Starting 1/8 scale T5 build, need critique of my proposed setup

[nichismo]

well, I just purchased an outrunner, the gentleman had this in his possession for the past few weeks and I flaked on buying it from him repeatedly. Thankfully he was very patient and hadn't sold the motor to anyone else in the meantime. Its a Hyperion 4035, 800kv just like I mentioned earlier. at only 85$, it was about half the price of a new Leopard 5698.

I think I may sell the Leopard 5698 I have, either that or use it for another project, I may keep it until I actually work out a solid mounting solution for the outrunner just in case any issues arise. I have already devised how I am going to fabricate one, it should be fairly easy to attach a plate to the legs fiberglassed to the floor for the 56mm mount, and I am going to watercool it as well. Its pretty simple in RC boating, but I have built several custom liquid cooling systems for high performance computers and have a good understanding of thermodynamics in this area, so im a little intrigued on how to get a little extra cooling with an outrunner.

As this is my first boat, I havn't even had any experience driving, and that concerns me a bit. I really believe I need a little bit of practice, and ive been led to believe that I cant run at half throttle constantly as it will impede the cooling ability towards the ESC and motor. I think the 4800 batteries should be sufficient for now. The sub hatch and lip assembly were one of my biggest concerns going into this build, and I knew from the get-go that I wouldn't be using a flat lid. Although it turned out pretty good and im happy with it, I still don't want to test it anytime soon, the thought of potentially flipping the boat or damaging this hull that cost me a fortune for my income along with time and effort to prepare terrifies me.

I will have more pictures for upload in the next few hours hopefully, I really want to get the wing tabs epoxied into place. while its drying, im going to sand the bottom of the wings so that they match the contour of the hull decks. The cowl reinforcement and flotation, along with the mounting system and turbine tray should get finished tonight as well hopefully.

[Agitator]

You need to contour the vertical wing to the area they mount, not after you glue the tabs in. That is the part of the boat you are contouring to. Can't do that with the brackets in the way.................

[nichismo]

good point. thanks Michael.

Im sending you an email here in a few minutes, i had a rough draft saved (I had alot of questions lol), but I lost it and had to restart.

ive cut and filed one tab so far, it looks and fits great :) You really did an amazing job with these, I would have thought you own the same hull if I didnt know better.

[nichismo]

hey guys , got another minor update and pictures I wanted to share.

I glued two lipo straps to a small sheet of 1/32" thick plywood, and glued that into the battery area so I can more thoroughly secure the lipos to the floor. I'm going to maybe glue a thin strip of rubber to the end of the ply just in front of the motor mount to prevent any potential sliding as well, but I'll wait until the batteries are here for that. I was wondering, I heard NAMBA has a limit of 10000mah per lipos setups, does that mean 2p can only 5000 each, or do they not add together?

I also finished cutting and filing both wing tabs, and I scuffed and scratched the bottom surfaces to create a good bond with the floor. After I cut the slots in the deck, I took a vacuum and turned the hull upside down to get as much dust as possible cleaned up. The slots ended up being a tad bit too wide, so I used a pretty thick mixture if epoxy with colloidal silica, and there's a decent amount of sanding I'll have to do to clean up the area before I slide the wings on.

I started cutting into the sub hatch cover to add the extension box. when I made this cover, I wanted to make it very precise, so I used a sheet of 1/32" thick ply so I could easily cut it with an x-acto knife and a ruler, then after it was cut out, I traced around it onto another sheet of 1/32" ply, cut out that piece and then glued them together. finally I sanded the edges so they blended together, and so now the cover is technically a 6 layered piece of 1/16" thick ply lol. it's very strong compared to, say, 1/16" basswood. cutting into it now with an x-acto has been alot tougher. but ill be finished soon.

I'll be mounting the turn fin and finishing up the rudder work, just need to mount the servo and connect the linkage. I'm going to buy the Futaba 3PL soon as the rest of the boat permits. I believe I just need that along with its reciever, a prop balancer, a lipo charger and perhaps some other minor hardware before the boat can technically be ready for her test run, aside from the obvious body/paintwork.

