Zippkits jae 21fe v2 outrigger_wood kit build

[Bande1]

I run 8mm. I was going to say something yesterday about EC5. But Sam does SAW with 3 second trigger pulls. Nothing is getting hot. It just to me isnt the issue without excessive heat in the connector.

[RaceMechaniX]

As I'm always open to learning, I stand corrected then about the connectors. By your very impressive results it sounds like you know what you're talking about. I really want to run fast without destroying expensive electronics. What connectors do you recommend?

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I am fairly experienced in SAW riggers and have failed more motors and controllers than I care to admit, but hopefully I can pass along some decent advise to keep others from burning up equipment.
I am running LMT 6mm connectors. These are very stiff and hard on the fingers, but carry the most current for their size. One lesson about connectors: you need to choose a single style and vendor and stick with them. You want to avoid mixing and matching connectors even of the same size from different vendors. It's an investment, but worth it in the long run.

Good alternatives readily available are the Castle 6.5mm or 8mm and the larger OSE 8mm and 10mm anti-spark connectors. The connectors need to be a very snug fit.

[RaceMechaniX]

I run 8mm. I was going to say something yesterday about EC5. But Sam does SAW with 3 second trigger pulls. Nothing is getting hot. It just to me isnt the issue without excessive heat in the connector.

It still matters. The connector is not getting hot in 3 seconds due to the thermal mass of the brass, but it's the bottleneck in the power system as shown by the voltage sag.

[RaceMechaniX]

I do have a TP Power 4050 5D 2310kv motor. That be a better match with the Hydra X?

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If it is a non-SVM motor I would say yes. You need to target a KV, prop and speed to stay under 300A. The X8S will start clipping between 300-350A.

[RandyatBBY]

If it is a non-SVM motor I would say yes. You need to target a KV, prop and speed to stay under 300A. The X8S will start clipping between 300-350A.

Is SVM a brand of motor or a term for Space Vector Modulation?

[sammyha]

Is SVM a brand of motor or a term for Space Vector Modulation?

OSE has them. TP Power motors for drag runs, ten seconds less. SVM Series rated for 91,000 rpms. CM Series rated for for 75,000 rpms. Not sure what it stands for...

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[sammyha]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to get setup better next time. Might be next year as our weather up north here is cooling down fast. My Hydra X is sent back, see how long it takes them to replace it. Last one was about a week. I might still get some runs in this season...

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[RandyatBBY]

Thanks I buy 75% of my motors from OSE. Do you think roms is a typo? And it should be rpms that would make more sense.

[sammyha]

Thanks I buy 75% of my motors from OSE. Do you think roms is a typo? And it should be rpms that would make more sense.

Yup, typo... lol.

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[RandyatBBY]

thanks for the fast responce.

[sammyha]

I am fairly experienced in SAW riggers and have failed more motors and controllers than I care to admit, but hopefully I can pass along some decent advise to keep others from burning up equipment.
I am running LMT 6mm connectors. These are very stiff and hard on the fingers, but carry the most current for their size. One lesson about connectors: you need to choose a single style and vendor and stick with them. You want to avoid mixing and matching connectors even of the same size from different vendors. It's an investment, but worth it in the long run.

Good alternatives readily available are the Castle 6.5mm or 8mm and the larger OSE 8mm and 10mm anti-spark connectors. The connectors need to be a very snug fit.

Following your advise, I made some changes to my setup. Turned the HydraX esc around so the power leads are closer to the battery. Soldered on QS8 connectors from OSE. Moved the battery forward, eliminated the extension I was using. Swapped in a TP Power CM 4050, 2310kv motor versus the SVM series motor. Running a SMC 6s 5300mAh 250C SRD lipo. Should not be a problem with voltage sag.

That should address the high ripple current issues I've been having.

Only thing is I can't test run it until next summer...

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[RaceMechaniX]

I just noticed you have a zip tie choking off the water to the ESC. Are you trying to balance the flow to motor and ESC in parallel? If you have a single pickup rudder, just run a single line to the motor first and then the ESC. If you have a twin pick-up you can run parallel lines for each component. Otherwise a Y fitting is a little risky here that the ESC does not get enough cooling.

One more point, don't be surprised if you have issues with the 4050CM motor. Boats do not need the SVM or CM series. The sleeve on the rotor kills performance and causes the ESC to run quite hot. A plain old 4050 would have been fine.

Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps.

[sammyha]

I just noticed you have a zip tie choking off the water to the ESC. Are you trying to balance the flow to motor and ESC in parallel? If you have a single pickup rudder, just run a single line to the motor first and then the ESC. If you have a twin pick-up you can run parallel lines for each component. Otherwise a Y fitting is a little risky here that the ESC does not get enough cooling.

One more point, don't be surprised if you have issues with the 4050CM motor. Boats do not need the SVM or CM series. The sleeve on the rotor kills performance and causes the ESC to run quite hot. A plain old 4050 would have been fine.

Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps.

Thanks for responding. Actually it is a plain 4050 V1 motor. I couldn't find my info on it when I wrote that post. Also I've checked the flow and balanced it by pumping water thru the lines. I figure that way both the motor and esc are getting cool water.

I have a question for you. You mentioned picking a motor kv and prop that doesn't exceed 300 amps draw and sticking with that setup. How the heck do you get to 148 mph?

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[EddieM41]

Tyler, I love all your expert information!!! I can't imagine running a TP 2310 on 6S for more than a few seconds without burning down the motor or esc. Way to many RPM's. I'm running the same motor/hull on 4S and it is fast and can run many laps on an oval. All this based on my personal experience. Keep up the excellent feedback!
Eddie

[RaceMechaniX]

. How the heck do you get to 148 mph?

First I asked a lot of questions to guys who knew about SAW riggers and then started working my way up from 100 to eventually 148mph. I have probably built around 14 SAW riggers between gas, nitro and electric. Each new boat is some small improvement on the last. When I broke Joerg's 10 year record at 140mph I was only Rev 3 of my own design. Today I am on Rev 9 and only increased from 142 to 148, but it's dead steady on the water and reliable. I have not burnt up a controller, nor cooked a motor, nor waded up a driveline in the current boat. I just have run out of room at Huntsville to run faster. And it also took a lot more than 300A to to get there. I tend to run big boats, but we have run 140mph on a 30" rigger with much less power.