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Oh yaaa Much better.... I got some adjusting to do but overall its like night and day. One little problem, I hooked it a few times. Probly a little adjustment. The next thing, the prop did suck some ait a few times, I had the feather the throtal and regrab the prop. The batteries got to 129 degrees so...not sure how warm I should let them get, there 5350 7.4 Poly RC packs. I will try a differnt prop next before I make any adjustments, going with the 1742-3 next.
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Keep the steering dual-rate trim at a minimum; just enough to carve the bouys on a 1/6 mile course. Ive found that a plain 'ole X442 works great, but a X642 for racing gets going faster but draws more amps [ OK for a 2-minute race on 5000+ mah]. Fun stuff, eh ?
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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The reason I went to try the 1740-3 and 1742-3 is because my first set up I didnt like so I called Octura and we talked on how to fix the problem but ultimatly it was the set up, so I will at least try the 1742-3, I also got a 4 bladed prop to try but I also will try the x642 and which ever one I like the best is what I will stick with. Since I dont race I kinda stick to the prop I like for my pond. If not there will be a few 17 series props up on swap...
I will tune down the stearing trim.
I wish I could get more choppy water going, they handle so good.... when I get her dialed in I will take a little vid. Thanks for the infoComment
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When your right, your right. The 1742-3 is not a good choice either. Wicked fast when you can get the prop to grab, but overall not a good choice. Both the 1740-3 and the 1742-3 will but up later on the swap shap... gonna go with my favorite SV prop next and I am thinking it will be the one... X642 next upComment
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The X642 is definatly the best choice of the props I have here to try. Still gonna give the 4 blade a shot after I balance it. I still think there may be a better choice then the X. I will do a little adjusting with the X642 and see if I can get it like I like it. The problem I see right now is this hull handles so good the SV power system may not be enough to make it hairy like I like it.Comment
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Hehehe like I said I got a little tinkering to do.. Got rain forcasted tomarrow, but I will try those props to I am easy..Comment
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You may need to trim back the cav plate to fit the 235... the 230 MIGHT fit...
Hang on!
OH, and REDUCE your runtime and watch your temps... Your boat needs to be dialed and running loose to run those props without desoldering a connection or worse... My batteries started to get warm with that setup... but I won the races... :D
You are driving a BOAT.... What, are you afraid it might get WET???Got rain forcasted tomarrow, but I will try those props to I am easy.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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threads very help full lol
now all i need is parts:thinking:snort pixi sticks=symptoms-:
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I like tinkering but also like the short cut of asking they guys who did it already...hehe Here is the new adjustment. For some reason I still feel the motor should be lower. Anyway I never did one so if something is wrong go ahead and laugh but just point it out so I can go fix it... What you think of where it is placed now. Trimmed enough or what should I adj.
Propchopper you see your handy work.
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I think you guys would be much happier with these legs:
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Here's the adjustment that works for me with a X442 or X642; before I raised it up higher vertically & trimmed the angle down the boat porpoised wildly in the turns; now corners flat. {A little weight in the nose helped too} This TS-2 had the bottom reworked by Darin, SJFE & I finished it up. Notice the sponson curves up a little at the rear; byproduct of not totally trueing the bottom. Also note the Hyperformance Angle Drive; just got it today from Randy. It's gonna' take some serious work to set it up for electric.I like tinkering but also like the short cut of asking they guys who did it already...hehe Here is the new adjustment. For some reason I still feel the motor should be lower. Anyway I never did one so if something is wrong go ahead and laugh but just point it out so I can go fix it... What you think of where it is placed now. Trimmed enough or what should I adj.
Propchopper you see your handy work.
Also I've been researching discussions on the distance between the pivot pin & the rear sponson tip; conventional wisdom seems to say [ along with Grimracer's instructions with the VS-1] that too far back & oversteer [spinouts] occur. For the VS-1 I'm foregoing that sexy jack plate & using a simple, closer to the transom mount to induce some understeer [slide] through the turns.2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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This is my thinking also. I've decided to go with the Dubro mount on my VS1 build for that reason. I was so tempted to go with the eye candy mount, but I really just want this boat to handle well.
BTW, properchopper, I am planning on copying your radiobox layout for my VS1 as shown on post 98 of this thread, unless you suggest otherwise.
Here's a big THANKS to Darin, properchopper, Ice329 and others who've contributed their expertise in this thread.
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All the angle drive needs is an electric motor mount.
You guys might like these for mounts:
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