Tweet
I got a kayak off craiglist for 120
-
-
That would be fine! Recommending plain swimming for an R/C boat retrieval hits a nerve due to the loss of a friend some years ago and another friend who had to be rescued on the way down for the third time.excuse for this english.i would say swim with my bogie morey or a small Canoeing
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
Guess you made it of the ignore list Howard lol! You could always wear a life jacket If you love gettin wet but some of the places we run might have a "RIVER MONSTER" or two
lol forget getting wet lol.
Comment
-
yeah, I'm thinking of carrying one as a backup with a life vest...
I know most ponds have rules against boating, but I'm sure if using the proper safety equipment and showing a specific purpose for the trip (retrieving a boat) that there would be some leniency available...
Here in FL swimming isn't really a viable option... gators and snakes... along with many other biting/stinging creatures...
Gators might rip up an inflatable craft too... so sticking with a composite material...
Mostly, I'm headed back to using a long casting fishing rod and a floating jig to snag the boat. So far that's worked the best for me. Thinking about mounting some hooks on the boat to allow the easy snag by the fishing line...FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
-
Ben, With all your motors why not build and easy foam boat with a cheapo motor and esc to push them back. I am about to build one. Was considering doing a vac formed version that I may sell cheap....all it needs is a cheap brushed motor and ESC and cheapo servo and a $16 radio.
Best would be a steerable outdrive which gives you much better handling to get it.Comment
-
Howard, his original post was this:We are all sorry for your friend but mike was not recommending swimming for a boat. He was answering a question and that was it. I think your pulling a Howard and overreacting....
but his second post explains it well. "Pulling a Howard" - LOL!! Not really, I have read too many posts over the years recommending swimming for an R/C boat. I will not back down from screaming that swimming is a terrible idea....there are few enough FE boaters as it is - we don't need to be killing them off.just swim and return it
Howard, did you ever try one of the v900 props? (I haven't been following the thread.) A v947 has 3.5" of pitch and has less torque reaction than a 50mm 2-bladed prop. Just a thought.
BTW, for anyone who still doubts that Howard has reached the 90s, here is a video of one of my 32" cats running at the 2006 NAMBA SAWs through the official timing traps. It is running 75 mph and it is clearly slower than Howard's cat. It was running 18 NiMH cells, about equivalent to 5S/12C LiPOs.
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
I did try a v947 but just didn't really like it. I did 75 with it on my 1st pass and came in and moved the batteries back and got to 86. At 86 it went into a flip, just didn't work good with this cat. The best prop is a prather 230 but only got to 90, I tried a prather 235 but it hopped to much to get over 70. The props need a pro to work on them. ABC was the fastest props but it also needs work. I was thinking about getting this http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ros-pitch-g but i don't know how hard it is to use. This 32 is going into retirement and some of its parts will be on my new 32. My new 32 will have a neu 1527 1.5D, im looking to see what the max S i can run with it?
I want to talk about drive shafts for the ones that don't know. The flex drive shaft is a hp killer. If you can keep from putting your motor to the front then do it, the shorter the shaft the better. Also the bigger the shaft the better. A small shaft is flexing and bending and the more hp the more this will happen. You will lose hp with a solid drive shaft but a flex shaft, forget about it. I would say anything over 2hp should have .187 or 5mm.
Comment
-
I did try a v947 but just didn't really like it. I did 75 with it on my 1st pass and came in and moved the batteries back and got to 86. At 86 it went into a flip, just didn't work good with this cat. The best prop is a prather 230 but only got to 90, I tried a prather 235 but it hopped to much to get over 70. The props need a pro to work on them. ABC was the fastest props but it also needs work. I was thinking about getting this http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ros-pitch-g but i don't know how hard it is to use. This 32 is going into retirement and some of its parts will be on my new 32. My new 32 will have a neu 1527 1.5D, im looking to see what the max S i can run with it?
I want to talk about drive shafts for the ones that don't know. The flex drive shaft is a hp killer. If you can keep from putting your motor to the front then do it, the shorter the shaft the better. Also the bigger the shaft the better. A small shaft is flexing and bending and the more hp the more this will happen. You will lose hp with a solid drive shaft but a flex shaft, forget about it. I would say anything over 2hp should have .187 or 5mm.
Told you long ago my friend that that next level of speed would require a good prop guy. If you need an address to a great one let me know and you can get them hardened too!Comment
-
You should try one of my wiredrives...i would make it special for your appComment
-
Just make sure when the set screw slips you get taken care of I didnt.
Totally forgot the sale but I still have my copy of the reciept.
Ive lost 2 props with the loctite method. If its high powered and you cant get a set screw on it id be wary of it.
A true pain in the
:
Comment
-
I want to talk about drive shafts for the ones that don't know. The flex drive shaft is a hp killer. If you can keep from putting your motor to the front then do it, the shorter the shaft the better. Also the bigger the shaft the better. A small shaft is flexing and bending and the more hp the more this will happen. You will lose hp with a solid drive shaft but a flex shaft, forget about it. I would say anything over 2hp should have .187 or 5mm.
If your flex is too small it will break much easier. I too would advise using a larger flex, but not because you end up with more power. Thats a bit backwards. I understand your thinking on this matter, that the flex absorbs power, but the flex doesnt have an outlet for that energy aside from shortening length or expanding diameter. If the flex absorbs too much energy, it will break. If you were to measure power at the prop, you would have more with a smaller diameter flex, if it didnt fail. We run across this all the time on our chassis dyno. A car with smaller/lighter tires, wheels, axles, ect. will net more horsepower at the wheels. Any time you add rotating mass you lose horsepower in turning it.
Im with you on using larger flexs, just not to increase power.
Comment
-
Huey cables are my pick.There are also some diy-ers that make them and they do a good job.Another member suggested you also watch for runout on your collet. That was excellent advice; something I though only the old schoolers where aware of.Comment
-
does the flex shaft get longer or shorter when running hard and should the shaft be a little shorter in the colletComment
Comment