1st Build - Insane Boats 34" Mono

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  • riptide1
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2011
    • 241

    #16
    Videos of Rico ...sorry I forgot the wide lens ...on 6s at times it looks with a blur across the focal area. I have the 4s video to slow it down and show the turns better ...if there is any hop it's from waves.
    4s2p 5000mah ---too heavy but it will run wide open for 6mins and everything comes back cool ...great for my nephews who visit.


    6s1p 5000mah with dead weight about 5oz. and trim tabs down 3 degrees ---comes back a little warm (will be raising tabs a little)



    Originally posted by riptide1
    I know it looks crazy, and you are probably right to suggest bringing them in. To start I wanted to duplicate the Rico setup that works so well. I will get you guys a good video of the Rico with the current Castle 1520 on 6s, doing 50 with no chine walk and cornering. I was second guessing it until I relooked at the pictures below. The hulls are very different, this 34" boat has a deeper V, so I mounted the tabs not all the way out touching the turnfin brackets like the Rico. The Ricos are currently set level with the transom, so maybe they aren't even engaged?? On another note, like yours is shown, people generally run their turn fins in a bit. Is it possible to describe the anticipated handling characteristics if you move either the turnfins or trimtabs in or out?
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]75557[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75558[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]75559[/ATTACH]
    Last edited by riptide1; 05-02-2012, 03:32 PM.

    Comment

    • MarkF
      dinogylipos.com
      • Mar 2008
      • 979

      #17
      The Insane 34 has a lot of v angle. That means it going to want to chine walk on you. The best way to fix that is to use your trim tabs. Trim tabs work best next to the strut. They don't do any good if there out. Trim tabs don't cause your amps to go up. Running your boat too wet does. You have to find the sweet spot between loose and to wet.
      Ark

      Comment

      • riptide1
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2011
        • 241

        #18
        The boat is now ready for a first go at it. I have the CG set at 9.5" which is 28%. Weight with 6s1p is a few ounces over 9lbs and 6s2p is right at 11lbs. For props I have a m445 and an x447. Guys what prop are you running on your Insane Mono?

        I was able to raise the tabs up a few mm for now. The strut angle is very adjustable, I have it set almost neutral. I am tempted to cut 3/16" or more off the strut length, but I don't know exactly what the result would be???

        003.jpg015.jpg013.jpg004.jpg016.jpg

        Comment

        • riptide1
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2011
          • 241

          #19
          Interior Pictures:

          I used carbon fiber plate for mounting. This hull is very spacious and easy to work around. The cap cooling consists of high quality thermal glue; strong, but you can still peel a capacitor off easily, and copper tubing and heatsink. This combination reduced heat by about 15% over the aluminum version with thermal paste that I had been using. I did have two defective capacitors that fizzled as soon as I connected power that had to be replaced.

          018.jpg019.jpg026.jpg030.jpg031.jpg

          Comment

          • riptide1
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2011
            • 241

            #20
            a few with the 6s2p option, and hatch detail. 033.jpg034.jpg035.jpg036.jpg048.jpg

            Comment

            • riptide1
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2011
              • 241

              #21
              Here are a few of the underbelly so you can get a feel for the hulls shape. I bathtub tested and it floats really high and light even at 11lbs.040.jpg042.jpg044.jpg046.jpg

              Comment

              • riptide1
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2011
                • 241

                #22
                I ran the boat yesterday morning and was pretty happy with the setup. The x447 didn't work at all....the boat was hopping like a rabbit. The m445 ran well. CG was good using the battery tray placement. For 6s2p I moved the packs back and hung 5mm off the rear. The tabs engage really well and I noticed that when I adjust them down it smoothes out the turning and took away a little hop. The 1717 motor got warm but kept the battery/batteries cool and the T180 cool. In comparison this is opposite the Rico, where the Castle 1520 stays cooler, the T180 is warmer and the battery can get hot. The run time was amazing ...I attribute this to only being at 80% throttle ...the boat seemed to get loose above 50mph when hitting a little wake and its hard to know when that will be. This brings me to the terrible news. While 6s1p is very fast ....after about an hour of short runs playing with strut angle, trim tab and CG I had her running good enough I thought to try to do 8 laps around an oval course to check run times and temp ....thats when the boat caught air then dunked The hatch flew off, the boat filled with water, and floated nose up. Guess what, I didn't have hatch floatation, so it's at the bottom of a nasty pond filled with geese crap, green slim and fish hooks I spent yesterday evenning inpecting, taking everything apart and drying it all out. I can definitely say that West Systems Gflex epoxy is the sh** nothing came loose. Now for the hatch locks ....they are very nice looking and a good product in theory but I have two reasons I will never use them again. 1st. the little pin can become uncentered after you have locked down your hatch and you will be out at the pond and find you can't get the hatch lock to release and now your hatch is stuck on ...the fix is to use pliers and twist until the aluminum above the pin breaks. 2. This episode where I lost the hatch was from the top flange(the part that gets glued on top of the hatch cover) completely breaking away, as shown in this picture of what's left. I think I'm going to use a nylon body post, rubber washer and body clip ...since I also have experience smashing 60mph oval track cars into concrete walls and never had this combination fail. I'd love to see some examples of what you guys do and what just plain works. 002.jpg
                Drum roll ...here's videos! I really want feedback ...do you think I can get it to handle race water at 50mph? Jeff at Insane Boats told me about a guy on here that added bondo fiber glass resin to the underside back edge and it has allowed him to do a 70mph pass ...Properchopper, what do you think?? I'm open to moving the tabs in, though they seem to work just fine, possibly shortening or raising the strut. I hoped for this to be a boat I can race in choppy water ...it's good now with the 6s2p setup at 11lbs, running wet. I hope to try to add like 12oz. of lead with 6s1p. and see how she does through the chop.

