Matts CF Fightercat Daytona Build

[Mattwarner]

Its a standard size servo mount, however ive mounted the servo up underneath so the servo sits lower and gives me the clearance i need. I will also be mounting it partially over the stuffing tube again so i get more clearance with the hatch on.

[Mattwarner]

Quick update,

Pushrods have been bent to shape and the mount tacked in, esc is velcro'd in on a CF plate.

P1080168.jpg

P1080170.jpg

P1080172.jpg

P1080173.jpg

P1080174.jpg

[Gimp]

Hot diggity Matt! I really like the dual push rods!
Is that the windshield from FC? If so, is that the size or did you trim it down at all?

Just a heads up (and this may just be a picture illusion), you might want to add a bigger gap between the drive dog and the strut. The gap should equal the flex diameter.

[Mattwarner]

Thanks Gimp! Yeah it's the standard FC one, yours is coming on nicely looking forward to seeing it after you've put some clear on her, have you got your windscreen decal yet?

I'd like to clear over my decals but not sure how to go about it

[Gimp]

My windshield and FC logo should be here on Monday. I'm hoping to get her cleared either Monday evening or on Tuesday. She's all prepped and ready to go, just waiting on the postman lol.

If you clear over your stuff, scuff the paint with 1000-1200 grit wet. Do one or two very light coats over the decals so the clear doesn't run. Then finish off normally with multiple light coats and a thicker final coat. I have 2 cans to do mine. I'll wait a week or two after that to final polish it.

Hope that helps a little!

[Mattwarner]

Should finally be done by the weekend!!!

Found a great way of getting some extra cooling which i stubbled across when I disassembled the rudder and replaced the pivot rod with some brass for a propwash pickup, thanks to www.performancemodels.co.uk who do the parts in the UK which i forgot to order from Ben @ Fightercat at the start of my build i got an extra bulkhead fitting and outlet and some silicone cooling hose for the extra line, as well as a Skyfly GT3B and x2 Turnigy 3S 5000mah 40c-50c

P1000178.jpg

P1000179.jpg

Stealing the idea from Hydrojerry who used chrome washer jet covers which he sprayed black, i managed to find some carbon fibre effect ones from hong kong for next to nothing and i think they look great! and much better than they look in the photos

P1000180.jpg

P1000181.jpg

Quick question, i want to clear over the decals but I am worried about damaging the decals now they are on, I know I should have wet sanded it before applying but i didnt think about applying clear, I know from Gimps thread that U-Pol #1 clear is recommended but they also do this one? would this be ok if i very carefully wet sand around the decals?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEROSOL-U-Pol-CLEAR-LACQUER-500ml-BUY-2-GET-1-FREE-/390216524210?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5adab7a1b2#ht_931wt_1110

[Checkmateguy01]

Nice job Matt!!! Excellent build, can't wait to hear how she runs!! I see a trip to the auto parts store in my future, those windshield washer covers look perfect on there!!

[HYDROJERRY]

Looks great Matt, did you fill them with epoxy and put a screw in them threw the hull so they cant rip off,, and i had to wet sand my hatch to seal in the decalss it worked fine for me..

[Mattwarner]

What clear did you use? I am worried the corners of the lettering will lift if i sand over.

Ive just CA'd them in place but I will be doing something more permanent as otherwise first flip they are coming off! probably just epoxy them as they dont really have any way of screwing them in.

[Gimp]

Those scoops look awesome!

[HYDROJERRY]

I used Acrylic but i dont recomend it, the Upol is suppose to be great, sand as close to everything as you can then spray it, thats about the best you can do now.. i flipped over the air rams,cut a peice of cf to cover the front hole, epoxyed it in then used like a 3m bolt epoxyed the head to the inside of the air ram and after it cured i filled the rest of the air ram with epoxy till it was level the the bottum edge,, then drilled a hole threw the hatch for the bolt to go threw and put a nut on the under side,, then hopefully it cant get ripped off..and the cf you put to cover its opening will help to stop it from being a water catch, less drag if it flips, less chance for it to get torn off.

[Mattwarner]

Do you know whether the U-Pol ive linked to will be any good, ive found the one linked to in Gimps thread (U-pol #1 Clear) which is x3 the price of the U-pol Lacquer?

[Gimp]

Do you know whether the U-Pol ive linked to will be any good, ive found the one linked to in Gimps thread (U-pol #1 Clear) which is x3 the price of the U-pol Lacquer?

Hey Matt, I don't know what the difference is or if there is any. I will say it's worth the $$$$ because the clear determines what the boat will really look like.

[HYDROJERRY]

Gimp said it!!!
Matt i was wrong what i used was Lacquer so i recomend NO Lacquer!!! but i do recomend an automotive clear coat i think one of those part#'s is automotive clear i think.. my brother just got and shot some, i think was rustollium automotive clearcoat enamel on one of his boats and looks great im probly going to try some before i order U-pol..

[Mattwarner]

Guys how does the prop nut secure, mine keeps spinning off???? prop is running counter clock looking at it from the rear, Ive got a bullet style one and dont really want to thread lock it on as i will be trying different props

Also when bench testing there is a vibration when at high rpm? really smooth up to about half way, the driveline has plenty of grease and is smooth when i turn by hand with no binding I guess this is normal?