ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

[sammyha]

This comes back out too, I have to epoxy the inside of the tub and sand the outside before epoxy.

I have a thrust bearing between the coupler and the motor plate, a prop saver and the 7/32" stuffing tube can be seen inside the 1/4" tubing that's epoxied in the boat.

The drive train is complete...

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[sammyha]

Doing a bit more with the running hardware.

I fabricated a carbon fiber servo tray from a plate I bought from OSE.

I found it cuts clean holding it over the edge of the counter and drawing a new fine tooth hacksaw(24 tpi) by the end opposite the handle. Just make smooth, slow, full length strokes.

I'll roll some pictures...

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[sammyha]

Centering the servo for hole lay out...

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[sammyha]

I had some 1/16" thick stainless, cut four strips. Servo is bolted on, the hexes on the locknuts are lined up straight...

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[sammyha]

Epoxying the stainless steel strips so they are butted tight to the locknut hexes...

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[sammyha]

Epoxying the side stand off pieces on.

I figure the locknuts are captured in the epoxy, with what basically amounts to a wrench on them so they can't turn...



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[sammyha]

Here's the servo tray dry fitted in the boat...

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[rol243]

very neat build but remember to try and keep the weight down. the rear compartment looks weighty.

[sammyha]

Thanks for the comments and advice.

Here's the weight of my servo tray.

Second picture is the weight of the two GPS units I put in the same place(all the way back) in my Pro Boat UL-19.

Never gave it a thought. I suppose I tested and trimmed the UL-19 with all that weight in there. Hmmn...

Btw, for us Americans who don't know grams, the conversation is 1.09 ounces(servo tray) and 4.05 ounces(GPS units).

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[sammyha]

Finishing up the running hardware, making a linkage rod and water seal.

The first picture shows the offset linkage rod needed in my setup.

The second picture shows the height of the transom hole.

With my servo tray height(5/16"), a straight linkage rod lines up with the center of the servo output shaft.

Here's a sketch of how I made the linkage, by modifying a heli method for making stiff linkage rods and keeping them light...


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[sammyha]

A shot of the linkage and the thru hull nipple I made. For the nipple, I spun a short piece of aluminum tubing in a drill and filed the angles.



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[sammyha]

I had ordered large radio box grommets for the length.

But the diameter was too big to fit thru the rudder bracket.

I only used the rubber boot.

The struggle is real...

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[sammyha]

very neat build but remember to try and keep the weight down. the rear compartment looks weighty.

I am trying to keep it light in the rear. I have a servo mount(1.05 oz.), a servo, and a layer of carbon fiber with two coats of epoxy back there.

If I may ask, what are you seeing to say the rear compartment looks weighty?

Here's an OSE mount I'm using for the Swordfish X 200 amp ESC. It's where I got the idea for making my servo mount.

This is weighs 62.5 grams/ 2.2 ounces.


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[sammyha]

So...

I'm a detail guy and I enjoy having technical discussions. I prefer substance versus shallow. Shallow is too vanilla for me.

I make no apologies for this. I also know there are others that think the same way.

Here's my center of gravity setup. It actually works well balancing the boat on this 1/4" wide spruce strip. It's stable. But sensitive enough...

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[sammyha]

I have all the major components in there.

But, that's with a pair of 3s lipos. I'll be running a pair of 4s, I don't have them yet to check balance with them.

It balances level at 1.7" high off the counter. The balance point is very close to the back edge of the turn fin.

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