Matts CF Fightercat Daytona Build

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  • HYDROJERRY
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2010
    • 2503

    #16
    Looking good,, on the motor mount rear bolt holes try a small grinder bit and longate the holes in the carbon so you can move the rear of the motor up or down just a hair if needed,, good job on the carbon and the tubes in the rear!!! PS gotta have the decals or she just dont look wright,

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    • Checkmateguy01
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 376

      #17
      Cool, looks great!! Are those the "chrome" stickers? I bought a set for the windshield but i'm not sure what happend, he sent me 2 set's but neither of them are useable, one set (black) one of the "window's" is sliced half off and the other set (chrome) one of the "windows" is cut way short. Anyways, that carbon fiber looks nice and shinny, did you have polish on it at all?

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      • Mattwarner
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2011
        • 487

        #18
        Yeah they are chrome, I messed up the windscreen one and it's got a tiny crease so I will be ordering some more, the finish looks even better in the flesh and now it's dry all I did was give it a second extra thick layer of z-poxy finishing resin.

        Water jacket should be arriving today and I can tack the motor mount and move onto the stuffing tube, this is probably the stage I am most worried about getting wrong, I need to mount the motor as far forwards as possible and I also want to mount a vertical push/pull rudder servo

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        • Checkmateguy01
          Senior Member
          • May 2009
          • 376

          #19
          Originally posted by Mattwarner
          Water jacket should be arriving today and I can tack the motor mount and move onto the stuffing tube, this is probably the stage I am most worried about getting wrong, I need to mount the motor as far forwards as possible and I also want to mount a vertical push/pull rudder servo
          Yeah same here, i'm a little worried about getting the motor mount and stuffing tube location right, and also the correct angle too!!

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          • HYDROJERRY
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Jan 2010
            • 2503

            #20
            relax guys its not that hard, when your ready for that step im sure we'll all help with any questions..

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            • Checkmateguy01
              Senior Member
              • May 2009
              • 376

              #21
              Originally posted by HYDROJERRY
              relax guys its not that hard, when your ready for that step im sure we'll all help with any questions..
              Funny part is, i have quite a few years worth of expirience in the R/C boating world, i used to run about 5-6 different nitro classes in IMPBA, but this build is my first brushless cat hull build from bare-bones scratch so i feel like a rookie again LOL. The stuffing tube in a cat is a permanant fixture, in a mono there is some more forgivenes, i can pull the stuffing tubes out and bend them all i want to get everything aligned right. Also, the nitro hulls have stringers, you can move the motor mounts where ever you want, with this hull once the motor mount is set, it's set for good right or wrong! I know it's not gonna be to bad, i just want to make sure i get it right the first time and not have to re-do anything (like i have to with the mounting holes for the strut/rudder location).

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              • HYDROJERRY
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jan 2010
                • 2503

                #22
                yes, once the motor it set its there but if you have to you can use a dremel with a small cut-off wheel on it and cut it loose and move it,, when i do my boats i put everything inside about where i think it should be, get the COG as close as posible and then remove everything so just the motor mount is inthere, then mesure the floor from edge of one side of the mount and then the other and get it centerd then thats were i mark it to go,,remember to scuff it before you epoxy it, then once thats done i do the stuffing tube to line-up with it,, COG on a genesis or Daytona is about 9'' from the rear of the sponsons back edge..

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                • Mattwarner
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2011
                  • 487

                  #23
                  Did mine tonight and wasn't too bad, it's only tacked into place but the stuffing tube is in and bent to shape and the flexi fits nicely, once everything is cured the motor will come out and get fixed in properly. I didn't think about the cog as the batteries have plenty of room to mount and I guessed they would have more of a bearing on the COG.

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                  • Checkmateguy01
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2009
                    • 376

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Mattwarner
                    Did mine tonight and wasn't too bad, it's only tacked into place but the stuffing tube is in and bent to shape and the flexi fits nicely, once everything is cured the motor will come out and get fixed in properly. I didn't think about the cog as the batteries have plenty of room to mount and I guessed they would have more of a bearing on the COG.
                    Good deal Matt! Sounds like your coming along good!! I was going back and forth between installing the stuffing tube first, then mounting the motor/mount based on that, or mounting the motor/mount first, then doin the stuffing tube installation. I guess it does make more sense to epoxy down the motor mount first, then go from there. I'll probably work on mine over T-Giving vacation.

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                    • HYDROJERRY
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jan 2010
                      • 2503

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Mattwarner
                      Did mine tonight and wasn't too bad, it's only tacked into place but the stuffing tube is in and bent to shape and the flexi fits nicely, once everything is cured the motor will come out and get fixed in properly. I didn't think about the cog as the batteries have plenty of room to mount and I guessed they would have more of a bearing on the COG.
                      yeah but if you already have the cog close with everything in there then you can fine tune the cog by using the weight of the batts,,, it helps..

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                      • Mattwarner
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2011
                        • 487

                        #26
                        Couple of update pics, is this enough gap for the flexi to tighten up? It only just gives clearance for the prop bullet.

                        P1080009.jpg

                        I am using some 2 ton epoxy for the motor mount and stuffing tube and have used some CF cloth on the inside edges to strengthen.

                        P1080011.jpgP1080013.jpg

                        The servo looks like it will fit providing I use a low profile with sufficient torque, it will also cover part of the stuffing tube, my plan is to make a CF servo arm to match.

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                        • Mattwarner
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2011
                          • 487

                          #27
                          Had a spare few hours this weekend so got a bit more done, had a good idea as to how to fit the rudder boots, i used some off cuts of teflon liner which fitted into the boots perfectly so i CA'd them in and slipped the boots over the top.

                          P1080155.jpg

                          P1080156.jpg

                          P1080157.jpg

                          Picked up a digital low profile servo from Alturn, its rated at 8kg/cm so should provide plenty of torque, just need to bend the pushrod, any tips???

                          P1080158.jpg

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                          • Checkmateguy01
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2009
                            • 376

                            #28
                            Very cool!! Looks good! The servo set-up is quite interesting, i never would have thought of that! Steering shouldn't be issue using both side of the turning arms!!

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                            • Alfa Spirit
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Oct 2009
                              • 2131

                              #29
                              I use a standard size servo with tne same mount and good push pull linkage That' s perfect

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                              • HYDROJERRY
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Jan 2010
                                • 2503

                                #30
                                Is that a lowprofile servo mount if not youll probly need one for that servo,, you dont want it sitting high..looking good thow.

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