OK heres some terrible video I took by myself of the p-1 I've been trying to get the bugs out of. Im having issues with cavitation, the hull wanting to hook right all the time, and general low top speed. Running the stock 54mm 3-blade from my atomic arc, 10s, castle 2028. FE calc says I should be seeing about 50mph. This run max speed was 36, with lots of cavitation, and a nervous driver trying to keep the boat going straight. The hooking problem goes away as the boat accelerates. I think the stock stinger is a crummy design and is mounted too high on the hull, so since I'm running a much smaller prop than the stock 68mm gas prop, I have to trim the stinger way down to get it to hook up and get on plane. But the stinger angle is too far negative once its on plane. Could the fact that I can't get the prop far enough in the water cause it to act like a paddle wheel, pushing the back end to the left, making the boat steer right?? I think I might need a prop of at least 60mm, and probably a different stinger to correct the drive angle. Any thoughts?? Oh yeah and the props haft is 5mm so I'd need to replace it with a 1/4 shaft stepped down to 3/16 to run any props other than What I have.
@ 40 seconds I bring it in and zoom in. I think thats just making it more difficult to keep the boat in frame. Wont be doing that anymore. Ill be uploading some pics of the stinger soon.
Can you post some pictures of the setup in the hull and where cells are sitting at in the hull ?
That 54mm cat prop is probably a lifter and not going to work to good on a mono,
But test with it anyway for now.
First thing I would do is get that stinger pointing up about 1/8" to 3/16 from the bottom of the hull,
And take the spacing washer off at the prop dog and just keep a gap of 3/16 to 1/4 there.
Also move the trim tabs up about 3/16" to 1/4 at the ends of them.
Than I would move the cells back towards the transom about 2" if you have the room,
Maybe more.
The rudder also looks like it is kicked in towards the bottom of the boat,
And that will bring the bow down.
Try to get it straight and level and snug it up tight.
Than do a test run and see how it rides and get up on plane,
And check for speeds to.
Just do not push it to fast because it will not be that stable just yet.
Still working on the issues. Got a new speedmaster 1/4" stinger and new stepped down shaft to accept 3/16 props. I have a new 55mm cnc 2-blade and also a 59mm 3-blade as well. So I got the old stinger off and dremmeled the existing stuffing tube exit hole down flush with the hull bottom. Installed the new stinger and also new smaller stuffing tube with the correct bend. The stock tube was a straight piece of aluminum with 2 teflon tubes inside. I was able to dremmel the rudder mount holes a little to correct the angle. Also the rails are 2-ply plywood and the radio box screws down from the top onto the rails and the screws seperated the plies of wood. Trying the quick fix with wood glue and clamps. Might have to figure something else out if the glue doesnt hold. Just waiting on a new pair of turnigy nano-tech A-spec 65-130c 5s lipos that I want to try out and run as a 1P setup. Run times will be short, but I think this hull will do better with less weight.
Ok,
But I am talking about at the bottom of the hull and stinger.
Normally you need a 1/8" or more gap there,
Or have it so you can slide the stinger mount up or down for adjustments.
That is if the mount has slotted bolt holes in it.
Resurrecting this old thread. I never got a chance to finish this project. After installing the new stinger, it sat for a while and I sold the electronics. Yesterday I bought a motor and esc from a zelos 48 that I am installing to run on 8s with a 52mm prop. Hoping for good results.
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