47" Carbon/kevlar 2028 10s mono build.

[Make-a-Wake]

Yeah..........i know im on the low end but i have the rod way in on the horn so more torque there as well.........may have to go up, we'll see soon.

[Make-a-Wake]

Took a break from the tuff stuff and installed the cooling system..........large bore bulkead fittings and outlets. I like how it all looks.........btw i use large diameter neon yellow gas line from the local hardware store.

[ron1950]

looking good....cant wait to get mine ..... unfortunitly i am too poor right now to get the motor and speed control so its a winter project for me.....

[Make-a-Wake]

I think I'm about done..................any input or something i may have overlooked? I have enough flotation to support a large dog.......... Wires from ESC and Motor are ultra short too!

[millzee]

looks great, time to get it wet. Is it better to have the water cooling outlet at the top or the bottom of the can?? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that the other way around is the way to go.
Take the video camera, please

[Make-a-Wake]

Yep, water should exit from the top allowing the can to fill up completely. I should get it out on Wed.

[Make-a-Wake]

Almost forgot my hatch bolts!!

I used some fairly large stainless bolts and one bolt coming out of the front of the hatch and into a hole i drilled. This system has worked very well for me....never had a hatch come off and have had some serious flips with my Pursuit and 39" Mono.

Wednesday should be the maiden.......

[ron1950]

what did u use to close the dip in the back of the boat?

[Make-a-Wake]

what did u use to close the dip in the back of the boat?

A dense foam rubber piece that i cut to the contour and glued in, when the hatch is locked down it creates a pretty good seal...............i'll show pic tonite. You can actually see it in pic#4 above.

[RaceMechaniX]

Just a suggestion, I would recommend switching to silicon lines for the cooling. The Tygon tubes will harden over time and will not seal on the fittings when theu loose their elasticity.

Also, you should consider zip tying the cooling lines from the rudder to the transom fittings to the top of the rudder bracket. The lines will tend to sag and the prop will slice and dice killing your cooling.

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks for the input Tyler..............you are correct on the Tygon, i use it often and the ends kinda lose a good seal after a bit........then i cut the last 1/4" off and stick 'em back on.

Gonna get her out a noon Tomorrow(today?)..........Wed.................fing ers crossed here.

[Make-a-Wake]

I may as well show my lame attempt in the maiden cuz i know i'll get her right shortly.........bear with me.

Freakin POURING right as i got the hatch taped...........JD had to run for cover since he had to go back to work. Check out the raindrops as i pull into shore.

Thought i was 'close' to the proper COG as i like mine ridin' high on the pad, but 26.5% just isnt gonna cut it and i had an idea that it wouldnt...........partially due to how i wanted the batts to fit(lame reasoning there). I'll just move them up til i hit 29-30% and let her go again. It'll all work out.......just tweaking now you know.

At least she sounds mean!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbkIS5r-vzg

[Rumdog]

Oh, well. You know you'll get her set up right. That big boy is gonna rock!

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Rum.......

[Make-a-Wake]

Ok, batt repositioning is completed and she comes in at 29.2%..............much closer to where i should be. Now all i need are minor stinger/tab adjustments i would imagine.