I've gone around and tried to locate as many pinholes as possible, soon ill post pictures of the work that needs to be done before I can primer. it's going to be a pretty lengthy and strenuous process so i can use all the help I can get, especially from anyone who has had alot of experience with epoxy fiberglass parts. I've filled some bigger pinholes with a little bit of thickened epoxy, I'll go around the hull with a small bit of glazing putty, and then the last bit will be filled with my mixture of Klass Kote and talcum powder, as I'm going to brush/roll on the first coat.

you guys are welcome to email me at [email protected] for any personal insight, I really appreciate any help on this stuff, it's all new to me :-)






I

[nichismo]

[nichismo]

hey guys, just realized its been a while since I last did an update. I have been really tense about finishing this up, the amount of trial and error along with my indecisiveness have reached all time highs so far..... lol.

But im really getting close to finalizing my setup and im going to be setting up my makeshift paint booth for my first coat of primer soon. I recently undertook a fairly lengthy modification to my hull, I basically made myself a new belly pan so I could have more floor depth and thus more headroom. As a result, both 10s and obviously 8s setups are right at home up in front near the cockpit. This mod also gave me a fresh floor to work with on mounting the 4035 outrunner.

ive nearly finished the sub hatch cover and remaining woodwork, I just want to chop the top on the hatch as the extension is too tall. Once I finish my cowling reinforcements and setup the magnets, and the rear cover/tray setup, ill be sealing all the wood with some west epoxy, a brush, and a heatgun. floatation needs to be installed in the hull and cowl as well. Ive also made a halfway decent dummy turbine from PVC, craft foam and 1/64" ply, ill post pics of that soon.

The servo and rudder linkage is about to be setup. Im happy with how its turned out, I was able to securely mount the holder to some ply with T nuts behind it thats epoxied up against the outside of the engine tub wall. I just need to measure and cut the carbon tube and steel rod, glue them together, drill respective holes and then setup pushrod seals.

ive bought both an 8s and 10s sets of lipos from Revolectrix so I can get more acquainted with their power and overall driving. Im just waiting on my radio gear(went with Futaba 3PL) and the charger and ill finally have everything to finish for the maiden voyage :) Still weeks away but I plan to run after primer is done.

dont have that much pictures yet, but I will load more soon:

[nichismo]

few more pictures.

2015-07-02 05.31.36.jpg20150702_052333.jpg2015-07-02 05.33.04.jpg2015-07-02 05.30.44.jpg20150612_032526.jpg

[nichismo]

Just a minor update with pictures guys. I redid my sub hatch for the last time, and now with the deeper belly pan mod and a higher lip for the sub hatch, there is room for pretty much any 10s setup.

Ive started filling pinholes and repairing any imperfections or flat spots. Also, I modified the sponsons by rounding the tips into a more curved shape to be more true to scale. Next i plan to shorten the picklefork depth a few inches as its a far too deep to resemble a modern day T5, and the sides flanking the cockpit need to be offset as well. Once i finish these ill begin priming.

[nichismo]

Some more pics. I also got my floatation installed and most of the magnets and dowels installed, i just need to cut a few of them .

[nichismo]

hm, it appears that everyone but myself has lost interest in the status of this boats construction, but nonetheless I will continue to update progress, and in all honesty I'm very happy with where it's at now. perhaps if it was a wood constructed hull im sure that wouldnt be the case...

I mentioned in the last post that I did a little modifying of the sponson tips to make them more true to scale of modern unlimiteds, and since then I've gone ahead and done some more thorough modifications to the hull for the same reason. I'm extremely happy that I took the time to do this, I was very suprised at how easily I missed certain features of the hull that are no where near accurate of the full size boats today. in particular, I shortened the pickle fork depth and offset each side that's flanking the cockpit, and im stunned at how much better the boat looks now as a result. I also cut off part of the ram wing to thin it and I'll be doing a few minor changes to the transom area to finish it off.

I have very few things left to complete until my maiden run, but a few them I absolutely need some guidance on as being this my first build of any kind RC ever. Mainly, programming my ESC and motor settings, lubrication for the flex shaft, proper Temps, and just general precautions I should be aware of.

as of now I need to finish the cowling reinforcement and mounts, clear coat seal all the wood, finish sanding and scuffing the hull in preparation for paint, and check the COG and weight again to perhaps add some weight to the sponsons.

here's some pictures

[nichismo]

more

[nichismo]

sponsons look much much better, with the longer picklefork before and pointy sponson tips, hull didn't look much at all like a modern day T6 like it should

[Speed810]

Hey Nick....

