fightercat daytona build

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 01:01 PM

Would fludding the transom be enough fir reinforcment or would a cf plate with epixy be better?

**kfxguy** · 01-09-2015, 01:29 PM

I make a plate for the rudder mount area out of carbon fiber. Drop it down in that area...but make sure you rough it up (wearing a mask) and put a little epoxy in there before dropping it in place. Then I flood with epoxy and chopped cf. You will likely need longer screws. I also, when I flood it, tilt the boat from side to side and let the epoxy flow around in the rear seam area. I've found pin hole leaks in that area. Make sure you tape the seam from the outside to because if there is a pin hole, the epoxy will run out of it and all onto the side of your boat. I tape the whole hull up anyway when I'm building it.

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 01:32 PM

Ok cool

**RandyatBBY** · 01-09-2015, 01:55 PM

Sorry if I muddied the water. I was just saying what I had done with one of my boats and that motor. The Scat Cat 32 is a wide tunnel boat with small ride pads and lots of dihedral. How it rides is a little differant than the narrow fightercat boat. sorry if I caused any problems.

**kfxguy** · 01-09-2015, 02:23 PM

Originally posted by RandyatBBY

Sorry if I muddied the water. I was just saying what I had done with one of my boats and that motor. The Scat Cat 32 is a wide tunnel boat with small ride pads and lots of dihedral. How it rides is a little differant than the narrow fightercat boat. sorry if I caused any problems.

Your good man, I figured you weren't taking that skinny hull in consideration. Us non-driving speed demons (mean guys like us that can't go around an oval course for squat!) Go about it in a different way. Killers rpm for short blasts. Seems to work well. Now....like I said, if I were building a racing boat (or helping the op build one) I defiantly wouldn't be recommending 40k plus rpms. Heck, if he were building a round round boat....I wouldn't be recommending anything at all! Lol. That I have no experience in.

**TheShaddix** · 01-09-2015, 02:43 PM

You might want to consider getting some thicker (and longer) bolts for the rudder as those thin ones tend to break, especially now that they will be the weakest point in your rudder setup, and the times it snaps is not when the rudder hits anything like ground, it's when the rudder hits water in a crash just the right way to cause it to rotate around the base (had that happen on another boat). Just a suggestion. And I have also done what was suggested above with chopped up carbon fiber, milled fiberglass, and epoxy, and then flooded the transom.

As far as prop size, a buddy of mine is running his on 42mm. When he runs anything larger, it heats things up and there isn't any noticeable difference in speed. And I really think a twin setup for this hull is a must if you really want to enjoy it as, by design, it was meant to have two props to counter the roll. But people go single due to budget reasons and ease of use, then complain about the hull being too narrow when it's actually perfectly sized like the real mystic.

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 02:50 PM

Can i get the longer bolts at a hardware store like homedepot or lowes or iwould i have to order them?

**TheShaddix** · 01-09-2015, 02:52 PM

Ace hardware will have what you need, that's the best store for hardware of any sort as far as I know. Bring your factory bolts for reference though. But make sure you get stainless. Then just drill larger holes in the bracket.

**kfxguy** · 01-09-2015, 02:56 PM

Originally posted by TheShaddix

You might want to consider getting some thicker (and longer) bolts for the rudder as those thin ones tend to break, especially now that they will be the weakest point in your rudder setup, and the times it snaps is not when the rudder hits anything like ground, it's when the rudder hits water in a crash just the right way to cause it to rotate around the base (had that happen on another boat). Just a suggestion. And I have also done what was suggested above with chopped up carbon fiber, milled fiberglass, and epoxy, and then flooded the transom.

As far as prop size, a buddy of mine is running his on 42mm. When he runs anything larger, it heats things up and there isn't any noticeable difference in speed. And I really think a twin setup for this hull is a must if you really want to enjoy it as, by design, it was meant to have two props to counter the roll. But people go single due to budget reasons and ease of use, then complain about the hull being too narrow when it's actually perfectly sized like the real mystic.

Shaddix.....wouldn't you actually want the bolts to break before the hull does? Bolts are cheap, hull and rebuilding the boat isn't. Just my humble opinion.

We will find out on the prop soon but I think an M645 will be the ticket on this hull too just as it is on my little rivercat. I'm tuning one in as he's building one and I'm helping him in whatever experience I gain with this hull.

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 03:01 PM

Ya kfxguy you have been a great help on my build. Ill stop by to ace on the way home, and get some bigger bolt. Theirs alot of seaweed were i live so i think i will keep the break away bult

**Make-a-Wake** · 01-09-2015, 04:17 PM

You can use brass bolts on the transom hardware if you are real paranoid about stuff having breakaway ability, otherwise standard bolts are good in stainless as mentioned. Your rudder has a breakaway bolt anyways, it should be brass or nylon.

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 06:34 PM

Ya its nylon

**TheShaddix** · 01-09-2015, 06:34 PM

I don't think anything should break off the boat: not the hull, not the hardware. The hull should be reinforced to the point where it cannot break just from water impacts. The rudder should tilt backwards for sure, but if the worst happens and he does hit it hard in a crash, then the blade will bend sideways while the bracket stays intact, or not bend at all and withstand the impact, which is ideal. That's what happened to mine - the blade bent sideways and i just re-bent it. I don't have a breakaway bolt in my rudder, I think it's redundant. Just tighten the clamp better so the rudder is tight but is able to tilt. There are times when you put/throw the boat in the water and the rudder hits ground, it should be able to safely tilt backwards without any stress. Especially if you have sea weed, your boat will just get stuck, but if the rudder can tilt back, you can just throttle it out of there and bring it back to shore. And you should always remove the rudder and props when you transport the boat, so the less bolts to remove, the better.

**dude123** · 01-09-2015, 06:47 PM

That is true thanks for the info! Have any of you had any experience with the off shore electrics auto ballers i was thinkin of getting them in case some water gets in the boat but just wondering if it is really worth the money?

**TheShaddix** · 01-09-2015, 07:05 PM

should not rely on those. To keep the water out make sure you grease the tube after every run between charges, periodically check the tube attachment points for cracks, ensure that you're running proper cables (rotating in the right direction so the water is "screwed" out of the tube), and always seal the hatch with tape and then run your finger on it so it sticks better. If you do all this, you should have 0 water inside after each run. And try this grease called "blue goo", it's seriously the best i've ever used. Super thick, doesn't wash off as easily as pro boat or anything else. http://rcboatparts.com/supplies.html

fightercat daytona build

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