bomb proof stuffing tube mount

[Heaving Earth]

There's something to be said about keeping things simple in a way...

[Heaving Earth]

These stingers qaulity is very sub par even comparing to the speed master stingers yet alone some of the german stuff.

Don't like the speed master much?

[ozzie-crawl]

Don't like the speed master much?

Just think even tho the speed master is not expensive it is much better qaulity than the stingers the op is talking about.

[Rumdog]

you sure do a lot of talking about things you haven't even used.. Ive seen pics of those stingers before.. One was destroyed from a wipeout. And, they are most definitely not CNC. If you think youre the first guy on OSE to run the stuffing tube into a stinger, you must be heavily medicated

[Heaving Earth]

Pretty much rumdog sums it up

[iridebikes247]

The drives will work for some time. Honestly dude you need to run a boat with these drives vs 450 $ mbp click drives. No comparison. At all. Horracing isn't a hidden gem those of us that spend 4k on boats are blind to. When will this boat see water. I used to run hor sruff thought it was ok. Then saw a 120mph hpr built by a well respected builder. Its like a different league a hpr or mhz setup well is boring at 85 mph. Most people are trying to help keith is really going out of his way giving you advicein my opinion. If you want a fast boat forget that 73 crc hull buy a mystic 113 with lehners and have your mind blown.

[keithbradley]

Ok Keith how many stingers that are this style and for big cats have a way to protect the stinger from the inside using the stuffing tube?

I don't know twisted, how many motors have you seen use brass tubing to protect the can if the shaft breaks? Would you choose to remove the bearings from your motors and run brass tubing in their place? That's essentially what you're doing with the drives. I don't know what's going on in that heads of yours that would lead you to believe this is a superior method. You're building something that will cause the drives to bind when you adjust them, and not only NOT protect anything, it will be more likely to break.

I'm shur that you can under stand why this is important as the joints are the weakest point of a stinger. You show me a system that can take a broken shaft and not get a damaged something. I would think that you would get this. control the shaft and you control the damage. I would rather replace a stuffing tube than a 300.00 stinger.

First, I have no idea what you are basing your beliefs on, but stingers typically bend inward, or break the rear support (Typically cheaper stingers). I don't know that I've ever seen one break at the point of pivot. Also, your logic makes no sense here. You say you would rather replace a stuffing tube than a stinger, but you're putting the stuffing tube IN THE STINGER. This makes no sense. In over 100 builds, do you know how many broken flexes I've seen break stingers? Zero. However, look around the forum and you will inevitably find pics of someone's wadded up stuffing tube, "twisted" and mangled from a broken flex. I believe that you have a fox watching your henhouse sir. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that your stuffing tube in the stinger setup is more likely to be problematic than a high end stinger that uses roller bearings and proper tolerances.

Also in a crash don't you think that the tube takes a lot of the stress that would be inflicted? I suggest that you try this stinger as I am and find out. I will be playing with the plastic liner in lengths to see if shorting it and stuffing lithium grease in it's place has any affect in performance. I know that the quality of the aluminum my be in question and that is because I don't know what it is. As for how it's made CNC is as good as you can hope for unless they cold forged and then CNC. I do know that this would stir up a few of you guys. I do know that how I set up the stingers, is the first that I have seen on offshoreelectrics site. So if your willing to prove me wrong then you will need to try it. You have some very fast boats and access to these stingers so I hope that you do give some of your thought after you tried them in way.
I now for the rest of you that this is new to you, and has to be tested. But from the bench it makes $ and cents! As they cost 120.00 for the pair!!!

How on Earth did you come to the conclusion that I have never used this type of stinger? I think what you're failing to realize is that only one of us is making wild predictions about parts we have never owned, touched, or even seen in person. I would NEVER tell you that one part is better than another without knowing about BOTH parts in question.

Seriously twisted...what's the point of all this? It's ok to not know everything. I learn stuff from guys on forums all of the time. There's no need to approach your builds this way. You make proclamations and wait for correction/argument instead of just being upfront and asking someone for advice. Just put your cards on the table and be willing to let people know that you don't know everything and can use some help. I can assure you that you will end up in a better place when your build is finished. It's clear to me that you posted the comment about your drives being better than the drives you know nothing about because you weren't getting responses to your earlier posts. It's pretty easy to see what's going on here, but it really doesn't have to be this way. You could just be open and honest and make a few friends while (in the end) building a better boat than you would have otherwise.

Oh, and one last thing to address something that seems to keep coming up:. Cars/trucks/buggies/etc. are NOTHING to a motor/ESC compared to a boat this size. There is not a 56mm motor on the market that won't seem like an absolute beast in your truck, so don't feel special because a large can motor you buy seems powerful in your off-roader. That gives you no indication of how well it will do in a boat. If you want to go 100mph, plan on running down 8s 10,000 in under two minutes. Think about how long your truck will run on that power.

I've held out this long thinking that maybe you would eventually come to a better understanding and knock off the trolling/game playing. I will now tell you that this is the last of my free advice. Until the trolling stops, I'm not going to be involved in this. Best of luck.

[nata2run]

@ Keith
You are 100% correct, there are those people out there that are always smarter than the Radio! We all share the same feelings about the stuff we buy/built, and we all praise our own god. BUT we have to realise that there is always someone smarter or something better out there, otherwise we wouldn't have what we've got in the first place. The smartest thing on this forum is to take advise from others and put it to good use, there are a few very bright folks out there, and its thanks to them that we are where we are today.

