Ficken AWESOME!!!! I love those Sports. When I was younger, 1985, my Dad was purchasing a new Wellcraft. I begged him to get a Super Sport. He got a 250 Sportsman instead... Which is still a cool boat.
When I was a kid, my dad bought a 1979 thunderbird formula 302. Everyone called it a cigarette boat because that name corresponded with any large fast offshore boat back then. I thought I was the coolest kid on the block!!
These look like EP1's --- AQ's mounting instructions indicate that the cav plate should be even with the bottom of the hull. Your location maybe fine. Just check on the temps of everything after a 2 minute run!
A couple of us have done twin O/B builds and if you decide to, you can go to a larger prop if need be! Just need remove some of the water feed for prop clearance!
On my Cat build I went with counter rotating props and it went pretty well until the smoke appeared! Got to hot and I didn't check the temps & poof the Genie appeared!
Yes these are EP1 motors. Yeah I was looking at the mounting instructions for the cav plate hight. In full scale boats you have to put the cav plates an inch or so higher than the hull bottom for every foot away from the transom they are.
So on my real boat the engines are 3 feet off the transom and the cav plates are 3.5" higher than the hull bottom.
Shouldn't be much different here, though I know I am well over that. Keep in mind the motors are just dry fit right now. I have room to move them up or down.
I have already ordered 3 blade Venom counter rotating props with a slightly larger dia. If the motors run hot I will just pull the water from a hull mounted scoop and run a hose into the motor.
Another thing to keep in mind. This is not going to be built for all out speed and long high speed runs. This is more of a scale build and will only see short bursts of speed.
I dont think you'll need counter rotation on the props at the speeds you are going to hit. Plus, the clockwise motor wont like it and will obviously spin slower. I ran a twin EP1 brushless setup on a larger hull without counter rotation and it worked great until the brass bevel gears got eaten up.............and they are nearly impossible to find. Although your stock motors should be fairly easy on your gears.
I dont think you'll need counter rotation on the props at the speeds you are going to hit. Plus, the clockwise motor wont like it and will obviously spin slower. I ran a twin EP1 brushless setup on a larger hull without counter rotation and it worked great until the brass bevel gears got eaten up.............and they are nearly impossible to find. Although your stock motors should be fairly easy on your gears.
lol, so I guess they won't last very long with my BJ26 motor attached to them huh?
Looking good! i was thinking about doing a triple outboard setup on my a super hawaii hull i had laying around but was not sure if i could fit all the ep1's and how it would run. what esc where you planning on running? can't wait to see the finish product!
OK I did a test run, the boat is stupid fast for what it is. Even with the motors to high the boat fly's. I think some 3 blade larger dia props would help with the cavitation. I can bring the motors down a little too.
Drop your voltage and it will go slower or smaller props. allso you might want to stack several packs in parallel for more run time. Just a thought.
I could help you on the radar arch, I am a 30 year master Jeweler retired and build buggies for Rock crawlers. I would need some plans/drawings though.
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
Drop your voltage and it will go slower or smaller props. allso you might want to stack several packs in parallel for more run time. Just a thought.
I could help you on the radar arch, I am a 30 year master Jeweler retired and build buggies for Rock crawlers. I would need some plans/drawings though.
Yes I would totally like you to build me an arch!! Look at the picture of my real Scarab above. Thats what I want it to look like. It doesn't have to be identical but the same idea.
Once I get to the cosmetic stage I'll get you a some drawings and dimensions.
"Drop the voltage" Do you mean using batteries with a lower voltage rating? Wouldn't that also lower the top speed?
Forgive me, put a gas engine in front of me and I'll tell you how to squeeze every last drop of power out of it. I'm new to this electric thing.
Yes I would totally like you to build me an arch!! Look at the picture of my real Scarab above. Thats what I want it to look like. It doesn't have to be identical but the same idea.
Once I get to the cosmetic stage I'll get you a some drawings and dimensions.
"Drop the voltage" Do you mean using batteries with a lower voltage rating? Wouldn't that also lower the top speed?
Forgive me, put a gas engine in front of me and I'll tell you how to squeeze every last drop of power out of it. I'm new to this electric thing.
I will mostly need the height and how wide all the dimensions to make it, good pictures will help a lot, lots of angles.
I thought you were complaining about the speed being too fast. Yes it will slow down the top speed. Electrics like to be full out it is easyer on the ESC. to go slow there is a answer I am not your guy on that.
Randy
For ABS, Fiberglass, Carbon hulls and Stainless hardware BBY Racing
Yes I would totally like you to build me an arch!! Look at the picture of my real Scarab above. Thats what I want it to look like. It doesn't have to be identical but the same idea.
Once I get to the cosmetic stage I'll get you a some drawings and dimensions.
"Drop the voltage" Do you mean using batteries with a lower voltage rating? Wouldn't that also lower the top speed?
Forgive me, put a gas engine in front of me and I'll tell you how to squeeze every last drop of power out of it. I'm new to this electric thing.
If you are using the 11.1 volt lipos (3S) try dropping down to a 7.4 (2S) and you will go slower and closer to the scale speed you are looking for
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