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Here is my build of the DF 29
Feigao 8xl, OSE water jacket, custom motor mount built by Peter Zica
, .150 flex cable, Speedmaster Mono hardware system with Speedmaster 1”x 1.5” trim tabs. Plywood parts are covered with fiberglass cloth and zpoxy, just thought it had to be sealed anyway so might as well make it look better by giving it a fiberglass cloth texture . The strut is shortened by 1 inch as suggested by others including Doug Smock and andym for better handling
. I’ll be running it as a 4s setup with 2 side by side – 2s 4900 polyquests and using a 200amp WC Himodel esc that I’ve posted pics of on the Highmodel 200amp thread here on the OSE forum. My CG is between 31- 33% depending on where I position my batteries.
I couldn’t find a T-Bar that was for a 4” rail width so built it. Here’s how, if any one cares
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Once the stuffing tube and the flex shaft were aligned the way I wanted it with the coupler of the motor and epoxied to the transom I built the T-bar. Drill the hole larger than the stuffing tube to fit through so it doesn’t touch the tube, epoxy the T-bar to the side of the rails once the epoxy is set use a piece of electrical or hockey tape with a hole punched through with a piece spare stuffing tube of the same size as what’s in the hull and slide it over the tube and tape it to the t-bar, this is so the epoxy that is added to fill the hole from the opposite side gives a nice clean looking finish, add the epoxy let set and you have a perfect aligned T-bar.
Now just have to wait till the ice melts
Ken
Feigao 8xl, OSE water jacket, custom motor mount built by Peter Zica
, .150 flex cable, Speedmaster Mono hardware system with Speedmaster 1”x 1.5” trim tabs. Plywood parts are covered with fiberglass cloth and zpoxy, just thought it had to be sealed anyway so might as well make it look better by giving it a fiberglass cloth texture . The strut is shortened by 1 inch as suggested by others including Doug Smock and andym for better handling. I’ll be running it as a 4s setup with 2 side by side – 2s 4900 polyquests and using a 200amp WC Himodel esc that I’ve posted pics of on the Highmodel 200amp thread here on the OSE forum. My CG is between 31- 33% depending on where I position my batteries.I couldn’t find a T-Bar that was for a 4” rail width so built it. Here’s how, if any one cares
.Once the stuffing tube and the flex shaft were aligned the way I wanted it with the coupler of the motor and epoxied to the transom I built the T-bar. Drill the hole larger than the stuffing tube to fit through so it doesn’t touch the tube, epoxy the T-bar to the side of the rails once the epoxy is set use a piece of electrical or hockey tape with a hole punched through with a piece spare stuffing tube of the same size as what’s in the hull and slide it over the tube and tape it to the t-bar, this is so the epoxy that is added to fill the hole from the opposite side gives a nice clean looking finish, add the epoxy let set and you have a perfect aligned T-bar.
Now just have to wait till the ice melts
Ken
Now there getting out there.
I will post some pics once I'm done with the hatch.
lol
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