42' Fountain lol.

First off I am glad to be on here, I am fascinated by scale rc's. I love the look of the Rio's hull, it is just missing the steps. Couldn't beat the cost,@$150 it is my 1st boat if you don't count the Traxxas Villain (before the Ex) I ripped apart when I was young and stupid.(20 stole the electronics) I regret it now. I have been messing with rc since I was 5, first hobby grade when I was 16(Rc10) and worked up to a FtRc10 Gt. I raced a little hated it, bunch of old guys yelling at the kid to get out of the way. Got back into rc when the Scx10 came out, I currently have 6 trucks, scratch built and kits, a 6x6, A scx10, 2cco1's a F650 tow rig Wip, and a jeep wip.
The Rio, the first mod was to tear off all the stickers, and laid down a silver base coat, going with candy red flames and metallic blue. Next shooting for a 25mph top speed for solid running in the local ponds, lakes and rivers. Probably going brushless when Ican afford it, currently have a couple old 7cell nNiMH battery's and a few mini 2s and 3s lipos including a big 6400 mah 20c battery.
Everyone loves pic's...
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psxcq4diqd.jpg

Upgrades...
First will probably be a prop and ESC, looking at the Grapuner grp-2317.40.
I have a momba monster,not pro and a 550 4pole 4000kv motor,on 2s that should spin up to 29,600 rpms is that to much motor /prop for this boat? Also planing on upgrading the motor mount, is there a recommended epoxy (budget friendly)to glue one in? Also planing on reinforcing the the back 1/3 of the hull, with the same epoxy, possibly replacing the stuffing tube as well.

Painted the final color Pactra Candy red,
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1sy77i5y.jpg
I ruined a flame mask, so it will stay 1 color.

Hey very nice, :thumbup:
That was my first rc boat to.
And still is one of my favorites to run,
I modded it to brushless after tweaking the stock brushed setup as much as I could.
4000kv is to much for that hull,
Take a look at some of my video's and see if that speed would work for your needs of scale looks.

I really like the way your Rio runs on this setup...
What is your setup? Prop? Motor? c rating of your battery? Speed control?
Thankyou for your replies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMT8...e_gdata_player

It;s Running a Seaking/Turnigy 120a esc & HK 3656 2600kv with stock flex shaft and a modded x440/3 prop,
I run 2s and 3s Turnigy 30c to 40c 5000mah packs or whatever I have on hand.:tongue_smilie:
Hear some more test post and info for you,
Let me know if you need any other info on the Rio.
Because it was my first boat that I learned a lot from,
With testing and modding setups on in 2010 till now. :lol:
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=modded+rio+ep
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=modded+rio+ep
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=modded+rio+ep

Do you need that much ESC? Could I get away with a 60amp? Only planning on 2s running. The prop I am assuming is a octura 3 blade, 40 mm standard pitch rh spin? Thank you for the links and replies.

Lower voltage actually takes more amperage.

I still like to run mine on 2s because it just a lot of fun and still pretty fast at 34mph,
The 60a turnigy/seaking with some add caps should do the job for it.
And yes the standard pitch & spin octura x440/3 is the prop that run nice and smooth for this hull.
I like using three bladed props on all my mono's to help stop torque roll on the hull,
And get a nice ride with pretty good speed to.

Photohoward, I am aware of electrical theory, thanks for the reminder.
Lenny, sounds like a beautiful setup, it will probably take a couple of months to go brushless, but that is the plan.

Much faster and the boat looks unrealistic imo. I will be ordering the prop in a week or so, (budget of about $10 a week). Love the look of a big Deep V during through the chop.

You may find some good deal in the swap shop on hear so keep an eye out,
For the prop and anything else to save a few bucks in the long run.
I made my trim tabs and turn fins from what I had laying around,
But they are pretty cheap to just buy and be done with.

