Starting 1/8 scale T5 build, need critique of my proposed setup

[nichismo]

few more pics

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[rearwheelin]

Sup guys, just thought id post an update.

I made some progress on my build, I'm starting to gain some confidence with this whole process, I'm not so hesitant to make my own judgement calls now lol. After today, I feel as though I completed most of the stuff I was most concerned and oblivious to going into this project.

so again I decided to use a different mounting setup, But for the better. I ended up cutting two slots into the foam like Phil and Michael recommended, and then I glued two angled wedges into them, along with a base plate on top of those for the actual mount. after the epoxy dried I fiber glassed the mount to the base, and I also fiber glassed the bottom of the foam slots before putting the wedges inside. It was sort of a PITA to fiberglass the motor mount legs to the wooden base plate due to the narrow and thin shape of the cloth I was using, and as a result it doesn't look to great right now. Im going to sand and file most of the stuff on the top of the mount legs and just leave the rest the way it is. Mainly it was for peace of mind, It felt a little unsafe using such a big motor in a mount of such simple stature in this configuration.

So I got the 11/32 tube and stuffing box mounted, it's strong as hell! First i placed some 3/16 blocks around the slot in a U shape, and sealed them with west epoxy. then I used a 1/4" drill bit in the collett to line up, and then I used a little JB kwik to tack the tube into place, and after a few minutes and cleaning of the area and taping the bottom, i poured in a couple coats of west epoxy and silica. After they all dried a bit, i glued the top cover on the stuffing tube box. I was hoping to be able to use one of the oil mount fittings here on OSE, but I dont think I will have room for it now, so perhaps ill just solder a small piece of tubing on or get a Tbar with an oil fitting. Now that I finished that stuff, i Got Alot Of Cleaning and accommodations of the area to do for the last few components, like fairing and smoothing out the bottom exit of the tube, and theres extra epoxy dried up all over the tub floor plus the holes I had to fill in from the last mount setup I experimented with added to the mess...... but I'm pretty happy with how i did overall. :)

Additionally, the newer Swordfish 240hv ESC that I bought off the marketplace arrived today. Its much nicer and I feel much better with this one, but its far bigger than I was anticipating! And I dont have a top plate to mount the ESC with my motor anymore, so I am really wondering where I can place this without compromising performance or battery pack position.

Lastly, I used a rotary tool and started cutting out the windshield holes and air scoops. I want to add the ply doublers and begin paint prep on the cowling, but I know I need to finish other stuff first. Mainly, I need to devise and complete the lip and lid for sealing the engine tub with a sub hatch. At first I was thinking I would just do it exactly how all the common ML 1/8 scale hydro kits are, but then I was looking at the MLboatworks/PTI Tunnel FE kits and I really liked how those radio box lids are setup. So for now, I am going to slightly draw inspiration from those. Ill have more pictures up ASAP with that whole step, because Im sure I will having tons of questions and problems throughout.

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I'm so frustrated that I couldn't get to you sooner on your motor mount conflict ions with this build ! I would be mor than happy to send you this mount for trade on the 2 you purchased . After you are sure you like it , having it in your hands to size it up. Taking the one you have in there out isn't much trouble with a dremel tool and a shop vac. Mount vid , flip the motor plate over for your application :

http://youtu.be/XpFWqtuRkgI

[nichismo]

lol ya its sort of crappy how it ended up in a sense, I mean im happy that I finished it finally, but the fact that the mount I ended up with was the cheapest and first one I bought.... Just goes to show how oblivious and unprepared I was dimensionally.

I have actually removed the motor plate that the screws go to quite easily, I thought it would have been difficult because of some loc-tite I had poured into the mount threads hoping to strengthen them a little bit from vibration. Thankfully they came out easily without having to apply too much force, I was a little hesitant to do that as I had just set up the whole mount and epoxied everything, I wasn't sure if cure time had completely passed. I was able to drill a couple holes in the top and counter sink them so that the screws would sit flush and not interfere with the motor attachment. Im going to get some velcro and straps and mount the ESC just as I intended before. However, I am still a little bit concerned with the size of this, its coming awfully close to the adjoining wall of the cockpit and cowling, I was already planning on cutting alot of that out once I had the cockpit and cowl epoxied together, but it seems like that may not be enough. Not to mention having to fit the sub hatch cover inside too, while leaving enough surface on the outside rim of the cover for tape sealing.

Nothings ever simple with scale hydroplanes is it? heh

Well I finally recieved my 3 foot length piece of 5/16" brass tubing! now I finally complete the flex shaft assembly. I only have 2 pieces of this tubing so I need to measure like crazy and make sure I get it right quickly, I really dont want to have to order and wait on more of these.

