R-42 Twin Beast

**srislash** · 11-12-2014, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by Rocstar

Looking good Shawn.

Add some extra caps to those controllers. Mine get pretty hot when pushed hard. I added a few to help out.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]123639[/ATTACH]

Thanks Joel, I am planning to read over Doc's thread on caps and put what is best suited on. I am not sure if I will go for much top end with this one. Ahh, who am I kidding.

**olwarbirds** · 11-12-2014, 11:57 PM

Shawn, Doc and I did alot of discussion about "SAW" setup capbanks compared to heat racing capbanks... you could build one to handle both esc's, that depends on how your powering the esc's one lipo to each esc or wiring both esc's to share the pwr supply.. for one pwr supply (lipo) to each esc then a 2x4 series and para using these caps http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...478-ND/3134434 if your going to share the pwr supply then a 2x6-8 series/para was suggested...from what I understood the 470uf caps would respond faster than the 1000uf and be a more efficient/effective setup... I am currently building capbanks using 470uf and 1000uf, I am planning on testing and comparing results via my logger...if your not in a rush, soon as I do get them built I could send you a couple to try.... DJ

**srislash** · 11-13-2014, 01:03 PM

Yeah DJ, I was paying attention over there, I think the 470's would be the ticket for me too. But I will discuss with Wayne most likely.

**srislash** · 11-13-2014, 01:17 PM

I love my cozy little hobby room out in the garage. It has gotton cold and windy here in Vancouver, -temps for sure.

So yesterday I got my mounts rough cut out.

This morn I woke up all fresh and eager and got the motor holes drilled and the mating surface of mounts tapered.

That front half one will be the support for the non working end of the motor. I will put a half round in it and cinch down the motor with stainless wire(or so goes the current plan)

Now this was new to me! My first 1/4' drive setup and the stuffing tube runs through the strut. It has to to support the bushing. This plays well into my original flood tube plan which will utilize a Du Bro rubber bellow as a seal going around the CF tube and then around the stuffing tube. Lots of setup in this area

In order for the tube to go thru the strut it had to visit the sanding belt and some wet 400grit. All this occurred after the bend was put into the tube using the old 'sand in tube trick'. Here is my bend:

**srislash** · 11-13-2014, 01:21 PM

So do you experienced guys think that that 125oz/in Savox will be adequate for this hull or should I get something more substantial?

**olwarbirds** · 11-13-2014, 01:31 PM

Shawn, thats lookn good brother. I definately would go with something with more torque. I been using the Savox for a good while now, for this hull I think the SW-0231mg would be a good choice...been using them in my larger hulls with no probs... DJ

**srislash** · 11-15-2014, 12:35 PM

I got the main mounts in. First I lined them up with the strut at about where I feel Neutral Depth will be. Used corresponding tubes inside the collet, a spacer one and into the stuffing tube. Then drizzled a little epoxy on and around the mount to get it tacked:

Then last night I put some cloth on the joint for strength,

I will clean up any loose fibres when all is done in this area.

This morning I got the forward supports fitted. I am still thinking of running a stainless wire around the motor to this support plate. This will lock it in.

Once I was done with fitting those I moved on to the front tube supports which I am going to make adjustable. I feel I kinda need to and it will facilitate FULL tube removal at a later date.

So I am going about this flood tube thing a slightly different way than others have. Because the stuffing tube runs thru the strut that makes the rear support, it will run thru my CF tube and to this forward support. Comments here are welcome especially if it is felt I am doing something tragic.

**Fluid** · 11-15-2014, 01:13 PM

So do you experienced guys think that that 125oz/in Savox will be adequate for this hull or should I get something more substantial?

Use nothing less than 200 oz/in of torque at 6.0 volts, better overkill than loss of control. I strongly recommend a digital servo, and there is nothing wrong with a quarter scale servo either. They have larger gears than standard size and are often cheaper than comparable standard servos.

I learned the the lesson the hard way....one big cat with a quarter scale servo was almost uncontrollable when given WOT rapidly, it would hook terribly. Same thing happened randomly in corners. It is zero fun driving a boat with this type of control issue, and racing is impossible. Just replacing the standard servo with a digital servo (same torque) solved the problems permanently. Now I use HiTec 5765MH servos in my big 10S boats.

.

**srislash** · 11-15-2014, 01:48 PM

Thanks Jay, I think I have one of my 277oz/in left.

**srislash** · 11-15-2014, 05:50 PM

So this is my CF tube and the Dubro rubber bellow that I got from Randy awhile back for the Bling Rocket build, I did find another pack at a LHS

And I made the rest of the stuffing tube support by drilling, threading and shaping a couple small pieces of 4mm CF I had left.

They supports need a little 'tweaking' yet before epoxy. I'll get em in the AM. I will also cut my flood tubes then.

**srislash** · 11-21-2014, 09:28 PM

So this is my tube holder/support. I put a small 2mm bolt in to lock the stuffing tube. This way the tube cannot 'rock' back and forth( I have had this happen on my DF)

And all my supports are now epoxied in and glassed

So next I need to set up my battery homes. I have 4 packs of each 5s 3300mah and 6s 3300mah so I can do 6600mah per side. So this is the layout that I am planning.

This leaves ample room on the rear tunnel for servo, Rx, BEC, GPS/logger.

But is 13,200mah's enough for this beast?

**iridebikes247** · 11-21-2014, 10:40 PM

Hey whats up Shawn, I really like this build. I think the 6600 mah will be great perfect for getting in a lot of laps without running the risk of overheating stuff, although I think this setup could run for a very very long time without heat.

I'm sure you'll experiment with inward/outward spinning props you should be capable of some good speed in and out of the turns.

**Fella1340** · 11-22-2014, 12:53 AM

Looking great! I like the rock solid stuffing tube mount. Should eliminate any flex while the tubes are being moved around at the strut. You definitely got lots of room to play around with. Keep it coming!

**olwarbirds** · 11-22-2014, 10:46 AM

Shawn, nicely done brother. This is how a build should be done. I appreciate you taking the time to take pics and document each step...look forward to seeing this one get wet... DJ

**srislash** · 11-23-2014, 05:09 PM

Originally posted by olwarbirds

Shawn, nicely done brother. This is how a build should be done. I appreciate you taking the time to take pics and document each step...look forward to seeing this one get wet... DJ

Geez, thanks DJ. I am taking my time on this one so it will be a bit before she gets wet. If I go too quick I will have to do the HPR this winter, LOL.

Originally posted by Fella1340

Looking great! I like the rock solid stuffing tube mount. Should eliminate any flex while the tubes are being moved around at the strut. You definitely got lots of room to play around with. Keep it coming!

I got lots of room ONCE my hands are in there. That rail makes it tight but it is essential for the cosmetic look I am hoping to pull off.