                6s2p with m445


                6s1p with m445 with dunking at end

                Comment

                • Remmie81
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2012
                  • 134

                  #23
                  Nice looking hull and nice setup!

                  Im happy for you that you were able to retrieve your boat!!

                  Did you tape down your hatch as well or only with the hatch locks?
                  I have no hatch locks on my electric boats, only on my gas boats. All my electrics I tape the hatches.

                  Comment

                  • riptide1
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 241

                    #24
                    Remmie, I did seal it up with tape, but since I was doing so much testing the first time out I guess the tape lost alot of its stickiness taking it on and off. Thanks, I wish you better luck on your current builds ...that Mystic looks sweet!!
                    Originally posted by Remmie81
                    Nice looking hull and nice setup!

                    Im happy for you that you were able to retrieve your boat!!

                    Did you tape down your hatch as well or only with the hatch locks?
                    I have no hatch locks on my electric boats, only on my gas boats. All my electrics I tape the hatches.

                    Comment

                    • properchopper
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 6968

                      #25
                      Rip,

                      Although my main experience with IB34's are with 4S2P setups, with a rtr weight of @ 9.5 lbs, I can see that your boat is running stuck to the water. At 11 lbs with 6S, the boat needs to break loose - guaranteed racewater will do this - even my 4S2P setup sticks on smooth water. You'll definitely go faster with 2P but weight is a factor, so run in chop & you'll see a difference

                      Mark F's boat, the second one out of the mold [the one Jeff mentioned] needed to add some material to the rear edge (so did I - mine was the first out)
                      The later, shorter strake hulls are ok in that area. In fact, Mark's newer hull is unreal with a 1527 on 4S but any hull could use some blueprinting - I'm still working on mine.


                      If you aren't getting chine walk your tabs should be OK where they are, but as you increase speeds and the hull airs out things could and likely will change.

                      You've probably seen these pictures, but here's how I lock down the hatch (way more secure and waterproof than the quick-release locks - takes a few more seconds to engage, but the hatch won't go anywhere the boat doesn't :


                      DSC02490.JPG DSC02486.JPG DSC02491.JPG
                      2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                      2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                      '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                      Comment

                      • rearwheelin
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Oct 2008
                        • 1941

                        #26
                        It's been a while since I have been on here , I can't see the vid links with my I phone . Turn fins look good :)
                        "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
                        --Albert Einstein

                        Comment

                        • gyrotron
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2012
                          • 481

                          #27
                          Originally posted by properchopper
                          Rip,

                          Although my main experience with IB34's are with 4S2P setups, with a rtr weight of @ 9.5 lbs, I can see that your boat is running stuck to the water. At 11 lbs with 6S, the boat needs to break loose - guaranteed racewater will do this - even my 4S2P setup sticks on smooth water. You'll definitely go faster with 2P but weight is a factor, so run in chop & you'll see a difference

                          Mark F's boat, the second one out of the mold [the one Jeff mentioned] needed to add some material to the rear edge (so did I - mine was the first out)
                          The later, shorter strake hulls are ok in that area. In fact, Mark's newer hull is unreal with a 1527 on 4S but any hull could use some blueprinting - I'm still working on mine.


                          If you aren't getting chine walk your tabs should be OK where they are, but as you increase speeds and the hull airs out things could and likely will change.

                          You've probably seen these pictures, but here's how I lock down the hatch (way more secure and waterproof than the quick-release locks - takes a few more seconds to engage, but the hatch won't go anywhere the boat doesn't :


                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]76113[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76114[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]76115[/ATTACH]
                          Proper,

                          Can you itemize the parts you used for locking down tha hatch? I am trying to securery lockdown a hatch for a 42" hull.

                          Thx

                          Comment

                          • properchopper
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 6968

                            #28
                            Originally posted by gyrotron
                            Proper,

                            Can you itemize the parts you used for locking down tha hatch? I am trying to securery lockdown a hatch for a 42" hull.

                            Thx
                            This should work for you : http://www.keithbradleyboats.com/?wp...hatch-bolt-kit
                            2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                            2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                            '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                            Comment

                            • riptide1
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2011
                              • 241

                              #29
                              Originally posted by rearwheelin
                              It's been a while since I have been on here , I can't see the vid links with my I phone . Turn fins look good :)
                              Randy, it's good to hear from you. I will definitely be revitalizing this thread after the holidays. The turnfins are working great...the boat handles turns really well. I have yet to figure out how to get the boat to handle the full throttle speed

                              Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

                              Comment

                              • rearwheelin
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Oct 2008
                                • 1941

                                #30
                                Originally posted by riptide1
                                Randy, it's good to hear from you. I will definitely be revitalizing this thread after the holidays. The turnfins are working great...the boat handles turns really well. I have yet to figure out how to get the boat to handle the full throttle speed

                                Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
                                You need a front spoiler ! Ha ha I don't know :) ..... Hope the weather back there didn't hit you too hard . ... I got a craving to build my Titan a couple days ago . Miss the boat building !
                                "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
                                --Albert Einstein

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