Help me build a Sniper 45"

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  • kevinpratt823
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Aug 2012
    • 1361

    #16
    Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
    I prefer the flooded stuffing tube and strut, but if you slotted the stinger to allow for up and down movement on the transom then you can use it with a flodded stuffing tube. Steve Seebold is machining 1/4" stingers with slotted holes.

    TG
    Any contact info on aquiring those stingers?
    Also, do you think it is possible to use a slotted stinger WITHOUT having a flooded tube? Perhaps ovaling out the transom slightly just enough that the stinger plate still covers the whole area, allowing just a touch of adjustment? Hopefully I'll get started on something today. I have ordered a mount for 5" rails, can I ASSume that the 5" is exactly 5", so I could install the rails today, or should I just wait for the mount to show up to be sure?
    This is the mount I ordered http://southriverrcboats.com/shop/ar...WRP-5-30F-0%26
    My private off road rc track
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8

    Comment

    • srislash
      Not there yet
      • Mar 2011
      • 7673

      #17
      I've got 5" to the inside of the rails on the AC and the Dumas Kevin.

      Comment

      • jcald2000
        Senior Member
        • May 2008
        • 774

        #18
        If you have prints, and need anything done on a lathe or CNC mill,or CNC Lathe. let me know I have a full shop at my use. 2 Haas CNC Mills, and 2 Haas CNC Lathes plus a lot of other stuff. PM with questions.


        Contact info

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        • kevinpratt823
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2012
          • 1361

          #19
          Originally posted by jcald2000
          I created an account, but it says I do not have permission to view that info, I'll try again later......

          Thanks Slash. I mocked up a set of rails that should work, and put a layer of FG mat in the hatch with (Z-Poxy)finishing resin. I will definitely not be using the finishing resin the rest of the way, as it is pretty thick and tougher to work with. My father and brother are both commercial fisherman, and have been doing fiberglass work for many years, so I am going with some of thier help and guidance as well.
          My private off road rc track
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8

          Comment

          • dana
            Banned
            • Mar 2010
            • 3573

            #20
            You can thin epoxy with rubbing alcohol

            Comment

            • jcald2000
              Senior Member
              • May 2008
              • 774

              #21
              Don't use RUBBING alcohol!!!, It has water in it and will destroy the strength of the epoxy.
              If you have to use alcohol instead use CAMP STOVE alcohol, no water!, but still weakens the epoxy some.
              Better to use the right epoxy, West or MAS from boating store.
              MAT only has about 25% of the strength/weight of cloth at the same weight.

              Comment

              • RaceMechaniX
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2007
                • 2821

                #22
                Originally posted by dana
                You can thin epoxy with rubbing alcohol
                You can thin epoxy with Acetone, but I would strongly suggest against using alcohol.
                Tyler Garrard
                NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                Comment

                • RaceMechaniX
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 2821

                  #23
                  I would not suggest using a slotted stinger without a flooded stuffing tube. The only way I have done this was by siliconing the tube exiting the transom to death. It worked, but required regooping every time you changed the height. The Stinger plate does not seal well so do rely on this for sealing water.

                  You can contact Steve Seebold at [email protected]
                  Tyler Garrard
                  NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                  T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                  Comment

                  • Punisher 67
                    Ignore list member #67
                    • May 2008
                    • 1480

                    #24
                    Tyler has a wealth of info ( RaceMechaniX ) You will like the Sniper it runs and corners like its on rails - I have two of them - What motor are you using
                    Necessity is the mother of invention.............

