35" DF Pirate 1st build.

[dana]

is there a reason the upper trim tab brackets are on upside down?

[KartRacer]

Ok Dana
Your either a comedian or I am really lost:)
Of course at the same time anything is possible!

[dana]

Heh, well they appear to be upside down, unless I've been doing mine upside down lol.
I guess it doesn't matter, as long as the perform the same task

[KartRacer]

Dana
Nope just looked at some other threads and you are correct, they are upside down, sure glad I didn't try to run it that way. I was wondering why the bolts were so long. LOL
Thanks for the heads up.

[dana]

Cool man -)

[Make-a-Wake]

What ESC are you running??

[lenny]

I had the same thing with a boat I bought on hear some time back,
And was told by D.Smock same thing about the trim tabs.

[KartRacer]

Make a wake. Running Seaking 180.

[Make-a-Wake]

The T180 can handle it as long as you dont use a huge prop, what are you gonna run.............x445-x447??

[Scott T]

Dennis, looking good so far!

That rudder is what I used on my DF21 MkII, but I packed it out 1/4" using some carbon plate I laminated together. I used a strut though, the rear edge of it is 2.5" from the transom. Your stinger will be a bit longer.

The bigger Speedmaster rudders should work just fine. The reason I used the 21 rudder is because the transom is shallow on my DF and the bigger ones didn't fit. The Pirate looks a bit deeper.

The transom doubler can be a pain for blind nuts - the material is too hard for them to bite into. Putting a piece of 1/16" ply over the whole thing would make it easier. I actually flattened out the teeth on my blind nuts (not quite all the way) and epoxied them in place. HAs worked fine so far, but I would probably use ply if I did it again.

[KartRacer]

Make A wake
I have a 445 on order to start with.
Scott
Thanks I have cut 3/32 ply out but could easily do 1/16. I was tossing around just using washers, but thought since I am Kevlar/CF the hull maybe just go ahead and ply it.
It will be one of those last minute snap decision I'm sure. :)

[KartRacer]

Nice build coming along here!! I would suggest to send the whole rudder back and get a twin water pickup model, one for the ESC and one for the motor, that is unless its easier to just by the correct standoff mount. I still prefer the seperate cooling for each though. The big Speedmaster rudder would be nice.

This one is made with six different setbacks, you probably need the 4"............. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-rud-dual-tap

Have you considered a 4092 for 6s?? The 1480kv would be sweet! http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-4092&cat=148

Make a wake
Two issues, the hull is already drilled for the current rudder. Did not want to make Swiss cheese out of the transom. May just keep this rudder so I don't have to redrillmore holes.

The 4092 motor is in stock but is not the "recommended" motor by everyone here on the forum. Again there has to be trade offs with the 4092. 1480kv verses the 4082 1600kv. Less rpm, more current and heat, boat will be slower if rpm is down and I have to turn a smaller prop to control the load I am willing to wait for the 1600 if it is the correct way to power this boat.
I may make a rudder extension for the existing rudder by hand with some aluminum stock rather than add 4 more holes to the transom.
Could use some opinions here.

[tlandauer]

Looking good! Seems your build thread is generating alot of interests and picking up great advices. I don't want to interrupt this and I can understand why you don't want to make Swiss Cheese out of your transom. Just a thought: the 4" set back ( extended) rudder bracket is made out of machined billet aluminum much thicker than the SpeedMaster 21, and for good reason, at twice the length, one has to take into consideration of the force the bracket experiences while the rudder is doing its work turning the boat. It is not uncommon for the bracket to get bent. So if you choose to make one , make sure it is strong enough.

[Make-a-Wake]

The 4092 motor is in stock but is not the "recommended" motor by everyone here on the forum. Again there has to be trade offs with the 4092. 1480kv verses the 4082 1600kv. Less rpm, more current and heat, boat will be slower if rpm is down and I have to turn a smaller prop to control the load I am willing to wait for the 1600 if it is the correct way to power this boat.

Dont know why its "not" recommended It can actually turn a larger prop with less/same amp draw, dont need a smaller one. I ran my 39" Mono with a T180 for two years powering a Castle 1717, which is 45 x 85mm........ a 4092(40 x 92mm) is about identical in power. Not trying to sway you at all, just telling you that the 4092 is not a bad option. The 4082 will push it over 50 mph.

[lenny]

I would take your time and fill and drill for the right hardware,
Will be better in the long run all around and better cooling to.