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[nichismo]

......aaaaand the 3' brass 5/16" tubing I bought is thicker than the typical K&S brass tubing were all familiar with!

LAME

[phil t]

......aaaaand the 3' brass 5/16" tubing I bought is thicker than the typical K&S brass tubing were all familiar with!

LAME

You should use the thin wall tube the thick wall is not enough clearance for the cable to run in.

You need the .014 wall tube, it is a KS 1151 part# you have the .029 wall tube.

I found this web site for tube but it not clear what wall thickness I guess it all .014 unless it says thick wall

http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=RDA&mfg_s=k+s&p=2

[nichismo]

lol yeah the strut bushing doesn't even fit.

Speaking of the strut, I actually really like the flat bottom extended Speedmaster strut. I been thinking of getting one here off OSE

[nichismo]

sup guys

just wanted to give an update to what's been going on, starting to get pretty close to body and prep work for paint. I'd like to know if anyone here knows of a decent air gun and compressor, or a kit that won't break the bank and help me get started in painting, mainly for epoxy primers and paint. I thought at first I would just use a brush but now I'm thinking spray will be better. this is going to be my first time painting seriously so.

I got the back bulkhead installed, along with most of the main sub hatch lip. yesterday I was able to stop by my local marine hardware store and pick up some much needed supplies. I got the west systems pump tops which help immensely, some 406 and 407 fillers, gorilla glue (this stuff is awesome) and a few other minor items. now I'll be able to install any wood first and then coat after , and not have to worry about sagging or drips. I'm going to add a couple little platforms in each corner just in front of the bulkhead for the reciever and any other item. also, I've started cutting the back turbine tray , I'm going to dramatically change the majority of this piece to more appropriately accommodate whatever dummy turbine j end up using (i think im going to just going to buy a carbon fiber tube 1.5 - 2" diameter and wrap it in Chrome vinyl). also to give more freedom towards however I want to position and secure it.

I ran out of 1/16" plywood, so im not able to finish the rest of the subhatch cover until tomorrow, when I can stop by my local hobby lobby. In the meantime, I am going to mix some epoxy and add the 406 silica to thicken it up, and I am going to seal the bottom part of the tub lip, and the inside corners of the extension box, and the floor and corner areas of the bulkhead to make sure they are all sealed and structurally sound. Im going to also add a small little platform just in front of the bulkhead for the reciever to sit on.

Still not sure how I am going to configure the battery area and the hatch and cover for that area. I will be buying a couple of 5000mah hyperion 4S packs, they are approximately 160mm long, by 44mm wide and 39mm high. I plan on mounting them as far foward as possible obviously, and on their sides in parrallel with each other, in order to use as little width space as possible. I was going to just buy a couple of carbon fiber trays, but I realized that at 56mm wide each, this wouldn't benefit me really, so ill probably just fashion something simple from wood to just provide a platform to lift and run the straps through. The walls up in that area underneath where the cockpit and driver will be, are a little awkward in terms of building the enclosure. I figured that ill have two covers rather than just 1, the main cover with the extension box being a simple rectangle and and the battery one being very small and little curve as possible, probably only covering about half the length of the batteries. Ill leave enough room just behind the motor in order to slide the batteries in and under the cockpit area.

as always, would love to hear any feedback and really encourage any insight and/or constructive criticism.

thanks !!

First bulkhead sanded and shaped to fit the walls and floor flush as possible




First supporting frame sticks tacked and placed in position

[nichismo]

left side tub lip tacked and in position



Both sides of tub lips placed and curing




1/16" sheet wood sits nice and flush for tape seal!

[nichismo]

Subhatch cover extension box built



Much needed supplies!



I also found this video, it was uploaded in 2011 but according to the camera it was filmed in 2006. Its the same Phil Thomas T5, and it appears to be running superbly! Id be very happy if I can get mine to look and drive like that. Apparently its at about 55mph there, with a "plettenberg" motor (which im unfamiliar with, im curious as to how my 835kv Leopard 5698 compares to it) on 10s. I plan to run 8s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSP3x-SKfT0

[nichismo]

Well that last extension box I just posted pictures of is garbage now, I dont know what I was thinking but I didnt even remotely get an idea of what size this thing should be, and after reinstalling the motor and ESC in position, I realize that I pretty much have to craft the extension box to take up as much space as the cowling will possibly allow. A 56mm motor with this ESC on top, along with the capacitator bank are behemoths.... Seeing that I will only be running 8s, I dont think Ill need the extras, and also the current connectors on the ESC are too large for whats on the motor, so it looks like I will have to rewire everything.

