my new 1/8 scale Squire Shop neu 1527 1.5y

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  • klloyd67
    Member
    • Jun 2017
    • 55

    #31
    Are your batteries in the engine well or under deck?

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    • meangenesracing
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jun 2012
      • 1160

      #32
      Originally posted by klloyd67
      Are your batteries in the engine well or under deck?
      here you go
      Attached Files

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      • cybercrxt
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Mar 2009
        • 2909

        #33
        That boat looks awesome Gene. I had built myself the same hull a while back, Doug S. owns it now...Yours looks better, lol! Mike
        Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.DINOGYLIPOS.COM

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        • daveweagel
          Junior Member
          • Nov 2017
          • 4

          #34
          Originally posted by meangenesracing
          here you go

          do you mean that arc burned connector caused the power loss ?

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          • CraigP
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • May 2017
            • 1464

            #35
            Snapping your connectors and caps is very detrimental to the integrity of both components. It’s actually more harmful to the capacitors. Depending on the size of cap banks used, these surge current can easily go over 1000A! This causes separation of the dielectric from the aluminum, or air pockets in the cap. It’s so unavoidable by using a pre-charge alligator lead with a 10 Ohm resistor in the middle. Many argue this point, but there’s no arguing the cap and connector degradation.

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            • daveweagel
              Junior Member
              • Nov 2017
              • 4

              #36
              Originally posted by CraigP
              Snapping your connectors and caps is very detrimental to the integrity of both components. It’s actually more harmful to the capacitors. Depending on the size of cap banks used, these surge current can easily go over 1000A! This causes separation of the dielectric from the aluminum, or air pockets in the cap. It’s so unavoidable by using a pre-charge alligator lead with a 10 Ohm resistor in the middle. Many argue this point, but there’s no arguing the cap and connector degradation.
              Craig,

              thank you for the information.

              here's the esc I have in my 8S 1/8 scale.

              arcs and snaps every time I connect the red battery cable with the jumper.

              the connector is arc burned more than the one in photo above.

              I have not water tested my boat yet so I don't know if it will run under load.

              please post photo of alligator clip - resistor set up you mentioned

              thank you
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • CraigP
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • May 2017
                • 1464

                #37
                Here’s the cable assembly. The alligators are available on the ose site. The resistor is a 10 Ohm, 1/2w, 5% carbon comp. those specs aren’t critical, should be able to pick up at a local electronics parts house. They are also available from Mouser Electronics, or Mouser.com under part number 791-RC1/2-100JB, very cheap. I clip one side on the loose wire and the other on the connect point. I wait 5 seconds, take off the jumper and plug in. I keep my BEC and ESC OFF until I get the main leads connected, then power up the transmitter, then the boat. If you don’t have switches, then you got to move pretty quick because the caps will get discharged with the electronics ON.
                Attached Files

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                • daveweagel
                  Junior Member
                  • Nov 2017
                  • 4

                  #38
                  Originally posted by CraigP
                  Here’s the cable assembly. The alligators are available on the ose site. The resistor is a 10 Ohm, 1/2w, 5% carbon comp. those specs aren’t critical, should be able to pick up at a local electronics parts house. They are also available from Mouser Electronics, or Mouser.com under part number 791-RC1/2-100JB, very cheap. I clip one side on the loose wire and the other on the connect point. I wait 5 seconds, take off the jumper and plug in. I keep my BEC and ESC OFF until I get the main leads connected, then power up the transmitter, then the boat. If you don’t have switches, then you got to move pretty quick because the caps will get discharged with the electronics ON.


                  thank you Craig

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