ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

[sammyha]

With both booms in place, both sides are square...

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[sammyha]

And here you can see they are running together. Actually the right ride pad has the slightly steeper angle Mike designed into it...

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[sammyha]

You can see the steeper angle here too. It's running a tiny bit off the counter at the front of the ride pad...

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[sammyha]

For the first time builder...

CHECK THIS BEFORE YOU EPOXY THEM IN!

It would have been be so easy to file the side of the hole to align them.

And next time, I think I would epoxy them in and assemble the sponsons together with the booms in place while they cure.

In hindsight, I was totally depending on the sponsons coming out perfectly square to set up this sponson tube alignment.

And the sponsons are such strong assemblies, the booms would twist the tub.

I also notice the booms slide together easier now! 🧐

I bet the experienced builders are saying "Uh huh... you better check them before you epoxy them in place" right about now...

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[sammyha]

Figuring out my colors scheme. Can you picture it?

Not sure if I can pull off the CF inlays. Got an idea tho. Could substitute with black & white checkoring.

I always seem to get myself into too much work. 🤨

I developed this over a week or more. Pondering it on and off. The sketches really helps me...



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[oldbikerarlo]

Really busy, to me but it is your project.
I have seen a CF effect done with window screen, using dark gray, as a base and a lighter gray, sprayed through the screen. It looked real close.

[sammyha]

Maybe it's the three views crammed on a piece of 8-1/2 x 11 sheet. I'll lay out the white and orange on the tub next. And what's staying natural.

I've also learned to keep myself open to change. We'll see what I end up with... [emoji848]

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[785boats]

What a pain with the boom tube inserts.
I know it is a bit late now, but post *4 in my build of the RSX310 rigger explains how I aligned the inserts.
It could work for you if you build another rigger.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ger&highlight=

[sammyha]

What a pain with the boom tube inserts.
I know it is a bit late now, but post *4 in my build of the RSX310 rigger explains how I aligned the inserts.
It could work for you if you build another rigger.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ger&highlight=

It's a shame I didn't find your thread before. I'll read this thru to see what else I can learn.

Yes, spot on, that's a good way to establish that alignment. It must be done, no question. At least I got mine right(the hard way!) Thanks

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[785boats]

I'm sorry, I thought I posted a link to the build earlier in your thread. But apparently not.
You've done a great job on your build.
I've just read through the section on the strut. Please don't glue the floating bush into the strut as it is shown on the drawing. It is meant to float in the strut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=XSAaeknjTxk

[sammyha]

I'm sorry, I thought I posted a link to the build earlier in your thread. But apparently not.
You've done a great job on your build.
I've just read through the section on the strut. Please don't glue the floating bush into the strut as it is shown on the drawing. It is meant to float in the strut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=XSAaeknjTxk

More good info a first time builder needs to know.

So I loctited mine in, but only used a tiny bit. On the back end, only around that short flange diameter that fits the strut ID. It would be easy to heat, remove and clean the loctite off it.

Here's my question tho. With the normal 3-5mm gap to the strut dog, what keeps the bushing from walking out of the strut?

That's a poor design imo...

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[martin]

Nothing stops the floating bush from floating in the 3-5mm gap, the idea of floating bushes is to reduce the rpm of the shaft against a fixed bush. With a fixed bush & say a shaft that is turning @ 35000rpm the wear on the shaft & bush if much higher than the floating bush design where ideally the bush would spin @ say half that speed in the strut which means the rpm of the shaft in the floating bush is also reduced. They dont normally spin together @ those rates but gives you some idea behind the floating bush design. This is why the bush must spin freely when using floating bushes, you also get a longer bearing area than 2 separate fixed bushing.

[sammyha]

Nothing stops the floating bush from floating in the 3-5mm gap, the idea of floating bushes is to reduce the rpm of the shaft against a fixed bush. With a fixed bush & say a shaft that is turning @ 35000rpm the wear on the shaft & bush if much higher than the floating bush design where ideally the bush would spin @ say half that speed in the strut which means the rpm of the shaft in the floating bush is also reduced. They dont normally spin together @ those rates but gives you some idea behind the floating bush design. This is why the bush must spin freely when using floating bushes, you also get a longer bearing area than 2 separate fixed bushing.

Thanks for your feedback. I take back my poor design comment. That makes sense.

Still, I would like to see the length of the large diameter on the bushing longer than the strut gap. Or a retaining cap on the end of the strut...



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[sammyha]

785boats, I read your thread. Well done, very informative. Here's something you mention that's not in the manual. Trimming the rear ride pad flush to the outside non trip sheet on the left sponson.

I left a slight overhang on both sponsons. Nice and even and pretty. But wrong...

Boy, I'll bet the rear ride pad overhang on the left sponson would cause some serious inexplicable over steer, would possibly even flip the rigger turning right!

No problem to address that, it's left natural so I'll trim it flush...



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[785boats]

It shouldn't trip, as there is a slight dihedral angle to the left ridepad. I'm pretty sure that Mike left the overhang on the left sponson on his prototype.
I just removed it on mine because that's what I do on all my hydros. No need to remove it if you don't want to.

As for the floating bush, don't forget that the reason we leave a gap between the drive dog & the strut is for the shortening of the flex under load. So when running, the gap is much less, so the bushing doesn't move out as much as you think.
Rest assured, the floating bush set up is a tried & true system. It's used by many boaters around the world, in electric, gas & nitro. They work well and last a long time.