1st Build - Insane Boats 34" Mono

[stonerracing]

You'll see the first novice mistake is not having all the right size drill bits and accidently letting the larger bits grap and take some gelcoat with it :doh

If you continue to build hulls, I'd suggest picking up a set of Brad Point Drill Bits from Harbor Freight. I bought a new set recently for about $15. Great investment..




http://www.harborfreight.com/29-piec...set-35837.html

[riptide1]

Properchopper, I recently added two smaller trimtabs close in to the strut. The boat is handling much better now and is a blast to drive. I now need to blueprint the bottom and fix the gelcoat chip that I caused when drilling the drive hole. The bottom back half of the hull definitely has some 1-2 mm low spots and the very back bottom edge adjacent the transom could use a little buildup it's opposite what I've seen referred to as "hook" in blueprinting a hull. This could explain the difficulty in keeping the nose down. How exactly should I go about blueprinting? I plan to use the bondo lightweight body filler, but then I don't know if I should use a polyester primer and speed coat like I've read the full scale drag boat racers use?? Any suggestions/direction you could give would be appreciated.

Rip,

Although my main experience with IB34's are with 4S2P setups, with a rtr weight of @ 9.5 lbs, I can see that your boat is running stuck to the water. At 11 lbs with 6S, the boat needs to break loose - guaranteed racewater will do this - even my 4S2P setup sticks on smooth water. You'll definitely go faster with 2P but weight is a factor, so run in chop & you'll see a difference

Mark F's boat, the second one out of the mold [the one Jeff mentioned] needed to add some material to the rear edge (so did I - mine was the first out)
The later, shorter strake hulls are ok in that area. In fact, Mark's newer hull is unreal with a 1527 on 4S but any hull could use some blueprinting - I'm still working on mine.


If you aren't getting chine walk your tabs should be OK where they are, but as you increase speeds and the hull airs out things could and likely will change.

You've probably seen these pictures, but here's how I lock down the hatch (way more secure and waterproof than the quick-release locks - takes a few more seconds to engage, but the hatch won't go anywhere the boat doesn't :


[ATTACH=CONFIG]76113[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76114[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76115[/ATTACH]

[Cooper]

Seems like a lot of people have issues of chipping when drilling holes. I have always used a dremmel to punch through first. Then simply use a round file. If you put the file in a drill turn it backwards so it is pushing into the hole and with a minimal amount of effort you can create any size hole. And by starting smaller you can also increase the diameter of the hole as you are centering it also if initial hole wasn't on center. I've never used a jobber drill bit on these small holes in fiberglass.

[properchopper]

Properchopper, I recently added two smaller trimtabs close in to the strut. The boat is handling much better now and is a blast to drive. I now need to blueprint the bottom and fix the gelcoat chip that I caused when drilling the drive hole. The bottom back half of the hull definitely has some 1-2 mm low spots and the very back bottom edge adjacent the transom could use a little buildup it's opposite what I've seen referred to as "hook" in blueprinting a hull. This could explain the difficulty in keeping the nose down. How exactly should I go about blueprinting? I plan to use the bondo lightweight body filler, but then I don't know if I should use a polyester primer and speed coat like I've read the full scale drag boat racers use?? Any suggestions/direction you could give would be appreciated.

I use either Evercoat Formula 27 or Bondo. Just scuff up the area, apply, rough sand and finish off with an orbital mouse sander. My bottom is white so I use rattle-can white primer and sand smooth.

[Chilli]

Properchopper, The bottom back half of the hull definitely has some 1-2 mm low spots and the very back bottom edge adjacent the transom could use a little buildup it's opposite what I've seen referred to as "hook" in blueprinting a hull. This could explain the difficulty in keeping the nose down. How exactly should I go about blueprinting? I plan to use the bondo lightweight body filler, but then I don't know if I should use a polyester primer and speed coat like I've read the full scale drag boat racers use?? Any suggestions/direction you could give would be appreciated.

Get yourself a sanding bar and adhesive sandpaper tape. Great Planes manufactures it. Lightly wet sand the back third of the bottom of the hull with the bar. The low spots will be glossy. Mark the areas with a pencil and the rough it up with sand paper. Then add a thin layer of filler on the low spot. I use Marine-Tex for white hulls. I have even used JB Weld to sharpen up the trailing edge of ride surfaces. When the filler cures, sand with the bar. Try to get the trailing edges of the hull as sharp as possible. It may take several layers to get it right. You may also go through the gelcoat and get into fiberglass. Not a big deal but you'll want to put another thin layer over the glass to seal the exposed glass fibers. Then sand it again. The process can take several days but you'll end up with a truely flat ride surface. My main concerns in picking a filler is having something that goes on smooth, bonds tenaciously and sands easily.

Also when drilling holes, don't use a chordless drill. Use a 110 volt high speed drill and use very light pressure. You can also get bits for a Dremel tool that work nicely.

[riptide1]

Thanks guys, I can't wait to try this. Tomorrow I'm going to run with a new model boat club here in Charlotte. I hope to get some good video to post. Then next week off with the hardware and out with the sanding block.