50" Thunderbolt with twins

[FastVee]

Actually I dont think it was thermal issue on the goldfinger(cant be sure though) I have read somewhere that the lvc on t180 is really "protective" ,-even my friends t180 would just stop the motor on his deltaforce 33 on holeshot accellerations even if the lipos are fully charged, but the cells were low C rating ones and I belive the voltage drops too much on them.

I would disable the lvc anyway cause I never use them in any of my rc´s, much rather use the timer on my radio or buzzer onside the hull to let me know if the cells are getting empty.

Found some 6s 8000mah packs from hk so maybe 2p and 16000mAh would give some runtime...

-Pate

[iridebikes247]

how about a beast motor, http://kershawdesigns.com/BrushlessMotors-SkyRC.htm

That and a swordfish 240 would be 400 bucks. the beast is essentially a 2028 castle and the swordfish 240 is bulletproof on 10s.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YW1rHk1cJA

Above is an mhz kiton with seaking 180 and mhz 4035 scorpion outrunners of 1260kv. pretty powerful if you ask me. hv setups are amazing for powerful boats. I have a 40" 80mph cat and a 54" cat, the 54" weighs 25lbs the 40" 10lbs. the 40" pulls more amps constant than the big 12s boat.

[iridebikes247]

wanted to ask how is the quality of these hulls btw? I kind of want one myself after seeing this thread and do they handle turns as good as a conquest? perhaps bill can answer this or anyone that knows more about it.

[bill34207]

Actually I dont think it was thermal issue on the goldfinger(cant be sure though) I have read somewhere that the lvc on t180 is really "protective" ,-even my friends t180 would just stop the motor on his deltaforce 33 on holeshot accellerations even if the lipos are fully charged, but the cells were low C rating ones and I belive the voltage drops too much on them.
-Pate

I still had the issues with the LVC disabled which is why I think it was a thermal shutdown causing it.

[bill34207]

wanted to ask how is the quality of these hulls btw? I kind of want one myself after seeing this thread and do they handle turns as good as a conquest? perhaps bill can answer this or anyone that knows more about it.

Other than a really rough seam line the quality of the Thunderbolt hull is good and it corners very well. There are photos in my build thread that show the ugly seam line and fixing it. There are quite a few videos in it where you can see it's cornering capabilities as well.
Here's one of my favorites though.

http://youtu.be/-NJumIsc3Jg

[osprey21]

Ole 'Goldie" was one he!! of a boat.

[iridebikes247]

that thing runs awesome i have watched a lot of videos of that boat it seems very controllable.

[bill34207]

That particular video was one of the few times I ran it on 5s 2p. I had seen my buddy's cat run before and knew it wasn't as fast as he thought it was, and wanted to give him a somewhat evenly matched run. It always cornered just as well running on 6s 2p. Somewhere in my jumble of Youtube videos there is footage of it running on the tight 1/8 mile course at Waveblaster's with 6s power but I'm too lazy to go looking for it. :)

[FastVee]

Bill,sorry if I sounded a bit "know it all" , did not remember you disabled the lvc. -maybe it was the bec heating up or did you use rx pack?

-But did you notice anything weird on your hull?

I just looked at the hatch and the windshield is not on the center of the canopy "bubble", and the canopy itself is not centered on the hatch. (the canopy bubble is little on the left side on the hatch looking from behind and the windshield is a bit crooked)

These are not just few mm , the canopy is like 15mm off the center.

These are only cosmetic issues but cant really be fixed without new hatch design. -or maybe this is made like this to fit some specific engine in?

Sorry no pics I left the cam at home.


I will fill the windshield grooves and reposition it but wont cut the canopy off... -just trying to make this thing look the best I can.


I also was thinking that if I would put too much power in it(if there is such a thing as too much power), I would someday flip it and ruin the paint job I have planned .If I want to break speed records I will get smaller cat next.

So it is 530kv and 12s 130a esc or the 1250kv on 6s. 23-30k rpm and 55-60mph that this setup should reliably do. Only thing really I need to think if going hv route or just 6s, will get the same 4x6s lipos anyway since 12s1p and 6s2p are same cell count.

Any thoughts witch route would you guys go?




edit. found this pic of goldie and it has the same issue, so the molds are still the same.

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/6/7/5/1/8/a3640533-103-TB0069.jpg

[bill34207]

Sorry bout the delay getting back. I've been busy playing with toy planes all weekend. :)
No offense taken on the LVC thingy. That was the 1st thing I tried after starting to experience the problem and it didn't help. I had disabled the BEC and was running a RX pack as well. (extra ballast for the nose as it did tend to get a little "floaty" at WOT. At least when I had the props spinning in. Spinning them out took care of that issue).
Good eye on the canopy/hatch. I never even noticed it on mine. Chances are it was done that way to accommodate the exhaust on a gas engine or something since that's what these were originally designed for.
If only looking to get 3 or 4 minutes run time at 50-60 mph 6s will work OK. I could get that with mine and it was right around 60-62 mph at WOT.

[FastVee]

Hey Bill ,if the outward spun props helped with the "bouncing" ,did you ever change the cog after that? -it was about 38% you liked if I remember what I have read earlier from goldie thred at rcgroups?

-just trying to figure where to mount the motors etc, would rather get the lipos in the spring so they would be fresh for next season. We have 6 months of boating in the year over here and another 6 just waiting to puff the lipos...

So I would like to build this ready without the new batteries if I can figure the cog that works without them. -I do have the 6s 5000mah packs but only 2 so i need to build 2 dummy lipos to help with the proper placement of all the stuff...

Would most likely install the lipos in sponsons to lower cg.

So maybe the motors in the last step(closest to transom) so there is plenty of room to move lipos towards front .

And the stingers I have are adjustable lenght, 110 mm long to 130 mm .-l believe these are longer then what you used so that should help with the bouncing also?



-Pate

[bill34207]

I don't think I ever changed the CG after changing the prop rotation. I just ran it until I sold it.
I started at 35% best I recall but did wind up at 38 trying to keep the nose down. Just as a note, I wound up with all 4 6s packs all the way up at the front of the hatch opening (lined across the tunnel floor) trying to get the weight distribution and had my motors mounted in the second step from the rear.

[FastVee]

Thanks, could any1 help with the stingers, I am trying to figure good height for them.

I dont think that flush with the ridepad is good, maybe 2-3mm above like on monos?

I allready installed the rudder, the transom is not really straight/even so I just eyeballed it.

Will need to do the same for stingers, left sponson is on a bit different angle then right one.(looking from rear the left side "opens" abit)
so not really possible to just meseaure it.



Also any idea what is inner dia of stuffing tube that fits 1/4 shaft but no liner?

-I have some tubes with teflon liner but thinking that teflon is just something that the boat does not really need and just one more thing to fail... -or should i just use the tubes i have with teflon? never used the teflon ones.

I cant get the k&s thin wall tubes here but local hardware store does carry thicker walled stuff so if I only knew the correct bore size then I would not need to order it overseas.

[bill34207]

I wound up with the stingers a little lower on mine than I wanted but the overhang will only let you go up so far before getting into the curvature for it.

5/16 thin wall brass is ideal for .250 flex with no liner but if you can't get it there...
I still had a virgin piece of it in my collection of stuff so pulled out my digital caliper and measured it. ID is .282" or 7.17 mm

[FastVee]

Thanks again Bill!

The stingers I have can be mounted over 10mm above the ride pad so plenty of room. Maybe the 2-3mm above the ridepad is good then?


I´ll check the local hardware store next week, hopefully they have something close to that 7.17mm
-Pate