HPR06 - Austrian Build

[ManuelW]

Hello Guys,

as there seems to be some interest, I'll start the building review of a HPR06 also here on OSE. I hope you enjoy. Beside this, where would be a good place here to introduce myself and tell a bit about me and my hobbies?

HPR06 - Austrian Build

Beside building my "Fort-Knox" (nice expression Gerwin) I'll also build a HPR06 for season 2011. With my Repsol I have already a HPR06 so a second one is not necessary. Only Hanspeters new C5009 Mystic would be worth a try...

So the HPR06 in this review is a remittance work, which I'll do for my friend Wolfgang. He has seen our boats on our homepage as well as on Youtube and wanted one. Thats why I should build this HPR06 completely RTR including testing and finding the right setup for the boat. The choice of the setup is mine, the demand is to reach about 120km/h (75mph). Its not intended to be a highspeed model, scale look and reliability are more important.
Therefore it will also include a second hatch with the cockpit glasses for the glass cabinet as well as some pilots inside the cockpit. Surely the boat will also get a nice paint job, maybe with some airbrush.

Setup

hull: HPR06 in CFK (carbon/fibre - newest Version)
hardware: original HPR hardware including hydraulic steering
engines: 2x Tenshock 2250/7 with WK
ESC: 2x 180A Seaking/Turnigy with aditional caps
lipos: 2x 6S Turnigy 4000mAh 40C
props: pair of Octura X442 to Octura X447
speed: personal aim is to reach 130km/h (81mph)
transmitter: Futaba T3PM 2.4GHz mit FASST
miscellaneous: lipo-rail-system, CFK-motor mounts, CFK-servo mount, Notaus, 5mm Flex-Wire v. Gundert, 6mm LMT-bullets (best in the world I think), bolted hatch, div. scale parts

hull

As mentioned the hull is a HPR 115 in carbon/fibre. Hanspeter has again improved some parts of the laminate, this hull is the up-to-date version, beside being a "default-laminat" if you can say that to his hulls. The seam as well as the finish are crafted beautifully. As with all of my hulls it had to prove itself on the scale. The hull has 1975g, the hatch 275g --> makes altogether 2250g or 4.5pounds. Its not an ultralight hull but a normal carbon/fibre hull with reasonably weight and exceptional stiffness.

Here some pictures:

[ManuelW]

(I still like the look of this hull very much altough it might be a bit old-fashioned compared to the new mystic design)

mounting the rudder

First I have mounted the rudder. For this I use double sided tape on the mounting surface of the rudder and cut the shape out as exact as possible. Afterwards I stamp out the holes for the mounting drills and adjust the rudder on the hull using a bracket and an even surface.The height adjustment is just with visual judgment, I think thats good enough.

[ManuelW]

Then I take of the rudder, leaving the template still on the hull. I mark the holes and pre-drill them a bit by hand. Then I take the cordless screwdriver and drill them through, followed by a short test mounting if it fits as desired. As you see, the screws don't look good, they need an even surface.
So I use my Dremel with a spherical miller and grind the inside before filling it up with black epoxy resin. At least I put in a suitable piece of carbon fibre for strength and optics.

[ManuelW]

Finally I use some extra-long M3 screws (stainless steel !), cut them to the right length and the rudder can be mounted.

[F1 madness]

Love these HPR cats,will be watching with interest

[Gerwin Brommer]

Manuel : Fort Know ? ;-)

[ManuelW]

@ Gerwin: Sorry for the typing, now its "Fort Knox"

mounting the hydraulics

It was also my first time to mount these hydraulic mockups but its really easy and just looks amazing. How have I done it? First I mounted the hydraulik steering to the pivot of the rudder and adjusted the two hydraulic cylinders parallel to the "rump" of the hull. This means a distance of 6mm (1/4" should be right as well) between the mounting parts on the rear side of the hull to the bend for the "rumpf". Then I aligned them horizontally and fixed the 2 plates with double sided tape.

Maybe its contingency but the stainless steel wire exactly goes through the seam of the hull. At least drill the holes with a 2mm drill - finished.

[ManuelW]

drives

Last parts of the original hardware are the drives. This is my way, maybe a bit unconventional but it works. First I fit the drives to the desired position, I don't try to fit them exactly to the apex of the rear side. As you can see on the pictures the mounting plates have an offset of about 3mm to the edge of the tunnel.

On the upper mountings I made a little fillet, now they fit exactly in their position. These are the first parts I mount first, as before double sided tape before drilling the holes and screw them to the hull. Afterwards the same procedure to the mountings on the rear side of the hull. They have to be aligned 100% parallel to the hull, for this I use an aluminium profile and drills in 0.5mm steps. I put the aluminium profile to the inner side of the hull and adjust the drive till the gap between the drill and the drive is even over the whole length. I think the right distance was 8.5mm. Then you can mount the drives.

Last thing to do is to drill the hole for the "Steven-Tube" (brass tube where the flex shaft runs inside the teflon. For the used 5mm flex-wire I use a 6/8mm teflon tube and a 8/9mm aluminium tube. To mount it exactly in the middle I used a self made bushing with 9mm inner diameter and the right outer diameter. Now you can drill the holes and the'll be centered.

[DISAR]

This is a real beauty.... an exceptional interesting thread.......

What kind and how many extra caps will you use?

[RaceMechaniX]

Great build detail, please keep it up!

TG

[Anbjorn]

Very nice Manuel.
I will be following this closely.
Anbjørn

[H2OCamel]

I love these cats!

[old guy]

[ManuelW]

motor mounts

For the motor mounts I made some models out of cardbord. Took three tries until I had the desired fit inside the sponson. The contour was lined two times on a 2mm thick CFK HT plate.
Afterwards the usual stuff, cutting it out roughly and then grinding, filing and drilling the holes. Used bolt circle is 6x60° with 25mm (600er can size). At least two clearances for the cooling circuit as well as for saving weight and the optic.

I'm really satiesfied with the result, they look as desired.

[ManuelW]

Securing of the hatch

Quite an often discussed topic here. Haempu recommends two screws and two bolts, I decided to use four countersunk M3 screws. They are easy, inconspicuous and strong enough for the desired performance. On faster hulls (like my own HPR135), I'd go for M4 screws and maybe also increase the number to six screws.
First I center the hatch "inside" the hull with leftovers of CFK/GFK plates because they are available in 0.5mm steps. When the position is fixed I mark the positions and then drill a 2mm hole through the hatch as well as the hatch border inside the hull. The holes in the hatch are bored up to 3.5mm and then I make the counter sunk for the screw. For the holes in the hatch border I bore them up to 6mm because inside I use M3 knurled nuts if you know them. They can directly used, you just have to grind them a bit as well as the border in the hull and after degreasing I glue them in with some epoxy resin. It gives a nice look too.