32 inch F1 Tunnel build: Cozy F1 T800

[autolex]

BEAUTIFUL woodwork! I can definitely say i'm not this talented (or patient!) keep up the pictures!

[Dirk Jan]

Thank you Autolex [emoji106]

Next update:

Filling the sponsons with foam board.



I made a template from paper for the deck plating.



The deck is from 0.8mm birch plywood. I managed to apply the deck in one piece.







I chose for the SSS 3674 1650kV motor; it is affordable and I heard good stories about SSS motors.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G970F met Tapatalk

[lilbigmacky]

Looking great so far. Do you have cowling for the outboard motor?

[Dirk Jan]

Yes, cowling will be home made, for outboard as well as the main cowl/ cockpit and it will be shown here lateron!

[Dirk Jan]

Another update, starting with a comparison between the Cozy F1 and Cozy F1 T800



Bottom side with lowered mid section:



Time for applying laminate, 50gr/m2 glass cloth. I used the deck template again.

[nocebo]

This is awesome! Really amazing work and cool to see it go from a concept to reality.

A question on your inventor modeling process - do you start my modelling the overall shape/profile of the hull and then later build out the framing? What do you use as your reference for sizing of various hull components?

[Dirk Jan]

Thanks Nocebo and good question about the design.

I used the actual F1 Tunnels as reference and I took a good look at rc F1 Tunnels for the length - width - height ratio.
As I made the smaller Cozy F1 already, I took that experience as well. For example, I wanted wider sponson ride pads with less angle, to improve cornering. Also, I wanted the sponsons and deck smoothly transition into each other. That's why I started the design with a sketch of the transom, including sponsons. Next I made a mid plane and sketched the deck layout from the top. Next, the actual sponsons and deck were designed separately from the main sketch as reference.

[Dirk Jan]

Next update; I designed the cockpit / cowl in 3D CAD. I will make a mold with wooden ribs and foam in between. On top of the mold I will directly make the cowl from carbon fiber.



Finishing the front-mid section:





Installing the Turnigy 120A Marine esc. It is positioned besides and below the steering servo. I made a support from ply and mounted the esc with double sided tape.



As the mid box is very large, I put a cross bar between the lipo and other electronics. The lipo is a 6S, 4500mAh 60C.



The hull so far, including steering linkages.

[srislash]

Beautiful work

[nocebo]

Thanks Nocebo and good question about the design.

I used the actual F1 Tunnels as reference and I took a good look at rc F1 Tunnels for the length - width - height ratio.
As I made the smaller Cozy F1 already, I took that experience as well. For example, I wanted wider sponson ride pads with less angle, to improve cornering. Also, I wanted the sponsons and deck smoothly transition into each other. That's why I started the design with a sketch of the transom, including sponsons. Next I made a mid plane and sketched the deck layout from the top. Next, the actual sponsons and deck were designed separately from the main sketch as reference.

Ahh i understand, Im assuming you then sliced the solid to create individual sketches for parts for the framing members? Been thinking about doing a design for a while, but every time i sit down with a blank sketch in Inventor, I dont know where to start. You've done awesome work, looking forward to seeing it run.

[Dirk Jan]

Thank you guys [emoji106]

@Nocebo: I didn't design the hull as a solid, but I used sketches in planes and also used 3D sketched lines for the sponson sides for example.

I started with the transom, including sponsons and added the lines for the length of the sponsons as well:



Added the shape of the hull-mid section:



I made a solid for the sponson sides and I added 3D sketched lines for the sponson shape:





Added the ribs between the 3D sketched lines and made them as separate parts:



Built the mid section of the hull from the sponson lines and bottom sketch:



Finally, assembled it all together to make the design complete. Of course it took me a lot of fine tuning and modification to get the hull shape to my liking.
I hope it helps you making a start on a hull design. You could also design a solid like you said; there are many ways!

[Dirk Jan]

Complete hull:

[nocebo]

Thankyou so much, this is exactly what i was looking for. Youve done a great job on these models, they look really clean and neat.

Ill give it a go following your method - might have to start with a small mono first though, a bit easier : )

[Dirk Jan]

Here's the next update.

I made the battery tray from birch plywood and laminated both sides.



Preparing the hull for paint:



Starting the paint:





I started with the cowl mold as well:

[Dirk Jan]

Finishing the paint on the hull:







And finishing the mold for the cowl:





I laminated 2 layers of 200gr/m2 carbon fiber cloth and 1 layer 50gr/m2 glass cloth to finish it smoothly.
I put a non-carbon part in, for receiving the transmitter signal and gps signal.
Before laminating, I waxed the mold and applied PVA film.
The cowl released from the mold without issues: