior Member
                              • Sep 2008
                              • 321

                              #89
                              30" scratch built cat

                              Originally posted by lomdel
                              That SV27 cockpit is a perfect fit! What are the length and width dimensions of the cockpit?
                              Hi lomodel. Your project is doing just fine and you are doing all the correct things
                              to make a strong durable hull. I will measure the cockpit today as soon as the
                              fiberglass resin dries. Don't give up. Regards
                              Norman
                              34" Ekos Cat UL-1 Powered

                              Comment

                              • lomdel
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2008
                                • 708

                                #90
                                Some pics of the cross-grain applied to the bottom of the sponsons. The sides will be vertically grained next. I also did a loose fit of the stingers and the rudder to see what it would look like. They were just put in place and nothing is set or fixed yet, obviously...
                                From a previous post you would recall that I applied a coat of thinned resin to the entire inside of the hull to seal and watertight. To make sure I will do another coat before adding flotation (pool-noodle) and sheeting the deck.
                                Attached Files

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