Decided to start some upgrades to the Radtek Mystic 25... I found that the carbon strut assembly had too much flex in it, and I also want to be able to run either 1/8" or 3/16" ID props, so I'm going to machine down a Speedmaster 21 strut assembly. Total overkill, but that's what it's all about!
I machined down the brackets to shorten them enough to mount on the transom, which basically involve machining off the existing mounting holes and drilling new ones in the center. I will be machining down the strut next.
Not very exciting to, well, most anyone but me, but a little more progress.
First, I damaged the coupler "well" when I removed the old stuffing tube, so I added a layer of carbon fiber to reinforce that area again. Went ahead and epoxied in the outer sleeve for the stuffing tube as well. I'll slide in another brass tubing that fits over the Teflon for the 1/16" wire.
Turned down an OSE 4mm x 0.098 Coupler to reduce it's OD a tad, and then reamed the .098" out to 0.124". Using 1/16" Stainless Piano-wire driveshafts, and I'm going to place a piece of 1/8" stainless tubing over the coupler end. This will give the coupler a better grip than just using the wire by itself, and hopefully provide better reliability. I wasted at least 5 SAW attempts at the last event due to couplers slipping/failing. Time is too precious at one of these events to lose that time. I'm hoping this will help.
Will have to build the shafts as assemblies now, but not that big a deal. Stubs are formed from 1/8" and then 3/16" Stainless tubing, Loctite 603'd over the shaft. I made a couple different versions, one for 3/16" props, the other will hold 1/8" props. Both will run in 3/16" bushings, so I won't have to swap struts.
Will also be able to swap in a .130" Flex system, if the wire proves to be unreliable.
Waiting for the 1/16" x 1/8" Teflon tubing to show up so I can finish assembling the shafts. If the fit over the wire is as I expect, I may run the teflon a little long, and have it cover the bare wire at least through the bend section. I think this helps to reduce the harmonics and dampens vibration a bit.
looks good. question: what weighs more, the battery or the esc?
I think that battery is still slightly heavier. This hull runs a 2700mAh 2S on each side. The ESC on the left helps the hull to counter torque-Roll... Boat is one of the straightest tracking "fast" boats I've ever driven as it's setup.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I think that battery is still slightly heavier. This hull runs a 2700mAh 2S on each side. The ESC on the left helps the hull to counter torque-Roll... Boat is one of the straightest tracking "fast" boats I've ever driven as it's setup.
Ok. I wasnt aware that you had a battery on each side. where i was going with it was that I was figuring the battery was heavier than the esc and may have been better swapped to the left side....for the reason you mentioned. Youve got it covered tho. I might need to rethink some of my builds and try to concentrate on putting components more towards the left instead of just relying on a heavier battery on the left (4s pack on left and 3s pack on the right).
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
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