@ Twisted, you should take note of the last sentence! Understand, people are here to help you if you need help, and others are here to read about your build and hopefully pick up a few tips. Be careful what you educate, and how you promote the hardware you use, as you are also playing with peoples safety by giving advise.

I'm still wondering how you pick your hardware? based on what? recommendation from others? or simply buy it because its cheap, and you feel you can modify it to suit? Please educate me...

[Jason4636]

I think the boy just needs to put the crack pipe down before he starts typing. I mostly just read anything that he post just to see what is coming out of his mouth. If I was a Mod. I would just ban him from posting for one year. And just let him read nothing but build threads. Maybe he would learn something. Plus like keith, rockstar, nata all say, they are trying to help. And he don't want or need any help. He's a know it all!!! And if some new guy reads his post and don't know any better, the new guy is gonna waste a lot of money. And hopefully he don't hurt himself, or any bystander.

[iridebikes247]

Its like he thinks hes enlightening all of us. In my opinion we have some of the best builders in the hobby posting in this thread and they're still WILLING to help. Find another hobby, motorsport, sport, etc where people are this kind after the nonsense thats been posted. Threads are littered with bad information now and I hope it doesn't mess up other guys looking to build a boat on here.

Not many guys have built 30lb boats that go 90+mph. Fewer have built ones that survive repeated crashes. It just so happens some of them are on this forum. Once you crash a big boat at 90mph you'll see what I mean. Little braces and what not will just snap off as the hulls are rattled in a way you can't imagine. Building a 50-60mph boat that runs on 4-6s is pretty cool, but building a big one is just incredibly different. The amount of time, energy, and money required to build a solid knowledge base/foundation is far beyond what most people can imagine.

All of us with high end european boats have tried the cheap stuff and moved on for a reason. The workmanship must be fantastic or the benefit of owning precision parts is wasted. You can watch youtube vids all day long but when you see an mhz or hpr tear by at 110mph totally flat, with no drama, you realize what you're looking at is an accomplishment for modern engineering.

[Livewire121]

Its like he thinks hes enlightening all of us. In my opinion we have some of the best builders in the hobby posting in this thread and they're still WILLING to help. Find another hobby, motorsport, sport, etc where people are this kind after the nonsense thats been posted. Threads are littered with bad information now and I hope it doesn't mess up other guys looking to build a boat on here.

Not many guys have built 30lb boats that go 90+mph. Fewer have built ones that survive repeated crashes. It just so happens some of them are on this forum. Once you crash a big boat at 90mph you'll see what I mean. Little braces and what not will just snap off as the hulls are rattled in a way you can't imagine. Building a 50-60mph boat that runs on 4-6s is pretty cool, but building a big one is just incredibly different. The amount of time, energy, and money required to build a solid knowledge base/foundation is far beyond what most people can imagine.

All of us with high end european boats have tried the cheap stuff and moved on for a reason. The workmanship must be fantastic or the benefit of owning precision parts is wasted. You can watch youtube vids all day long but when you see an mhz or hpr tear by at 110mph totally flat, with no drama, you realize what you're looking at is an accomplishment for modern engineering.

+1 I absolutely agree!

[tlandauer]

I tried my best not to read this thread till I see names I absolutely respect and admire, so last night I read from the begining, I still have a headache this morning, I think the OP is simply not on the same page as most of us, I agree that for those of us experienced enough we know what will and won't work, it is the beginners that one has to be considerate.
Anyway, I just want to use this opportunity to say that I have learned so much and like the previous statements, it has been a blessing for me that responsible people are willing to give free advice tirelessly!
Note to newbie: choose what you read carefully!

[Cooper]

no this isn't my first build! It's my first boat build. THX though

For what it's worth, I would like to see you launch this boat. Maybe if it ever sees water you will be able to tell us how your theories manifest into your proposed building techniques and one off engineering designs. I'm always trying to keep an eye out for improvements that will increase hull dynamics (internal and external). One way is to see threads like this that you are thinking outside the boundaries of rc boating but trying to apply to rc boating. Improvements? Well I don't know as it has been a dry build thread. For these different building ideas you should apply them to a boat that actually is under power while floating. As until then these are just wild ideas. Not saying they are bad (and not saying I approve) but simply saying unproven. And I would like to see this on water running under full power, as i don't have any large boats. As a lot of your implications are relating to design improvements but not improving anything until application facts are shown. Lets see it run. The best part of a build is the maiden run, let's see it get wet.

[twissted]

I will adjust the liner inside the stuffing tube short. It will stop as it exit the hull. I will use just the brass tube inside the stinger. There should be no drag on the drive shaft that isn't need. As for your thoughts about me and my thoughts. I don't have enough experience to deal with most of it so I will go with banding my self from this post.

P.s. I really like how All you boats look like CLONES!

[Cooper]

Wtf?? I just want to see it running. After you get it running then you can fill us all in on how your ideas worked out. Never know till you try. As far as clones, well , it's what has a proven effective. And it's what works. Until other designs are proven to work they are just a concept no matter how absurd or how technical they are just unproven. So put those ideas to the water and find out.