bomb proof stuffing tube mount

[RandyatBBY]

If you want the epoxy to blend in a little better use a little black pigment. A little goes a long way. The strongest epoxy I have ever used is Loctite 9462 Hysol. not cheap $32.00 for 1.69 Fluid Oz.

[twissted]

Thx I will try it. I have been using the marine and the gorilla 2 part epoxy. It's always good to hear about strong bonding agents

[ozzie-crawl]

If you want the epoxy to blend in a little better use a little black pigment. A little goes a long way. The strongest epoxy I have ever used is Loctite 9462 Hysol. not cheap $32.00 for 1.69 Fluid Oz.

I used graphite powder to colour the epoxy in my last build comes out nice. What is pigment Randy ??. Like rit dye.

[RandyatBBY]

I used graphite powder to colour the epoxy in my last build comes out nice. What is pigment Randy ??. Like rit dye.

It is for epoxy and Pollyester used in Gel coat most of the time.

[RandyatBBY]

Thx I will try it. I have been using the marine and the gorilla 2 part epoxy. It's always good to hear about strong bonding agents

We use the Hysol for the aluminum water pickup in the bottom of cats

[ozzie-crawl]

It is for epoxy and Pollyester used in Gel coat most of the time.

Thanks will give it a try. The graphite powder looks nice and shiney but makes it a pita if you need to drill threw it.

[boredom.is.me]

Again, "highlights" and "their".

[nata2run]

Getting back to the high lights of the build!
I know that some of you may have a problem with what I'm about to say but the stingers that I used in this build is probably the best stinger out... Hear is why, the inside is milled out so that the stuffing tube runs threw it. This is the benefits of that. more control! As the stuffing tube controls the drive tube threw the hull and into the stinger it has no weak point and have less chance of shaft flex at this point. Also the chance of the weld that is on the flex shaft has less stress on it. Here is something you don't want to happen but sometimes does and that is the flex shaft breaking. The stuffing tube takes the blunt of the blow and you should have a stinger when it over. As the stinger in this damage should be in the tube. I see a lot of money spent on stingers and its base on how it mounts and how it controls the prop. So your buying something that it designed from the outside in, not the other way around.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]103440[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]103441[/ATTACH]
The second picture is something that is just as important is how the stuffing tube is mounted inside the hull. I came up with the "T" mount that locks it in as good as you will find.
So if you guys that have this stinger you need to look into redoing your build to take advantage of this design and for others looking in doing a build this stinger it 1/3 the cost of so called high-end stingers. And if there smart they will start milling the center to fit the tube as it is a better design period!

http://www.horracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=441&osCsid=8hhbldhuhsbd67l3hpdj12hpd4

This stinger is made by TFL HOBBY.

I'm wondering why this so called "T" mount is so important? Wouldn't you think, that if your stuffing tube need that much support there is something wrong? It's suppose to guide the flex into the drive, not take a ton of load. That rusted cable also look like its going to snap real soon. I'm not sure either that TLF hobby have the best drives out there either? Maybe I'm missing something? With the stuffing tube going that far into the drive, how is the props haft held in place?

[twissted]

exiled myself!

[twissted]

exiled myself!

[iridebikes247]

Thats an HPR06, its like 12 inches shorter than the super daytona. The thing is when you insert the brass tube very far into the drive the prop shaft end will insert into teflon and its a tight squeeze. Under load and at high rpm it will result in drag. When running these boats at high speed ya its important to build smart but not over build. I would pay a lot of attention to keeping the batteries in place and coming up with a system that relies on a lot of surface area to hold them in place. Last thing you need is a lipo blowing your hatch off or getting smashed up in the hull. This is your first build and you have some cool ideas but I would be careful and test to make sure not much teflon tubing rides on the flex shaft. The HOR stingers can be setup to run ok in a sport boat but they do have their limitations with powerful stuff

I personally ran the super daytona and did this the same way you did but in hindsight the tube shouldn't go in so far that the teflon wraps around the prop shaft. If it does it will just not be as efficient as an extra lead teflon bushing.

[keithbradley]

. I lube after every run.

Twisted,

I know that you say a lot of things just to get a response, and I try not to feed into it. However, you should realize that there are other people reading your thread that may not know that everything you're saying is only theory to you and not knowledge you have gained from experience. Your unsubstantiated advice could cost someone else money.

Build a fast boat, run it, and I guarantee you will start to realize why those of us that run fast boats run the drives (and other parts) that we do. It's not because we prefer to pay higher prices just for fun. Please consider the possibility that you do not have a magic Midas touch, and just happen to fall on the best parts in the world EVERY TIME you buy something just by buying what's cheapest. I'm sure you know people in your life who try to pretend what they have is the best, just because it's what they have. It's not a desirable quality in a friend, peer,or even competitor. Use some of the good stuff, then make a comparison. The idea of comparing what you have to that which you have never even touched is ludicrous. .

If you're not willing to use the components you're making a comparison to, your opinion is useless. It's based on nothing but self promotion, and has little to do with the actual parts you are speaking of.
The only other way to get credibility would be to build a boat with your stuff, and outperform those of us that you disagree with. Best of luck in this venture.

[twissted]

exiled myself!

[Cooper]

I'm wondering why this so called "T" mount is so important? Wouldn't you think, that if your stuffing tube need that much support there is something wrong? It's suppose to guide the flex into the drive, not take a ton of load. That rusted cable also look like its going to snap real soon. I'm not sure either that TLF hobby have the best drives out there either? Maybe I'm missing something? With the stuffing tube going that far into the drive, how is the props haft held in place?

I too am wondering how the prop shaft will be supported. And what happens when you need to change the angle of the stingers? The angle changes at the transome but the rigid brass tube extends well past that??

[ozzie-crawl]

The reason for the big void in those stingers is there designed for the 2 piece flex shaft and have to allow for the larger stub shaft end. If it was a proper 1 piece flex design it would not have such a big area inside.
I run these on my twin cat and only run the stuffer tube about 1 inch inside and use no Teflon liner.
These stingers qaulity is very sub par even comparing to the speed master stingers yet alone some of the german stuff.