Black Pearl II Hydro - 2020

[Shooter]

Nervous? Nah..... I've done that on every boat I've built and never had a problem. I think Kenny is still running the V1 prototype hull. ��

[ray schrauwen]

Well, I started fairing out the seams last night. I also removed the top brace of the bulkhead as I do with all my boats. Then sanded down the bottom brace.
Individual velcro strips will be on each side so the batts sit flat.

I also fabbed up the motor mount plate. It's amazing how accurate you can be with a nice template with center markers and a very sharp punch. Bob over at Mojo was going to start laser cutting mounts, but I haven't heard anything yet. Hopefully soon.

I recently made a twin motor mount out of a plate like that for my inboard twin DF 28. I used as you did, a good center punch but I also made great use of an old UL-1 motor front plate. I lay it all out and then just drill one hole for each motor mount. I tap that hole and then use the front plate again with one pair of mounting holes drilled out to 1/8". I bolt the motor plate to the new mount and I start drilling the holes out. When the mounting holes are done I drill out the vent holes and center shaft holes.

Wish I never sold my Pearl but that's life.

[Shooter]

Yes, a sharp punch, and a nice set of reading glasses, and you are there!

Honestly, I bet we can hold a few thou true position with that method. And you can always shift the center point if it's a little off by hitting it again with some angle.

[jaike5]

Ray, build an other pearl ! Like the the new version, thin slice !!
J.

[T.S.Davis]

The mount in my latest is G10 plate.

On Ty's boat I used two aluminum plates. One on each side of the bulkhead that it mounts to. Bullet proof. Need it for him.

[eric113]

I want try some Carbon fiber plate for motor plate.

Terry, what do you like use to seal the outside of your hulls? I don’t plan on painting mine.

[T.S.Davis]

I've done it a bunch of ways. The one I'm working on right now has already been surface soaked with West System special clear. I mix it and add some 99% pure rubbing alcohol to thin it out. Gets watery. Pain that on. Let it sit a little bit. Then wipe it down with a clean piece of cotton. Think tee shirt scrap. Let that cure. Last step for me will be Klasskote Clear Urethane. Adds weight but who cares really? Nice thing about the Klasskote is that I can wet sand and polish like paint.

I've also done simple Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. That dries really flat for a rattle can.

There's another clear that many are using lately. Wish I could remember the name of of it. 2K or something.

[eric113]

I've done it a bunch of ways. The one I'm working on right now has already been surface soaked with West System special clear. I mix it and add some 99% pure rubbing alcohol to thin it out. Gets watery. Pain that on. Let it sit a little bit. Then wipe it down with a clean piece of cotton. Think tee shirt scrap. Let that cure. Last step for me will be Klasskote Clear Urethane. Adds weight but who cares really? Nice thing about the Klasskote is that I can wet sand and polish like paint.

I've also done simple Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. That dries really flat for a rattle can.

There's another clear that many are using lately. Wish I could remember the name of of it. 2K or something.

The spraymax 2k clear coat? You can get it off Amazon.
Wish I could say I like it, really have to prep it good to get it stick. but hatch tape will pull it up. I’m gonna lean towards the west marine and klasskote.

[Shooter]

Can't go wrong with KK. I just sealed mine with west systems as well. I usually rub it into the wood with my hands (wearing rubber gloves). I don't even know if it's necessary to be honest since I'm painting with KK, but that's how I've always done it.

[T.S.Davis]

I had trouble with automotive paint coming up with tape. I can NOT guarantee it wasn't from my lack of experience though. The Klasskote stuff forget it. There's no way that's coming off. Especially if you use their primer too. You don't have to clear it necessarily. I usually don't clear over colors. They're race boats.

I'm weird about my boats. I want them to look nice but I also don't ever want to be so attached to them that I wont beat the b'geezus out of them. If it's too sweet............who am I kidding? I'm still racing it. I should just say "goodbye my friend" to every boat I throw in the water. hahaha

[Shooter]

This has to be the utmost in propellor badassery. A 441 3 blade. Stainless steel. You could shave with this thing.

[Jesse J]

Ouch, cut myself looking at it!
Where did you get such badassery?

[Shooter]

Here is his website: http://doctorprops.torgg.com/collect...serie-saw-v900

My prop was actually a 941, not a 441. He has a huge variety though. I could see myself spending a lot of money there, quick.

[Shooter]

I glassed in the stuffing tube and epoxied the floor. Wife told me not to stir the epoxy so fast.....it will create air bubbles. . I'm thinking, "what does she know about this stuff?? I'm like some sort of professional here....", lol. So, I stirred it slowly and sure as can be, the floor is flawless. Crystal clear without air bubbles. After many years, I'm starting to realize that I need to start listening to her for pretty much everything.

[Jesse J]

Why do you use aluminum for the motor plate rather than cf?