As for the rest of the interior, I think I am going to run a beam across the front of what I currently have constructed, so that this particular cover can be a nice and easy square, however Im not sure if this will be enough room.... and obviously I need to be able to fit the batteries in. Any ideas?

Also, I bought a servo from my local hobby shop. This one: http://www.fantasyworldhobbies.com/r...al-gear-servo/

I wanted to get one of those billet servo mounts here on OSE that I seem to see so often, but I was going to mount it on the wall of the engine tub. so that the servo is right side up, but the holes in the side of the engine tub prevent me from doing this, and id rather not place the servo farther forward then the motor lol. So im probably just going to get one of the carbon fiber mounts and epoxy it into the hull.

Tonight, I should be able to finish the water cooling, simple as it is. Ive also got some great planes 5/32" landing gear. Im going to drill a couple holes in the bulkhead, and use the landing gear to bolt two 5/32" inch brass tubes to the wall and run them up to the motor and ESC and then place some water outlets on the side of the hull. When im ready and installing everything for good, ill connect the silicon tubing for the rest of the routing, and that will take care of the water cooling.

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[nichismo]

Actually this extension box is too big. lol

going to remake again, this one will be PERFECT.

[Speed810]

Morning Nic.... Looks like things are coming along pretty good. Have you done any weight and balancing on the boat yet with batteries and all hardware? Would be interested to see what your overall weight is going to be when its balanced out.

Keep up the great work....!!!

Finally have top sheets going down on my build today...then prep and paint.....:)

Mike

[nichismo]

thanks, I noticed you are getting pretty darn close to painting! thaya awesome, what primer and paints are you using? also, I was curious what you used for your wing tabs, and what kind of filler you used on your cowling ? I saw the red so I figured it was a bondo glazing putty

I actually really need to do that, it's funny you mention cause I was thinking of this exactly earlier today. I'm going to pause any work toward the actual hull completion until I have the rest of the necessary components. I need to order the batteries and a servo mount, and whatever other minor hardware I need so I can test fit everything, then accordingly craft the rest of the electronics box and such.

in the meantime, I'm going to bond the cowling and cockpit together, as the wall where they meet needs to be removed. I'll add the wood reinforcement after thar and magnets and flotation, however Im not sure if I should do the electronics box first. well see.

[Speed810]

Morning Nic....

Yep....weight and balance is important. Make sure all your batteries, servo, wing assembly and hardware are mounted and then check your CG. It appears that the general point of balance with most of these 1/8 scale is between 1" and 1 1/2" behind the sponson heel. I have found that figure puts you right around the center point of the turn fin. Mine took about 13 oz in each sponson tip. Seemed like a lot, but most folks here and the guys at the club said that is not uncommon. Overall weight is right around 19 1/2 pounds. After finish and paint I'm suspecting it will be a 20 pound model. Again seems like that's awful heavy, but folks have seen them as high as 23 pounds and the boat is still a mover....so I've been advised not to worry about the weight. That's why I am really interested to see where yours comes in at.

I am using House of Color (HOK) products to complete the boat, including the clear coat. The wing tabs were made from aluminum approx. 1/16". Used all nylon machine screws to assemble. Your right the majority of the cowl was filled with bondo putty glaze, but there were larger areas that I used west system with the filler added to get a thick paste.

Just finished my top sheeting last night. Have some finishing fill to complete then on to the final epoxy coats. Finish sanding and paint starts.....:)

Mike

[nichismo]

Darn, I feel a little uneasy reading "I am really interested to see where yours comes in at." lol

I can only imagine its going to be extremely heavy, the overall material construction I figure adds up to be alot more than the laser cut wooden kits. Im going to have to do alot of bodywork too, theres quite a few pinholes to fill and ill be doing a good amount of fairing, seeing how most of my hull modifications and hardware installs were far from ideal, lol.

Also with this 56mm, near 2.5lb behemoth motor, its certainly going to be hindered in the speed department. I ordered the last 1.5y NEU 1527 last week, and I was appauled by the size and weight difference, even moreso considering the fact that the NEU would not only push the boat faster, but probably draw less power as well. Unfortunately that motor wont be for this specific hull.

My wing tabs are also going to be 1/16" aluminum, an awesome member here on OSE was amazingly kind enough to craft me a couple pieces that ill be using, and also is providing me with the angled Virginia craftsman skid fin bracket. Couldnt be more luckier to have his help, hopefully I havnt annoyed him too much yet with my constant picking and nagging lol.

Im really excited to see your finished boat, I have been considering going with the similar paint scheme for this boat too. I have referred to your thread several times and its been very helpful to say the least, really helped me get visualization on how to run layout of everything.

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