ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

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  • sammyha
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2018
    • 1036

    #1

    ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

    Wow! What a beautiful design and quality kit! Can this rigger break the triple digit mark? What motor/ esc combo should I run? Do I go with 6s or 8s? What color scheme do I want for this boat?

    First a big shout out to cybercrxt for the labor of love that keeps ML Boatworks relevant. I have some desire pass it on in our hobby, but not to his level of unselfishness. Incredible! Thank you Mike!

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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 11:51 AM.
  • sammyha
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2018
    • 1036

    #2
    Living in northern Wisconsin makes traveling to club events a bit impractical.

    So...this is going to be a rigger build for SAW speed runs.

    From a boating newcomer's perspective.


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    Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 11:53 AM.

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    • sammyha
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jul 2018
      • 1036

      #3
      Since there are already build threads done on Mike's riggers, this will be a build thread from my perspective of having a RTR and now what do I need to learn to put together a FE rigger kit?

      I've started gluing some wood together...

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      Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 11:58 AM.

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      • sammyha
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jul 2018
        • 1036

        #4
        So even with airplane building experience, the questions begin... I used medium CA to join the bottom, sides and formers. Then weighted it down overnight.

        Now I'm adding the 3/16" corner strips. The interlocked formers hold very well, but the bottom is butted to the sides. I didn't like the brittle cracking sounds it makes when I fit the strips in the corners. And I did not use accelerator. So I'm epoxying the corner strips in.

        This takes longer, but will be much stronger.

        Is this overkill?

        I read the whole manual, the bottom does get covered with carbon fiber. I just think rough water would pop the bottom corners loose...



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        • Raydee
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2007
          • 1603

          #5
          Going to watch this one, I was thinking about buying one of these over the winter. The only difference for me is I have no interest in SAW running but I haven't seen many videos of the 38" running oval.

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          Last edited by Raydee; 10-07-2018, 10:07 AM.
          Team Liquid Dash

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          • jim82
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jan 2013
            • 1358

            #6
            Originally posted by sammyha
            So even with airplane building experience, the questions begin... I used medium CA to join the bottom, sides and formers. Then weighted it down overnight.

            Now I'm adding the 3/16" corner strips. The interlocked formers hold very well, but the bottom is butted to the sides. I didn't like the brittle cracking sounds it makes when I fit the strips in the corners. And I did not use accelerator. So I'm epoxying the corner strips in.

            This takes longer, but will be much stronger.

            Is this overkill?

            I read the whole manual, the bottom does get covered with carbon fiber. I just think rough water would pop the bottom corners loose...



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            Nothing wrong with that I use tite bond 3

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            • bhorowitz
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2015
              • 109

              #7
              I would use epoxy on all the joints. Way stronger then CA.

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              • sammyha
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jul 2018
                • 1036

                #8
                Interesting bhorowitz... Any tips on how you do that? Five minute epoxy? How do you not turn that into a big mess? Just takes longer, or do you have a way to make decent progress? Because there's a lot of length in glue joints to cover...

                Also, I'm looking right now at the upper 3/16" strips and wondering how can I epoxy them on and maintain the bend until the epoxy sets? Clamps?

                Appreciate the input guys. The tite bond 3 is like carpenter's glue, right Jim82? Very strong. Again has a longer setup time than CA. So same questions for that...
                .

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                Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 11:59 AM.

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                • sammyha
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2018
                  • 1036

                  #9
                  I've built airplane fuselages that were lite plywood with thin CA. Goes fast, just keep soaking it in until the joints are full. That structure has the same "brittle" sound. But after shrinking the covering it becomes quite strong in the airplane world.

                  But with a boat impacting waves, it seems real iffy. I'm happy with the strips epoxied into the bottom corners. I certainly feel like I want to epoxy the top strips and the top itself. Be much more difficult to coat inside the upper corners with epoxy after the top deck is on.

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                  Last edited by sammyha; 10-13-2018, 03:09 PM.

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                  • sammyha
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Jul 2018
                    • 1036

                    #10
                    Figuring it out. Applying epoxy with a small screwdriver. It's getting fun now...

                    I won this clamp and aluminum angle "kit" someone put together for a prize at an airplane fun fly years ago. Who would of thought that years later I'd be pulling it out for this!

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                    Last edited by sammyha; 11-21-2018, 04:18 PM.

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                    • sammyha
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jul 2018
                      • 1036

                      #11
                      Checking for squareness. Weights on the inside, no need to pin it down on my model bench at this point...

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                      • bhorowitz
                        Senior Member
                        • Jun 2015
                        • 109

                        #12
                        Looks like you've got it figured out pretty well. You can also flow epoxy in with a small acid brush bent to get in under the deck. Sometimes I'll tack things together with CA and then go back over the joints with epoxy.

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                        • sammyha
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jul 2018
                          • 1036

                          #13
                          Good stuff...

                          Just takes time, and what's the hurry? Got all winter.

                          I cut this strip slightly long, it almost holds the bend by itself. Lots of clamps at the bend. Tends to want to creep until the epoxy sets.

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                          Last edited by sammyha; 10-30-2018, 12:15 PM.

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                          • Luck as a Constant
                            Make Total Destroy
                            • Mar 2014
                            • 1952

                            #14
                            Lookin good. I used weights, tape, rubber bands, or clamps to hold things down. Whatever it takes.
                            Remember that the tub really won’t take the beating on the water. Your boat will ride on the sponsons and prop mostly. The tub is just a place to hold your electronics etc... doesn’t hurt to overbuild it however👍🏼
                            There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

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                            • sammyha
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Jul 2018
                              • 1036

                              #15
                              Right. Yeah, I don't think this is a weight issue. I'm applying the epoxy judiciously with a small screwdriver. Love the thought of epoxy strength in the corners.

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                              Last edited by sammyha; 10-19-2018, 03:15 PM.

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