Boat is looking great....be interesting to see what the modifications will do for performance. What scale boat were you going to paint it in? colors..etc?
Like what you did with securing the wing feathers and the hatch work is looking really nice. It seems endless at times...when we keep changing things to get a better fit or a better look....LOL

Hey don't worry about folks not getting onto the thread....Mine is the same way for the most part...Just have to remember its summer and most folks are either out vacationing or running their boats during this time of the year...LOL I've been watching it through out your progress and your look-in good man...

I see your running into the same thing I did with all the pin holes and defects in the fiberglass. Amazing how they just pop out when your trying to sand everything down smooth....LOL I finally went to my West System Epoxy with micro filler that I thinned down slightly and wiped a thin coating over every fiberglass part I had. Then sanded and filled over with the glazing putty if needed. Even after all that I still missed a few here and there.....LOL

As far as your ESC programming there should be information that came with it regarding the programming. If its anything like my ETTI ESC, its just a bunch of beeps and tones to indicate where you are in the programming sequence. Kind of a pain in the butt. Now if your lucky maybe you have one that you can buy a programmer for....Now that is the way to go...makes things very easy.

I'm still using my old Grimm Racer drive-line grease for lubricating the drive shaft. Don't think you can go wrong with that. I know there is a nice fitting up on the shaft tube, but I have stuck with the regular way of greasing the drive line for now until I learn more about what the guys are using through the grease fitting. I'll be going out to the pond this Sunday for a day of racing (including my new 1/8 scale)....so I'll be talking to the guys on a lot of different things from drive-line lube to set ups and props.

As far as temps go, most of the reading I have done indicates that it should not go above 170 to 190 degrees. Now after I was finally able to get my hatch off (which took about 2 min.) the ESC was just warm...maybe 100 degrees. The motor was registering about 130 degrees......So I figured with the amount of time that passed the ESC may have gotten up to about 130 to 140 and the motor may have been around the 160 to 170 mark...maybe slightly higher.
Have to see what the guys at the club think....I'll relay that to ya next week.

What kind of paints are you going to spray?


Keep up the good work!!!

Mike

[nichismo]

thanks! well I've had in mind that if I indeed get the boat painted, I'm going to go with the U-22 Websters Racing , the red blur and white,*!** they have donned a Matrix systems sponsor ship recently that is probably most recognized.*!**

I've still got a good amount of very tiny pinholes and imperfections, but I'm done with that for now, I just need to scuff for the primer,*!** which I'll be doing very soon. just need to finish smoothing out the ram wing area and then seal all the wood.

for my paint plan, ive actually got a somewhat unorthodox approach planned but I'm confident it will turn out nice:

I've bought some white epoxy primer, catalyst and reducer from Klass Kote, ive heard nothing but positive stuff for this, I've heard it's almost bulletproof, flows and fills amazingly and wet sands great too, exactly like k@b super poxy and hobby poxy. For my 1st coat, I'm going to mix just the epoxy and catalyst (no reducer) with some microballoons to make a heavy cream type liquid, and then Ill brush/roll it on.*!** After about an hour or two,*!** the leftover primer will have thickened and I'll go around the hull looking for any imperfections,*!** and I'll just gob on the remaining primer. After it cures for a day at least, I'll take it outside by the garden hose and wet sand it until I get the finish I want.*!** Finally, I'll go and mix some reducer in a new batch of primer and do a couple real light airbrushed coats before painting.

I'm honestly not sure if I'll actually get this boat painted, because i might sell it here on OSE, and if i do, i want to leave the choice of paint up to the buyer.

this may sound crazy, but ive got another 2 hulls coming that I'm more keen on investing in. the first is coming from Steve at RCBOATCOMPANY and should be here next week, I've waited about 14 weeks for it. and yesterday , I just spoke with Mike L and ordered a scale laser cut kit, my first :) I'm going to wait until it gets here and a thread is made before I share what that one is :) but the other boat is very nice, all carbon fiber with the drop sponsons so I can do the white and blue beacon plumbing. the Hyperion 4035 is going in this T5, but I have a NEU 1527 1.5y with a custom mount from Peter zilcha that ill be using in that hull, 10s too :)

[Speed810]

Nick....

Sounds good..!!
So what is finally going to end up in this boat for power? Batteries...etc? Do you have any idea what the finished weight is with batteries, motor, ESC and all hardware? I'm interested to see what it comes out at.

What scale kit did you get from Mike at ML Boatworks?

Dang....your going to have projects all over the place.....LOL

Mike