Triton Build

[electric]

Here is an interesting layout picture I just found on the toysport site. That seals the deal for me, I am going to push the motor foward. Wish I could easily get my hands on some CF in Houston so I could do a bit more with the build.

[Rumdog]

You probably wont need the trim tabs. I'd go with the motor forward too. As long as the cg is right it won't effect the handling.

[Jedi Master]

Layout



Here's how mine was laid out. The motor is now listed in the 'for sale section'.
I ran it on 6s with a large K-series prop. 60+mph and very stable.

I can't wait to get another. They are an awesome hull!!

[electric]

Here's how mine was laid out. The motor is now listed in the 'for sale section'.
I ran it on 6s with a large K-series prop. 60+mph and very stable.

I can't wait to get another. They are an awesome hull!!

Too funny, I have your boat in the picture. Or should I say I have a second triton boat with the EXACT same paint job sitting in my garage. The insides are different. Hmm how is that possible? This explains why the finish is so nice, was your purchased with the paint scheme applied by the builder?.

[electric]

To show you, I just went out and took a few pics. Look.

[Jedi Master]

Yes, this finish is one of Joseph Toth's colour scheme's. It looks fantastic on the water!!

[electric]

Build Update..

Spent a great deal of time figuring out the right way to do the strut. After a lot of reading it goes like this.
1. Drilled out a 9/32 hole.
2. The 9/32 brass tube runs flush up to the stinger mount (but it will not go into it because the opening is 1/4")
3. The teflon Liner goes inside the brass tube and does come out of the hull and into the the strut. (goes in about 1/4" or more)

What you end up with is a nice set up where you can adjust the strut as needed (because of the flex tube) but you keep the water from flushing out the grease in the stinger.

I could have run 1/4 brass tube all the way through and into the stinger, but then the stinger would not be adjustable. This would also assume no liner being used.

This might be boring to most, but thought it would be a help to those who are new to it (like me) since this is only my second build.

The pieces needed are:
3/16 stringer strut
9/32 brass tube
.187 teflon tube
I believe I have that correct. Will check my numbers in the morning.

[electric]

Motor Placement

Well, I was thinking over the battery/motor placement and I think I ended up with something good. I pushed the motor further up in the hull to shift more weight foward, but not as far as orginally planned. Because of this, I can still put a battery up in the bow if I want to. The Toysport designer is doing that on a limited edition set up for more stability and less blow over. The thing I hit upon was that I carved out some of the servo mount and fiberglass tube mount so now I have the ability to push a 4s pack of batteries all the way to the back corner of the boat. This will be a big deal for the boats roll over to work well.

I epoxied everything down tonight. Tomorrow I will be working on lining up the brass tube and mounting the motor.

I have a used Toysport rudder comming to me in about 5 days.

[electric]

Oh, I need to show a pic of my water jacket. While I was playing around with batter placement I guess some how the postive and negative terminals made contact with the aluminum water jacked and I essentially did a spot weld. Wow all that with 14.4 volts for split second. That should be an entertaining pic at my expense.

[electric]

Moving along...

Added a brace for the shaft tube since it stretches out a bit and I figured the batteries might knock it off center. You can now see how the batteries are really going to sit and I think I will put the esc. next to the motor. Pretty much done until the rudder comes in. I do have some soldering to do. Also take a look at the damage to the water jacket from that electrical arc I had last night.

[electric]

Build is complete...

Well I have finished! All that is left to do is a leak test in the tub, check the placement of the second battery to ensure the boat rolls over correctly and then lay down the straps for that battery.

The last step is to also work out the decals and give the boat a nice look. I should be able to drop it in the water for a test run this weekend. I will hook the data logger up until I get the props figured out.

The hull came from Skunk Works , the rudder from Jedi Master(United Kingdom), the Neu 1521 1.5D from Boatman, the other Toysport parts came from Joseph Toth in Hungary, the strut and other hardware from Steven. You can definitely say this boat has parts from all over the world.

Next comes the testing....

[electric]

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[BHChieftain]

Hi,
Great build thread! Does she roll over with your battery placement? (I tried that config on my syncron and she would not turn over).

-Chief

[Jedi Master]

Awesome, I soooo miss my Triton!!!

[electric]

Stickers

It's amazing what somes stickers can do for a boat. Now I need to find/create some bold graphics to go on the side and some numbers on the bow.