                    Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000

                    Comment

                    • RandyatBBY
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 3915

                      #25
                      Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                      You can thin epoxy with Acetone, but I would strongly suggest against using alcohol.
                      I use isopropyl alcohol to thin my epoxy. It was recommend by one of my supplier tech adviser as a good way to thin epoxy for a thinner viscosity.
                      Randy
                      For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware
                      BBY Racing

                      Comment

                      • kevinpratt823
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2012
                        • 1361

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Punisher 67
                        Tyler has a wealth of info ( RaceMechaniX ) You will like the Sniper it runs and corners like its on rails - I have two of them - What motor are you using
                        Power is a Castle 2028/Hydra Ice 200HV, on 10s paralell(consisting of a 4s and 6s in series on each side, all 5000mah/65c thunder power)
                        Thank you all for your input, I appreciate it greatly. Hopefully today I will get a run of fg cloth strip down each side at the seam, and see where I go from there. I am thinking of mounting the rails at 5-1/4" apart and glassing all the way up both sides. Tha glass will take up most of the extra 1/4", and I may be shimming the mount from there. I feel that this will also allow me a touch of leeway to get the motor where I want it(center). I already bought a quart of epoxy resin from west marine, that was the only thing my brother didn't have in his bin, which is why we used the finishing resin to start on the hatch, now I know better. Also will prob stick with cloth for the rest of the build.....

                        Should I consider offsetting the prop for torque roll on this build?
                        My private off road rc track
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8

                        Comment

                        • RaceMechaniX
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Sep 2007
                          • 2821

                          #27
                          A 1/4" of extra clearance seems very excessive. I only had an extra 1/16" for the carbon build up on the inside of the rails. I do suggest offsetting the prop between 3/16" to a 1/4" to the right for roll compensation.
                          Tyler Garrard
                          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                          Comment

                          • kevinpratt823
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2012
                            • 1361

                            #28
                            Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                            A 1/4" of extra clearance seems very excessive. I only had an extra 1/16" for the carbon build up on the inside of the rails. I do suggest offsetting the prop between 3/16" to a 1/4" to the right for roll compensation.
                            Thanks, will do, I'll bring the rails in a bit, and plan to offset the shaft, so you don't think widening the rails to allow the option of shimming the motor a touch to the right is a good idea?
                            My private off road rc track
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8

                            Comment

                            • RaceMechaniX
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Sep 2007
                              • 2821

                              #29
                              I used 1/32" shim stock on each side of the motor mount and rails when mocking everyhting up. I glassed in the outside of the rails first, removed the motor and shims and then glassed the inside of the rails in. The shims accounted for the single layer of carbon cloth buildup. I set mine up with the motor centered. The stuffing tube was bent ever to slighlty to accomodate the offset strut.

                              I would not start in till you have all the pieces mocked up in place including steering servo, battery trays, etc.
                              Tyler Garrard
                              NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                              T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                              Comment

                              • kevinpratt823
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Aug 2012
                                • 1361

                                #30
                                Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                                I used 1/32" shim stock on each side of the motor mount and rails when mocking everyhting up. I glassed in the outside of the rails first, removed the motor and shims and then glassed the inside of the rails in. The shims accounted for the single layer of carbon cloth buildup. I set mine up with the motor centered. The stuffing tube was bent ever to slighlty to accomodate the offset strut.

                                I would not start in till you have all the pieces mocked up in place including steering servo, battery trays, etc.
                                Were your rails installed from the factory? Mine has none at all, so I'm making them myself. I will definitely mock up as much as I can before doing anything permanent. Tonight I reinforced the transom with a layer of combo, which has mat on one side and a heavy cloth on the other. Cut it to shape, laid it up/wet with resin on a peice of cardboard, laid it in and added resin, while patching in the edges with scraps of mat. I keep forgetting to bring my camera to my father's house, which is where I am doing this so far. Tomorrow I intend to lay in the carbon kevlar weave through the whole hull and up the sides, unless you(guys) advise another step first.............

                                Oh, any suggestions on the length of setback for a dual pickup speedmaster rudder?.........
                                edit, just saw that Tyler ran 6", maybe I'll start with that........
                                Last edited by kevinpratt823; 12-17-2012, 08:06 PM.
                                My private off road rc track
                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8

                                Comment

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