My new 34" mono build

[dmitry100]

Some nice hatch bolts I got off of ebay ... Just received some of each type just the other day (I'd prefer the first one... lots more grip space, but that depends on your preference and size of boat):

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151506903934...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161513489812...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I plan on using these to use as thread inserts:
1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261920696526...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2. These can work too I think: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261611904720...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I got a bit of both of these types. Link #1 seem to be more suitable for the job I think because the wall is thinner and it would need a smaller hole compared to the Link #2 thread inserts... especially good if say you have limited area/space to place these thread inserts like I do.

[kfxguy]

Thanks for the entire post and awesome build..... A question is where did you get the CF tube on eBay.. I am starting a build on a 26" DF mono what size tube should I use for the flood tube. First build from scratch. Thanks

I just searched for carbon fiber tube and decided what size I needed.

[dmitry100]

kfxguy: have you ever compared performance between typical bushing bearings and ball bearings before? I'm tempted to do a side by side test comparison once I get my new china stingers in. I'm always getting mixed answers-- got an answer from MHZ saying "ball bearings for drives is technical nonsense. Ball bearings do have a ball of approx. 0.6-0,7mm diameter - 50.000 or 60.000 rpm and the ball wont last since the max. rpm is more than 10 times as high as it should be. " when I asked if their HS drives have ball bearings. lol. I dunno though... the boca bearings I got are rated at 70-80k rpm.

[z400]

Any one of you crazies want BeastMode's older brother?

Or wicked sister i should probably say..




That would actually be cool Trav..
Maybe i'll get some stickers cut that says " BeastMode's Wicked Sister"
ha!

[kfxguy]

kfxguy: have you ever compared performance between typical bushing bearings and ball bearings before? I'm tempted to do a side by side test comparison once I get my new china stingers in. I'm always getting mixed answers-- got an answer from MHZ saying "ball bearings for drives is technical nonsense. Ball bearings do have a ball of approx. 0.6-0,7mm diameter - 50.000 or 60.000 rpm and the ball wont last since the max. rpm is more than 10 times as high as it should be. " when I asked if their HS drives have ball bearings. lol. I dunno though... the boca bearings I got are rated at 70-80k rpm.

Do I think the help with speed? Possibly. If your shaft is out of lube and it's tearing the bushing up (seen it happen) then in that situation the bearings have a clear advantage. If the bushing is well lubed then probably not. But here's why I do it. Several reasons.

1) allows a more accurate fit between the shaft and bearing. It eliminates side to side movement. So the prop is more inline. Advantage I think. Note: you must make sure the shaft can freely slide through the bearings. If not it will loosen the bearings because of shaft shrinkage. I size the stud shaft down a little with it chucked in a drill and 400 grit sand paper.
2) lessens the amount of water that would travel up the flex because of the more accurate fit.
3) cuts down on bushing replacement and maintenance. If I forget to lube the shaft it won't eat it up.
4) quieter. Not a big deal but it sounds smoother.

I haven't had to change any bearings yet. The ones I buy are rated for 60k rpm so no problem there.

They get done on 95% of my builds.

Tip: you must use at least 5 of them stacked or the side to side forces will cause them to become short lived. It's also more support for the shaft which is good. In short, if I didn't think they were worth it, then I wouldn't bother. It's a bit more work to do as I have to setup my lathe to do it. Don't think your going to be able to drill by hand either.

[kfxguy]

Guess I'll give a little update to this thread. I ordered a custom made carbon fiber hatch for it because the crack bothered me. The thing cost me like $140 lol. Then upon further inspection I found that the Seam had cracked about 6"-8" down each side. I ran the carbon inlay higher than the seam but I guess it just wasn't enough to hold at 80+mph flip. The reason it glitched is unknown but the 1530 neu motor I put in it was sent to me by mistake and ended up being 2900kv. Neu took care of it and sent me the correct motor but I had lost interest in a cracked boat. I had thoughts on sporting it at lower speeds but that's not why I built it. I reinforced the heck out of it but never felt like fixing the crack. Painting isn't my thing although I did a very nice job on this one. I could not sell it without fixing it correctly so I ended up giving the hull and hardware to my buddy for his birthday. I ended up doing a deal and getting another brand new hull and hardware so I'll be building a new improved version soon. (Carbon hatch will be on the new one) Yes it will be that green. I love it! (Sorry for the repeat info as I mentioned this in another build thread if you saw it)


I did this to cover the cracks