HPR06 - Austrian Build

[ManuelW]

Air scoop

Haempu probably won't like my solution but I find it easy and convenient. I fixed it and then drilled three 2.5mm holes completely through the scoop and hatch. Then I cut M3 threads in the resin scoop and glued it with resin to the hatch as well as I secured it with M3 screws. Surely I have to grind the end of the screws and spackle the scoop but it should be a connection for eternitiy and looks nice inside too.







Lipo Rail System

For mounting the Lipos I use a self made lipo rail system, probably the best known solution. I made the design with a CAD programm, the parts were cut out of CFK material on a milling machine. Ground plates measure 71x350mm and are out of 2.5mm HF CFK material. The sledges are out of 2mm black GFK, I think it gives a nice contrast concerning optic. You can move the packs about 125mm and 4-6S packs can be mounted - way enough for that project. For bigger projects I make these systems quite bigger, in my Supercat XL one ground plate already measures 475x120mm (!), at the moment I'm limited in size of CFK parts through the available material at 1000x500mm

[ManuelW]

fixing the motor mounts

First I mount the motors on the mounts. As I still don't have the motors for this boat I used two LMT 1950 out of my HFK Prototype as kind of dummies. I need them to align both mounts as symmetrical as possible. Looks weird to me when the motors are not symmetric in a boat. The I position them in the hull and use a coupler and the flex shaft.
As flex shafts I use 5mm flex-wire from Gundert, I think its the best and strongest available. More common is the 4.75mm or 3/16" FlexWire but I'm not a fan of these. Then I adjust the mounts till I get a smooth curve in both flexwires.

[ManuelW]

Before I glue them in with resin I grind the right surfaces of the hull and the mounts, then I degrease everything with so-called "Bremsenreiniger". I didn't find a translation but it might would be "Brake Disc Cleaner".

Then I align the mounts again and fix them with some small dots of CA glue.

[ManuelW]

As you get dirty hands I have no photos of glueing them in, therefore I have to describe it. First I make a seam with some thickened 24h epoxy which I colored black. Then I laminate over each seam a layer of glassfibre with normal clear resin. Then I make the same on the other side of the mount. So each mount is fixed at about 20cm lenght with a resin seam and glass-fibre reinforcement.



mounting the drive shafts

After the motor mounts I fit the drive shafts, they are made out of a10/9mm aluminium tube. I make a smooth bend till the flex runs nearly without any friction and the tube follows the natural bend given through the motor mount. The water intakes are out of 4mm brass tube, you can see the position and how its built in on the pictures. The support of the drive shafts is out of 2mm GFK. After carefully sanding and degreasing everything I glued it in with 5min epoxy resin which I colored black to match the optic of the hull.

[ManuelW]

radio plate

Wolfgang likes scale optic and also a normal servo mount didn't appeal to him so it was the first time I built a radio plate in a boat. As it should be something special I designed it with a CNC program and it was also cut out with a milling machine. The letters are a groove in the surface and I think the optic is astonishing. With some motivation I'll paint the inside surfaces of the letters. The RC plate is mounted with glued in knurled nuts as sockets.
As for sure I used black expoxy resin as well as glassfibre reinforcements.

You may excuse the dusty optic of the hull but as I'm working all the time I had little motivation to clean it every time I make pictures. You may also see how I glued in the drive shafts and the water intake.

[ManuelW]

glueing in the lipo rails

I already presented the lipo rails, they are glued in using silicone. You may also use resin but silicon is strong enough as well and damps a bit in the case of a crash. They may also be removed whereas with resin this can get tricky. To glue them in properly I refilled the silicone in a syringe. The uper side of the plates I taped with Tesa to stay clean.

[Anbjorn]

Very nice build and well explained.
Thank you for sharing
Anbjørn

[ManuelW]

built in parts

These pictures don't really fit anywhere but as I like them that much I'll present them here at this point. They show a decent constellation of all the parts that came inside the hull. You can also see the four 6S1P 4000mAh 40C Turnigy Lipos which will be used.

[ManuelW]

Drives and Flex-Wires

This was a work I acutally did today. I glued the flanged ball bearings in the drives as well as the flex-wires in the drive shafts. For this I use Loctite 648. The drive shafts I bored up to 4.9mm on Flos turning lathe and sanded the 5mm Flexwire until it fitted perfectly inside the drive shafts. After glueing these parts together I put them in the oven at about 60°C for tempering and improved strengthness.
(Leave them inside and turn them after 45min until they are golden brown and crispy on both sides, enjoy them still hot..... )









So thats enough review for today and a lot of work is already done. I hope you may enjoy it. You can also ask questions or propose improvements if you like.

Best regards,
ManuelW

[JCAustralia]

Manuel

This thread is fantatstic and will undoubtledly be a reference to any boats I build in the future. Well done

Cheers

JC

[domp444]

Hello! Beautiful boat and I love your work. I would like to know what type of silicone you are using to glue in the lipo trays?

[ManuelW]

Well I can recommend to use aquarium silicone which you use for aquariums/fishtanks. Its also availabe in black and you get a nice optic.

Best regards,
Manuel

[domp444]

Thanks! I will try to find some.

[ManuelW]

Hello Guys,

and here another part of the HPR06 Austrian build - review.

Not-Aus

As far as I can see it here a "Not-Aus" is not very common here at OSE. Where I live I think its nearly a must have and also a need on every boat meeting. What it does: Disconnects the receiver from power supply, eg. UBEC or reveiver battery. What for: Its a safety thing, when you pull the "Not-Aus" and the controller (without BEC) has no power it can not run. So if you have to rescue the boat or just want to change props without opening the hatch I can only recommend it. Here I used 3.5mm female bullet connectors which i glued to the surface of the hull. But be aware: CF-Sheet conducts electricity, therefore these connectors have to be 100% isolated from the hull:



The built-in system can be seen on the following pictures!

Exhaust

As Wolfgang turned out to be an absolute scale fan I decided to make some custom exhausts for his HPR06. So basically I made a mockup from wood, used shrink tube and wax to get a kind of a positive mold. With some CF- and GFK sheet I laminated the "surface". After a bit of cutting and grinding I had the desired shape. Then I cut off two small pieces of brass tube and some CA glue to make the prototype and hoped Wolfgang would like them. On the photos you can also see the "Not-Aus", already with the male connectors in them.

[ManuelW]

Luckily Wolfgang liked it and so I could make the final ones. As brass tube was not perfect my friend Christian made me some exhausts out of aluminium on his lathe. First I wanted to polish them but then I decided to have the "brushed"-look. As it can be seen I glued a small GFK sheet inside the exhaust and drilled two holes in each one. Behind these I filled everything with expoxy and also put in two M3 nuts. So I can srew each exhaust with an M3 counter sunk screw to the exhaust. I hope you may understand.