MHZ 114 High End Build

[nata2run]

Here is the jig against the hull

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[nata2run]

A few more to show the enter/exit hole, and the very clean alignment of the drive housing

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[TheShaddix]

Awesome, man! Very professional work there. Even the masking tape trick alone is a great one to take from this thread. Never thought of doing that, makes a lot of sense to layer it up to keep the gelcoat from cracking.

[nata2run]

Awesome, man! Very professional work there. Even the masking tape trick alone is a great one to take from this thread. Never thought of doing that, makes a lot of sense to layer it up to keep the gelcoat from cracking.

Thank you, to give you an idea of how I mask and cut cf plate chek one of my videos http://youtu.be/9EZyOlME6xg (my attempt of fancy editing lol) it just shows that it's a habit for me to mask everything I cut to avoid burr and get a cleaner cut.

[Steve Dean]

Wow Kent, this is like deja-vu. It's like watching my own MHZ Mystic 114 coming together. I have been taking photo's of every stage just like you. I'll have to get round to starting a build thread. Then folks can watch how are builds are progressing and see how we diverge when it comes to the internal fit out.
People maybe interested to know that my component list is a little different:

Motors: LMT 2240/8
ESC's: MGM 28026-3 X2 Series Pro

The rest is pretty much the same with the motor mounts heading towards me from Custom Carbon Fiber Parts in OZ. Kent made them for me with a little visual design feature …….. all will be revealed later !!!
I'll keep you'll posted as things progress.

[nata2run]

Hey Steve,
You should do a thread! would be interesting to see what you have come up with, I'm sure it would look great!

Ok, back to the build. I am forever trying to find the best way to get the drives aligned. This may not be the easiest or best way, but its so far the most accurate way I can think of. The ole "drill bit trick from Manuel W. still tops it off as a final alignment" But the "drive hold down's" are still made in a way on the MHZ's that make it complicated to place on the hull and use as a template. For that reason I made my own block that can sit flush on the hull and allow me to drill the 4 holes to hold it down further.
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[nata2run]

Here are all the blocks used...

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After everything was aligned and the 4 holes were drilled, I used the 2nd block as a drill guide. This block was stuck down with double sided tape and also the 4 screws through the block. ( I didn't bolt down the block, just used to screws to hold the block in place)

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[nata2run]

When all secured, I just drilled the hole with a 14.5mm NEW drill bit. I'm quite happy with the result.

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[Pheyd]

Just wow, this build is looking very clean and I like it! Can't wait to see this cat come alive.

[nata2run]

I'm finding less and less time to post and upload pictures of this build. But I thought I'd keep you in the loop of whats going on. I had to completely redesign the motor mounts for this particular build, as I want to use CF veneer for decor also. I have so far made 3 different versions and not 100% happy but good news is, I think I got it!! once installed, I will post some photos. After that stage she will go straight to the painters....

[TheShaddix]

Kent, do you take the hardware off when you send it to the painters?

I'm also building an mhz 114. Does your rudder bracket fit onto the hull? Mine doesn't want to slide into the cut-out area which seems to have too much gel coat. What do you recommend to shave off some of the material precisely?

[royalcasa]

You must be a tool maker or mold maker by trade, I used to be one. Fantastic work my friend.
Best Regards.

[nata2run]

Kent, do you take the hardware off when you send it to the painters?

I'm also building an mhz 114. Does your rudder bracket fit onto the hull? Mine doesn't want to slide into the cut-out area which seems to have too much gel coat. What do you recommend to shave off some of the material precisely?

I only install the whole drive train and rudder, then I strip it all and send off for paint. Water Pickups, exit tubes I drill and install after the painting is done. I don't like the look of paint over predrilled holes, they tend to look egg shaped or become smaller then what they were suppose to be. If you then have to open up the hole, its more likely to chip. Regarding the rudder, it fits really bad, not bad but tight! fit and drill it while its tight, then file a bit on the hull to make it slide in better. You will most likely chip a little paint once you install it. Its one of those things, hard to tell how thick the paint is going to be, so very hard to judge

[nata2run]

You must be a tool maker or mold maker by trade, I used to be one. Fantastic work my friend.
Best Regards.

Thanks for the compliments! No, not a tool or mold maker, but a graphic designer and graphics instructor for the past 20 years. Not teaching anymore thou, but have my own visual display/sign shop as an everyday occupation. I guess if I can think of it, I can make it :)

[nata2run]

Got a bit more work done the other night. Instead of using just plain washers where the drives mount to the hull, I decided to install a support plate. It's commonly used in builds like this, but I haven't done my builds this way prior. The reason why I'm using it this time around is because I really want some support on the stuffing tube in that end. I think it came out nice and serves the purpose. I also got the motor mounts cut and will be posting the update a little later when I complete the inlay.

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