Help me build a Sniper 45"

[kevinpratt823]

Looks like trim tab brackets are upside down.
Flooded tube looks good

Lol, you are correct, I just stuck them on for the pic, didn't even realize it.

[Heaving Earth]

Looks like a nice boat you're doing

[RaceMechaniX]

Kevin,

Before you glass the tube in, mount the motor, T-bar and bend the stuffing tube the way you want it. Use the next larger size brass tube to make a "pass through" where the piece of tube will be epoxied in place. This will allow you to remove the 5/16 or 11/32 stuffing tube should it fail. Position the motor side of the flooded stuffing tube so there is an 1/8" of gap on the top between the ID of the carbon tube and OD of the brass "pass through" piece. This will allow epoxy to get all the way around and provide more structural support and a better seal. It ends up looking like the carbon tube has a slight downward tilt towards the transom when all said and done.

TG

[kevinpratt823]

Kevin,

Before you glass the tube in, mount the motor, T-bar and bend the stuffing tube the way you want it. Use the next larger size brass tube to make a "pass through" where the piece of tube will be epoxied in place. This will allow you to remove the 5/16 or 11/32 stuffing tube should it fail. Position the motor side of the flooded stuffing tube so there is an 1/8" of gap on the top between the ID of the carbon tube and OD of the brass "pass through" piece. This will allow epoxy to get all the way around and provide more structural support and a better seal. It ends up looking like the carbon tube has a slight downward tilt towards the transom when all said and done.

TG

Thanks Tyler, I really appreciate you following this thread. Glassing the tube in will definitely be the last step, after I have the motor/T-bar set, and tube shaped, and I will be sleeving the brass like you said. I am thinking of what to fill the end of the flooded tube in with, I would like to close it off with some sort of plug, or at least a couple CF disks that would be drilled out in the center for the brass and epoxied into the end. Did you just use epoxy alone to seal the end off?

[srislash]

I've been contemplating a rubber grommet to seal the front of the flood tube.I'm paying attention here for a couple builds Kevin.I have a pursuit that I am putting the flood tube in as well and am thinking of the offset like you have done.

Now on another note,this is how my 35"DF is setup with a 1717 under the ESC.The 2 batteries beside the motor make it carve corners like crazy.When I got the boat they were down the sides and it hopped and chined all over.
DF35 001.jpgDF35 010.jpgtray 003.jpg

[kevinpratt823]

SAM_0167.jpgSAM_0168.jpgSAM_0170.jpgSAM_0171.jpgSAM_0172.jpg
Got the motor/T-bar installed, started on the driveline. Played around with a few ideas for batt placement and servo location, the three layous in the pic all give me roughly 33% cog with room for adjustment.

Thanks for the input Slash. With the little experience I have had with mono's so far(Impulse, Cyberstorm) I would definitely believe you. It would seem that if ALL the wieght is in the centerline, or on the outsides, it is too easy to throw off balance. To me it seems to work best when the weight is distributed a bit. Same seems true for front to back, i.e. If your weight is too focused near the COG, it makes it rock a lot more using the COG as a pivot point, and possibly letting the bow too far down at the wrong time and causing the boat to dissapear suddenly.

Of course I could be way off with those observations though.

As far as sealing the flooded tube, with this boat I am worried the driveline may get too hot for a rubber grommet/stopper, still pondering....

[Punisher 67]

Kevin where did you get the adjustable T-bar

[srislash]

With the little experience I have had with mono's so far(Impulse, Cyberstorm) I would definitely believe you. It would seem that if ALL the wieght is in the centerline, or on the outsides, it is too easy to throw off balance. To me it seems to work best when the weight is distributed a bit. Same seems true for front to back, i.e. If your weight is too focused near the COG, it makes it rock a lot more using the COG as a pivot point, and possibly letting the bow too far down at the wrong time and causing the boat to dissapear suddenly.

Of course I could be way off with those observations though.

As far as sealing the flooded tube, with this boat I am worried the driveline may get too hot for a rubber grommet/stopper, still pondering....

Mine was really P'ing me off as I am used to cats(first mono setup).I fought with the weight/balance for awhile then finally a small amount of trim tab and wala...

[RaceMechaniX]

Kevin,

To seal off the flooded stuffing tube I used a round disk with a hole offset that the stuffing passed through. I tacked the disk to the end of the carbon tube with some CA. Tipping the boat vertical with the nose down and supported I used a syringe with epoxy and a straw to place the epoxy down the tube without letting it dribble on the brass or carbon tube. Just make sure you CA around the disk completely or you may end up with a puddle of epoxy on your motor. Let the epoxy cure overnight and you are ready.

TG

[kevinpratt823]

Kevin where did you get the adjustable T-bar

Peter, I actually scooped it up on the Swap forum here, but it is made by Arrow Shark, and you should be able to find it on Ebay or otherwise. It has a cool oiler can on top too that directs it right to the shaft if you drill a small hole. It won't quite clamp down on an 11/32 tube though, probably be using some teflon tape or silicone, tried heat shrink, but it was too big.

Thanks Tyler, I think I'm going with a similar idea on sealing the tube. That sounds pretty tricky, I was thinking of putting epoxy in from the motor end, and standing the boat on the transome, but your way would definitely give a better finished look.

[Punisher 67]

Thanks for the reply Kevin - I can actualy machine my own but its always nice to veiw other designs .

[lenny]

Hey Peter,
Hears a link to it.

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG7id9wuFQegEAdrtXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE0N3IxYm4zBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkA1FJMDA3XzEzOQ--/SIG=11n9ekscd/EXP=1357001469/**http%3a//www.arrowshark.com/T-bar.php

Thanks for the reply Kevin - I can actualy machine my own but its always nice to veiw other designs .

[lenny]

Hey Kevin,
How about a small peace of fuel tubing to go over the flex tubing to make a good tight fit on it,
Just add some lube to make it easier to get it to go over it.

[kevinpratt823]

Hey Kevin,
How about a small peace of fuel tubing to go over the flex tubing to make a good tight fit on it,
Just add some lube to make it easier to get it to go over it.

It is only a tiny fraction of a gap, but enough that the tube would still rotate. It wasn't even enough of a gap to fit the brass tube through with a short piece of heat shrink on it, so fuel tube definitely won't fit, I think I'll try the heat shrink again, with a little more finess and some lube, I don't think it would even be enough to fit an exta 3/8" brass tube sleeve over the 11/32, (which is a sleeve over the full length of 5/16").

[kevinpratt823]

I am not sure what you have going on there,
But I think you just need the T bar to be a snug fit to the tube.
Like if you back off on the bolt that holds the tube and spread it open some,
Like it was when new.
Then see how much room you have to work with around the tube.

It is brand new. The block is very rigid, and it doesn't just spread open when you loosen the bolt(tried prying with screwdriver). There is very little give in the clamp to open/close it. I'll get something to work, not a big deal, I just got into that part yesterday and haven't spent much time on it yet. The T-bar needs to be a snug enough fit to seal it off all the way around because of the built in oiler hole/reservoir, I'll post some better pics when I get working on it in a few.....