I never did a build thread myself,
But hears some builds I tried to help with,
They didn't make it easy to help them sometimes. :hide:
But lots of good info to check out in them,
And hears a very nice flame job Rio I liked a lot.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ushless-System

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...with-stock-esc

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...=modded+rio+ep

Haha, just read those, :olleyes:
If I didn't want advise I wouldn't ask lol. I like to spend money once on good quality rather than throwing money away.:Sinking:
I like the setup you posted, so will be using it as money permits.:sold:
What thickness of aluminum do you use for your turn fins/rudder's/trim tabs? Lowes is great for cheap aluminum. Is 1\16" to thin or should I use 1/8"? Also read about using stainless knife blades.
Emoticons are awesome on here!
Sun poked out of the clouds today...
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psboueyssv.jpg

Yep, Hated by many loved by few.:moon:

Hears to them all. :beerchug:

I like a good deal,
The cheaper the better. :drool:



Looks real nice there when the sun out, :olleyes:
Could be having some fun snowmobiling or 4x4 running out your back door.



I used aluminum 1/32" or 0.84mm for the trim tabs and 5/64" or 2.00mm for the turn fins,
And also made my turn fins 1/2"longer and trim tabs 1/4 longer then the stock ones.
I picked up three rudders that are 3 3/4" long but had short brackets,
They where cheap in the swop shop for like $15.00 shipped.
And than I modded the rudder just a little and added a stand off to the bracket.
Rudder bracket is mounted from stuffing tube 1 3/4" over to the starboard side of the hull,
And the back of rudder to the transom is 4".
I also added a 3/32" aluminum plate to inside of the transom,
To beef things up there for mounting the hardware.

Wow that is a lot thinner than I expected.
I have some 1\8" , some 1\16" and 1\32", after I run it the mods will begin.

Looking @ the Leopard 3650 in the 2450 kV flavor, with a seaking 60a controller. 36 mm is 540 can dia right?
Also looking at the water cooled motor mounts, I am thinking about making vertical rails (aluminum) to mount the motor to, that extend to the transom and reinforce everything. Looking at some various epoxys to make everything secure.

I dissected the boat today, to get the ESC out.
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psw2gs2lp0.jpg

Hey that looks clean in there, And yes 540 36mm is what you want in there.
Not sure about the Leopard 3650 2450kv,
That is a PITA to get to the esc.
When my stock one blow out I just put the new one right on top of the motor water coil,
I think it stayed cooler there than in that closed hole.
The stock motor mount is still being used but the motor clamp screws pull out a couple of times,
So for the last few years the motor is just held there with hot glue till I do it the right way. :bounce:

This is what I was looking at when I just got mine and it was all stock like yours,
But I picked it up used for $75.00 on CL.
It was a Long time ago. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...IO-EP-Overhaul

This was my buddies AKA tunnelvision doing some testing,
That was till he hit a tree in the snow and took the bow off. :hornets_nest:
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...single-battery
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...io-in-the-Snow!

Yeah I have a problem/sickness...:cursing:
I haven't even ran the boat (brand new from lhs) and here I am tearing things up:tongue:.
So the electronics box is coming out, and the hardware will be coming off then I will be doing the transom brace/motor rails here pretty quick. It is also getting a full size servo and a brushless system before I ever run it:doh:

Yes you should have ran it stock a couple of times.
Than start doing the modding to it,
This way you see how far it has come.
I tweak the $hit out of my stock setup and hardware first,
Than when I started trying some brushless setup the fine tuning was already there.

Also just so you know on the servo rod to rudder,
I used the intake water line hole and moved the servo to the starboard side.
Than used the old servo rod hole for the water intake line.

As I said sickness... I cannot leave anything alone, from my 1:1 to my rc's.
They all have to be unique one of a kind... Mine!:rockon2:

To be fair I should get on and run this thing at least once stock.:blush:

I put the boat back together today... Dynamite 12t ESC wired in and a big 4000mah lipo in the stock location just have to swap out the battery leads on the ESC...
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psj3n8uxxl.jpg

Funny thing I have owned this boat 1year 3 months and it hasn't touched the water. I live within 300yards of a creek that should be deep enough most of the year to run, though it does freeze over in the winter. It will run this Summer!