The prop shafts are really long so I needed to make spacers between the props and nuts. -this should not be a problem?
Maiden this weekend if the weather allows.
The boat still collects water inside somehow. I think it is coming from the stuffing tube. Tried to seal it using heat shrink tubing but not much difference. would changing the prop rotation help? now inwards but thinking outwards could help... dunno.
Check your bolts at the back, do a bathtub test and let it sit there dry, you'll see where the water comes in. I had water in mine and it was some of the bolts at the back. Fixed that and only saw a drop or two since then. And when you apply hatch tape, run with your finger along the line so it's pressed in firmly, especially in areas where tape overlaps.
Adding heatshrink tubing to the stuffing tube won't fix anything and it'll only get chewed up after a run anyway. Also check your cooling lines.
TheShaddix, there is no leaks untill full throttle. all the usual places are sealed. if i press the rear under the surface the left stuffing tube leaks a bit from the coupler end. oh,and this wont fit in a tub , had to test this on the sea.
thinking the stingers are to blaim,the stuffing tube cant be installed tightly in them cause the telescoping action has about 5mm room everywhere around the tube and it has to have few mm's off the bushings to work. maybe this is a bit difficult to write,will get a pic when i get the chance.
I think I know what you mean. I use this liquid rubber gasket inside of the stingers that seal the gap between brass tube and stinger opening, yet still allow for some movement to change stinger angle, etc. If it leaks at the stuffing tube ends, then you just need more grease. What is your process of greasing before you put it in water?
TheShaddix, there is no leaks untill full throttle. all the usual places are sealed. if i press the rear under the surface the left stuffing tube leaks a bit from the coupler end. oh,and this wont fit in a tub , had to test this on the sea.
thinking the stingers are to blaim,the stuffing tube cant be installed tightly in them cause the telescoping action has about 5mm room everywhere around the tube and it has to have few mm's off the bushings to work. maybe this is a bit difficult to write,will get a pic when i get the chance.
The stingers can be a tuff place to KEEP sealed, or so goes my experience with my Fantasm. You may also want to check the water lines. You'd be surprised but at speed they may leak. If you have a auto windshield washer pump you can check with a 3s battery and hook it up. Perhaps even a finger over the outlet while it's flowing. I need to do this one as I am having an issue with my AC Boats R-42.
like on all of my boats I have done is taking the flex out,greasing it well. Then I fill the stingers with same marine grease until the bleed hole spits grease. I usually use a piece of silicon tubing at coupler end of stuffing tube,but the teflon lined tube is way too big for that.
I would not use silicone tubing at the collet end. It creates drag and can get caught in between cable and tube and jam your motor, which happened to mine. My process is: grease the cable, insert it, then put grease into the small hole in the stinger, then drop some gear oil into the stuffing tube oiler tube (if you got those) or just directly into the stuffing tube; wipe the end of flex; insert into collet. Ensure hatch tape is fully conformed to surfaces and double it up. I use electric tape from home depot which you can get 10 rolls for 5 bucks. Not a fan of hockey tape as that can rip your clearcoat off. And the only water I get is just a few drops after some runs without it being re-greased, which is normal. But usually never any water after first run. Also, maybe it is the grease you use too. Some are just too thin and get washed out quickly, especially if you run in salt water. I use prather mainly. It's very thick and sticks well, and even after a few runs you can still see it on the cable when you take it out.
Are you still running those outrunners on page 2? If so you can try going up in timing as 15 is usually low with them. But watch your temps. You are running 6s correct?
I was going to add, with those shaft seals: I went thru the bearings quite quickly but I have reinstalled them using better MBP collets and true ing up the shafts a little better. I will run this boat very soon again and see how she goes(and seals/sounds).
After few minutes, the motors were really hot(77c after 3 minutes of cooling,forgot the temp gun to shore). Esc“s cool 37c and lipos 35c
There was some smoke when I opened the hatch,but it looked like burned oil not electricity. visible on video.
The new shaft seals looked a bit burned so bearing update is soon to follow
thinking this needs watercooled motors and bigger props since the escs were cool? motors are salt water dunked few times so they may be going poof soon.
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