The "Bling Rocket" build

[srislash]

Just thought I'd show my how I do my 2P plugs before solder

image.jpg

So got them soldered and onto ESC but my liquid tape has gone hard so I am at a standstill. Performix'd the ESC, mounted antenna, and ran some cooling line. Getting close but we are expecting -9 Celsius this week so may lose open water for a bit.

[rickwess]

Just thought I'd show my how I do my 2P plugs before solder

Hey Shawn. I was going down the same path for my 4s2p build. I had my plugs built and plasti-coated, then came across this pic in a thread........credit to Doug S. It's much cleaner and no worries about extra connectors.

Hydra240 parallel 006.jpg

[stelerzman]

Unless you want to go with a different battery configuration down the road, if this were the case you'd have pull the esc and unsolder, then resolder it all up. I like have the bullets there, one could always solder up an adapter to plug into the esc. JMO.

[rickwess]

Unless you want to go with a different battery configuration down the road, if this were the case you'd have pull the esc and unsolder, then resolder it all up. I like have the bullets there, one could always solder up an adapter to plug into the esc. JMO.

The boat is built for 4s2p so I can't see the battery config changing. Either way works. Like I said, I was well on my way to do the same, until I saw the pic and concluded it was a better approach for me.

[stelerzman]

To each his own, as long as your happy with the end results.

[stelerzman]

I wish I had that much room. But not with this configuration. I had thought of going out on a limb and doing the stinger adjustable but this is my first flood tube and no point in pushing my envelope too far. Hehe

I just had a thought for you, how about a 3/4" pvc cap or plug. Drill out the cap or plug for the stuffing tube inline with the coupler, then epoxy it in place on the inside of the cap. This will insure the stuffing tube stays in alignment with the coupler.
Next would be to get the next size tubing, smaller or larger, and slide the two tubes together. This will give the flexibility your looking for at the strut. This what I did and it seams to work rather well. Have yet to any water in the hull from the flood/stuffing tube set up.

[srislash]

Hey Shawn. I was going down the same path for my 4s2p build. I had my plugs built and plasti-coated, then came across this pic in a thread........credit to Doug S. It's much cleaner and no worries about extra connectors.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]108873[/ATTACH]

I also saw that and it is a good setup. But,,,something that is not said much here is that in electronics wire/connectors are bad. Necessary but points of loss and resistance causing voltage ripples. So I try to cut down on it. I have one inch of wire out of ESC to my plug and 4" to the motor.
I will post a pic tonight.

[lenny]

I also saw that and it is a good setup. But,,,something that is not said much here is that in electronics wire/connectors are bad. Necessary but points of loss and resistance causing voltage ripples. So I try to cut down on it. I have one inch of wire out of ESC to my plug and 4" to the motor.
I will post a pic tonight.

Also on my parallel 5.5 plugs I was just using shrink wrap over them,
But I may try the liquid tape sometime to.

CS33008.jpgCS33009.jpgCS33032.jpgstands 043.jpgstands 044.jpg

[srislash]

Shawn, are you going to seal where the brass tube enters the flood tube with epoxy?

So Joel, here is what I got

image.jpg

The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

[srislash]

The boat is built for 4s2p so I can't see the battery config changing. Either way works. Like I said, I was well on my way to do the same, until I saw the pic and concluded it was a better approach for me.

Or 5s2p, or 6s2p. Here is a pic of what I am talking about

image.jpg

This pic is with the batteries all the way forward.
And yes Lenny that is 6s in there

[rickwess]

Or 5s2p, or 6s2p. Here is a pic of what I am talking about


This pic is with the batteries all the way forward.

I understand. Are you planning on running an external cap bank? I'm curious where you're going to mount the ESC.

[rickwess]

Also on my parallel 5.5 plugs I was just using shrink wrap over them,
But I may try the liquid tape sometime to.

That actually illustrates what I was trying to say. You could eliminate one of your friction connections and be no worse off in terms of wire length.

[srislash]

The ESC is getting mounted right where you see it. Was half thinking of tossing a couple of caps on but I have never had a cap issue yet on 4s.
Caps take care of voltage ripple which is created from long wires. If kept under 8" from battery to ESC one should be good

[lenny]

So Joel, here is what I got

[ATTACH=CONFIG]108906[/ATTACH]

The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

I would let the small piece of tube do the sealing on the flex and stuffing tube,
Than just replace the piece as needed down the line.

[Rocstar]

So Joel, here is what I got
The tube is 1/4 (if) back from collet there. If I leave it like that(picture) it will seal the flex but will it stay? Should right?
I could get the boot back on the tube and squeeze a piece of tube on to the brass to seal the flex. Whatcha think?

Looks like it will work. Only one way to find out.