HPR C5009 Bulletproof Animal build.
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HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin one -
Hi folks,
Well... As they say, Sometimes life just gets in the way!
I've not made any real progress with my build but I intend to get it done soon!
I have finalised a design for the paint, I was going to go all out custom paint scheme but decided that I would never be happy with it so now, I'm going for a much more scale look similar to the Fendi Racing boat but keeping with my Animal clothing logos....
I do have one question though...
Can anyone advise me on filling the join line that runs round the perimeter where the top and bottom halves join???
Wondering if I should carve out the line?? And fill it with body filler or gelcote???
Thanks in advance....HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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Hi,
Me again...
So, I know things are slow in my camp but there are many jobs and I'm afraid my hobbies come way down the list!!!
Anyway....
I'm still waiting for ESC's and a few other bits but I've done a little....
Both drive lines are in....
And the first set of batteries are here...
Also, I had a go at sketching an idea for the paint...
Let me know what you think???
It's a twist on a real boat I love but I wanted to make it symmetrical and go with the Animal theme...HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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BTW, I know I'm no artist so take it easy on me!!! ;-)Last edited by KillerDave; 11-24-2013, 07:00 PM.HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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Hi friends!
I have a pre-charger from MHZ and I was wondering if you guys/girls have had any problems with it???
I'm sure I've connected it up right but the light stays on (in translation, I think it needs to go out?)
And, the board gets quite warm... I left it for 10 minutes and decided to give the main +VE cable a go and yep, still got a massive arc from it!!!
I'll post pictures later but for now...
Does anybody know???HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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Hi friends!
I have a pre-charger from MHZ and I was wondering if you guys/girls have had any problems with it???
I'm sure I've connected it up right but the light stays on (in translation, I think it needs to go out?)
And, the board gets quite warm... I left it for 10 minutes and decided to give the main +VE cable a go and yep, still got a massive arc from it!!!
I'll post pictures later but for now...
Does anybody know???
On another note, I have modded the ESC's with additional caps and joined them together with brass tubes.
Just gotta finish mounting things and make the LiPo mounts....
Still feels like so much to do..... :-/HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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Thanks though, just wish I could spend more time on it....HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luckmy youtube videos http://www.youtube.com/user/chris81983?feature=mheeComment
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Kind of, they pre-charge the caps before you connect the main + lead... Not sure on the voltage, Here's all to info I have, http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/ESC/Su...h-for-ESC.html
Thanks though, just wish I could spend more time on it....Comment
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I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luck
I do appreciate your input! It won't kill me to just try different configurations and see what works out best.
There are many, more experienced guys on here than I am and it's those I need to help me through this build!
This boat is my 'show boat' she's the one that will come out to wow the crowds at the race days....
Never will be a SAW boat and definitely not a racer! (nothing in my club this fast!) but for me, this is getting about the best I can.
Sure, I can spend 2/3 times as much on ESC'S and motors but why??? My lakes not so big and there are other users on the lake at the same time.
Plus, I just can't justify it... I will at some point get data logging for it but I have a big vacation soon that I have to pay for so that's taking my money for now... Snowboarding.... My other love!!! ;-)
I can't wait to get paint on this thing too!!! What do you think of my paint scheme??? Anyone???HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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I always cool the motors first for years now if your cooling systep is setup correctly you will benifit from this. The data logging can prove that the esc will be the same temp if it is cooled first or second while your motors will see a 20 degree difference. Second most esc can handle tempatures that will start to have a negative impact on motors. Finally by the look of it from your pics you will have a shorter cooling system if you do the motors first. There is a reason why all he german builders going over 100 do this but then again everyone has their own opinions you decide for yourself with your own testing and by the way your build looks great and should perform well good luck
I will use that in my build.
Tell me, what do you think?Comment
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Is it not the best way just to use two double water pickups and make a separate line for cooling motors and separate for esc's...that way both get fresh and coolest possible water...the expense is a few centimeters more of water tubing and a purchase of double water pickups? Not much...really
I will use that in my build.
Tell me, what do you think?
The outboard pick-ups would come out where the prop tubes are....HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin oneComment
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