Help me build a Sniper 45"

[lenny]

Looking at it a little closer I would use a thin rubber vacuum cap,
And the cap will stop the oil from getting all over in the hull.
I am not sure what you have going on there,
But I think you just need the T bar to be a snug fit to the tube.
Like if you back off on the bolt that holds the tube and spread it open some,
Like it was when new.
Then see how much room you have to work with around the tube.

[kevinpratt823]

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Here is my solution (for now) and a better view of what I was talking about. The tube by itself when the clamp was as tight as I could get it, was still a tad loose. The tube with a peice of heat shrink on it(4th pic) wouldn't even fit in even with the clamp backed way out and a little prying(notice the screwdriver marks at the clamp jaw). The tube with a few wraps of teflon tape just fits, and the clamp tightens down enough to keep it from budging or rotating etc., and should provide a good seal. Now I can drill all the way through the oiler hole in the T-bar into the brass tube(5th pic) to allow the oil from the reservoir cup(which threads in to the top of the tube block) to be drawn through to the shaft.

[kevinpratt823]

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I tacked the rear hood scoops on with epoxy, there is only a thin edge to secure to the hatch spots, so I opened it up from the underside with the dremel and glassed them in. When I get some more foam, I will fill them, trim it flat, and glass over that again, so if they do break off, there won't be a wide open hole through the hatch. The middle/top larger scoop has much more gluing surface to it, I think I'll leave it be, maybe drill through and start the hatch foam pour in there.

[kevinpratt823]

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I cut a small peice of CF and glued it to the end of the flooded tube, sanded around flush, then drilled it for he brass sleeve. Glassed it in place, then used Tyler's trick(thanks) to fill in some epoxy from inside the tube with a syringe and long tube. Taped off the motor side and it's standing on end curing now.

edit: when this was finished, I also stuffed a rolled peice of FG under the tube near the front, then flooded it with resin, to secure/support the tube to the hull.

[kevinpratt823]

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One thing I will be needing to do is true up the ride pads. When I put a straight edge to it, I had at least a 1/8" dip to get rid of. I'm thinking this is way too much to just sand out, so any input on how to go about possibly filling in a bit(and with what), then sanding true, would be appreciated.

[Rumdog]

I'd run it first. It will likely run just fine with the small hook.
Also, for the stuffing tube/T-bar fitment, you can just cut a small section of the next larger size in brass tube, and slip it over the end to take up the excessive play.

[RandyatBBY]

I am with Rumdog, My OM 29 has the same thing to run trim tabless. I can run the smallest tabs and be real fast.

[kevinpratt823]

I'd run it first. It will likely run just fine with the small hook.
Also, for the stuffing tube/T-bar fitment, you can just cut a small section of the next larger size in brass tube, and slip it over the end to take up the excessive play.

Thanks, I will try running it he way it is. As far as the T-bar, I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room to fit the next size brass, bu I'm going to pick a length up and try anyway.

[RandyatBBY]

Thanks, I will try running it he way it is. As far as the T-bar, I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room to fit the next size brass, bu I'm going to pick a length up and try anyway.

When you do get some emery paper and size it down on a lathe or a drill press to fit. You could use shim stock from the hardware store K&S makes it.

[CornelP]

I had a similar problem with some collars for a rigger. The easiest solution is to enlarge a bit the slot under the hole (one 10th of a mm at a time) and it will tighten ok...

[kevinpratt823]

I had a similar problem with some collars for a rigger. The easiest solution is to enlarge a bit the slot under the hole (one 10th of a mm at a time) and it will tighten ok...

Thanks, but this is not the problem, the slot/gap is large enough that it's not even close to bottoming out on itself when tightened down, the peice is just so thick and rigid that it barely gives when you tighten the clamping screw.
It will work just fine with the teflon, or anoher sleeve that I come up with, maybe the 3/8" brass turned down as Randy said.

[Heaving Earth]

Couldn't you sleeve the stuffing tube then just drill the t bar hole larger? Or am I not understanding the problem?

[Heaving Earth]

Also have you tried loosening the screws that hold the clamp in place and clamping first? Maybe it needs some relief to close the clamp first...

[kevinpratt823]

Also have you tried loosening the screws that hold the clamp in place and clamping first? Maybe it needs some relief to close the clamp first...

I thought about drilling it out, but I would rather not. I have tried tightening it with the other hardware loose as well. It's really not that big of a problem, it's resolved now with 2 wraps of teflon, I'll sort it out along the way if I want to do something else..

[kevinpratt823]

Can you guys give me an idea on how much torque will be required from a servo for this setup? Thanks.