Shawn's Shocker

[nata2run]

Hmm ok. When you say put down 1mm do you now have a negative angle?

[srislash]

Hmm ok. When you say put down 1mm do you now have a negative angle?

Well they are now exactly level with the hull at rest on my flat glass surface.This is where the hull should ride.This hull has steps that go deeper at the front.Meaning each step gets a 1/4 deeper in the water.I did adjust them a little negative.From my 6s attempt with the 5018's I'd say this is a good move(I hope).If I go too much negative I will lift the transom and counter-react my tucked rudder that cleaned up my turning.I hope this works,we'll find out sunday.

[1945dave]

Prop-a Gator I wasn't going to make a remark about the yeild point of aluminum but Aluminum does not behave like other metals. Aluminum has a property called "work hardening". simply stated once aluminum bends it will bend some place else before bending in that same place again. Try bending a piece of scrap aluminum and then flex it back and forth and watch where the various bends occur. My point is if you bend the ears you should be good to go and the aluminum is going to be a little stronger at the exact point where the tweaking occured. That does not mean it won't bend some place else near that same point but the concept about the yield point weakening the metal is misleading. The real problem with this stinger style is we are asking a lot of the transom mount. nata2run is right your power is a lot of force and those stingers can not handle the torque. The pedestal support would make a big difference. Keep us posted.

Dave

[srislash]

This I have noticed when cleaning up scrap metal.Thanks Dave.It was just a little tweak so it should be fine.I think I'll be running on a dedicated lake now so hopefully it won't happen again.But if it does,pedestal stingers it is.Now that I have found some that fit.

[1945dave]

Well they are now exactly level with the hull at rest on my flat glass surface.This is where the hull should ride.This hull has steps that go deeper at the front.Meaning each step gets a 1/4 deeper in the water.I did adjust them a little
negative.From my 6s attempt with the 5018's I'd say this is a good move(I hope).If I go too much negative I will lift the transom and counter-react my tucked rudder that cleaned up my turning.I hope this works,we'll find out sunday.

How did you tuck the rudder? Did you use shims?

Dave

[srislash]

Dave, this is the rudder that I got from Brian at Rocket City on the right



And this is it on the left after trimming to size.



The other is the old rudder that I was running.Note that I had to drill new holes to make the new one fit.This is where/how it got tucked.

[srislash]

Today I got her out but only at the smaller lake.Up valley it was raining.I did aquire a bit of data though.

I put the stinger to an absolute neutral,it was positive before.It was only a 1mm change but it runs great.I don't think it had any drastic handling characteristics except for not lifting the bow on acceleration as easy. So I got a good(though short) pass with the 5018/3's on 6s.They did pull 151 amps and got me a recorded 78mph.I'm going to say 80+ if I can stay on it.

[1945dave]

Today I got her out but only at the smaller lake.Up valley it was raining.I did aquire a bit of data though.

I put the stinger to an absolute neutral,it was positive before.It was only a 1mm change but it runs great.I don't think it had any drastic handling characteristics except for not lifting the bow on acceleration as easy. So I got a good(though short) pass with the 5018/3's on 6s.They did pull 151 amps and got me a recorded 78mph.I'm going to say 80+ if I can stay on it.

What device did you use to record the amperage draw?

Dave

[srislash]

I have an Eagle Tree V3 Dave.Next is the Optical RPM sensor on the shaft to check real prop RPM.I think amp draw went up slightly when the props got dropped.Makes sense.

[nata2run]

"I think amp draw went up slightly when the props got dropped.Makes sense"

No expert here, but I don't think its due to the props being dropped (as in level with ride pads) , but more that the hull don't ride as it should. If I understand correctly, the props should be half way out the water and only the tips creating the thrust to propell you forward. Hull should only ride on the last few inches of the rear pads. If she runs too low "wet" there will be more resistance and you will have a higher current draw, and slower boat. I think in a perfect world it should ride like the attached image.

Ride.jpg

[srislash]

You know,I don't think I am too far off that.It is too hard to tell on that small lake.I will tell you this though,it sure takes a while to slow down.Hopefully this next weekend I'll get up to run on the course.I'll play then.
In that perfect world a little headwind would be bad...

I was just going over my ET data and Iam going to have to pay attention to how I am getting up to speed because in the little lake I am definitly punching it more so there are the 150 amps,down on the take-off.My first try with 5018's 6s was a bigger area so I eased into it more.

[masonis1]

I can tell.my motor and esc gdt hotter in my small pond then if i take it out in a huge lake or river.

Lots of start ups and mid range in the small. Tough on both esc and.motor
In the.big river or lake i keep it wide open almost the whole time. Wide open or nothing. No.in.between

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

[drwayne]

"I think amp draw went up slightly when the props got dropped.Makes sense"

No expert here, but I don't think its due to the props being dropped (as in level with ride pads) , but more that the hull don't ride as it should. If I understand correctly, the props should be half way out the water and only the tips creating the thrust to propell you forward. Hull should only ride on the last few inches of the rear pads. If she runs too low "wet" there will be more resistance and you will have a higher current draw, and slower boat. I think in a perfect world it should ride like the attached image.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]80964[/ATTACH]

Lower prop gives more penetration gives higher amp draw.
A good setup floats on air traveling through tunnel leaving just tips of steps tripping over water. Nose up attitude allows headwind blow overs.
Sounds like srislash is on the money.
If 150a launch is peaks, it is doing fine.
DocW

[srislash]

Thanks Doc.It'll get there,Reliably.That is my goal,that is my hobby.

[drwayne]

I have an Eagle Tree V3 Dave.Next is the Optical RPM sensor on the shaft to check real prop RPM.I think amp draw went up slightly when the props got dropped.Makes sense.

ET optical rpm sensor loses accuracy +20k rpm... was designed for hydrocarbon junkies ( other forums )
Use the brushless sensor..~$15USD .. good upwards of 50k resolution . simply plug the 2 input wires to any of the 3 motor wires, and it's a far cleaner data capture.
regs
W