VENOM EKOS 4S 5000mah LIKE BUTTER

[VIKOS]

Good question maybe a nitro cat setup would work just before the rudder or you could just go with another type of rudder cresrarch before cause once u cut no going back unless u glass it over which will never be ass tuff as the whole boat glassed or a mold.

[Rumdog]

It is the same hull as the HOTR cat, so a single will fit on the tunnel just fine.

[obrien008]

Ok thanks alot, has anyone had any luck getting the turingy 180s in this thing?

[forescott]

Ok thanks alot, has anyone had any luck getting the turingy 180s in this thing?

If your packs are in the sponsons, then there should be plenty of room for the 180's between the sponsons.

[obrien008]

What about height wise though? I know the hotr does have too much height to it?

[forescott]

Should be no problem. The 180 isnt too tall and the hatch bubble gives some extra space.

[VIKOS]

Like I was gona do but then I realized that 120 amp is more than you will ever need to push or the hull would handle at the speeds that you'd come close to..those 120 amp are continous not peak rating..I think peak is like capable of 6s maybe 7s..thats serious power right there...this may be a 70 mph hull but wouldn't want to see a crash after that...well ran the boat yesterday on 4S again..motors not even warm lol its my 8th time..gonna stop counting though after the 10th time..this is a capable 4s boat to me..depends all on the props that you use really. Other than that she should be fine. I think most did something wrong with ther ESC or maybe timing by pressing throttle while the connected there boat lol mine works great..over 20 runs on the stock set up minus shafts and dog gears and couplers from JEFFS shop.

[scubasteve95]

gunna try your set-up and drop down to the 32mm props see if
i can get alittle more out of her.other wise same results @ about
5 months and over 100 runs....i love this boat.

[pmisuinas]

Well, I got mine in the water on 4s and it really moves. A couple of observations and some advice needed: I was surprised how low it sat in the water (4s 5000 packs) the back end was submerged to the hatch line--but it came out of the water when I hit the throttle, that's for sure.

But it also bounced a lot--the front end was like it was on a trampoline. I take it this is a balance problem--do I need to try and push the packs forward a bit? Where are you guys balancing this hull? Have not changed any drive angles, just ran it the way it came (although I am running 9xl and cf40 props with Turnigy 120s--don't want to give any false impressions here). Thanks...Pete M

PS--serious difference in speed between 3s and 4s packs--I use the programming box to reset the cutoff voltage when I want to just "cruise" around on 3s packs--nice to have that easy to do option...

PPS--also, adapters for the 3/16" prop--turned out I couldn't find any brass tubing to fit without a long drive to hobby shop, so I used the outer sheath fromn a Nyrod--if you want to get fancy, make a spiral cut in the plastic, then you can slip it over the shaft and the prop fits great. but if you get tired of it breaking on you while trying a spiral cut, a straight cut will work just as well.

[forescott]

Like I was gona do but then I realized that 120 amp is more than you will ever need to push or the hull would handle at the speeds that you'd come close to..those 120 amp are continous not peak rating..I think peak is like capable of 6s maybe 7s..thats serious power right there...this may be a 70 mph hull but wouldn't want to see a crash after that...well ran the boat yesterday on 4S again..motors not even warm lol its my 8th time..gonna stop counting though after the 10th time..this is a capable 4s boat to me..depends all on the props that you use really. Other than that she should be fine. I think most did something wrong with ther ESC or maybe timing by pressing throttle while the connected there boat lol mine works great..over 20 runs on the stock set up minus shafts and dog gears and couplers from JEFFS shop.

I'm sure the wire drives really help to reduce motor load!

[forescott]

Well, I got mine in the water on 4s and it really moves. A couple of observations and some advice needed: I was surprised how low it sat in the water (4s 5000 packs) the back end was submerged to the hatch line--but it came out of the water when I hit the throttle, that's for sure.

But it also bounced a lot--the front end was like it was on a trampoline. I take it this is a balance problem--do I need to try and push the packs forward a bit? Where are you guys balancing this hull? Have not changed any drive angles, just ran it the way it came (although I am running 9xl and cf40 props with Turnigy 120s--don't want to give any false impressions here). Thanks...Pete M

PS--serious difference in speed between 3s and 4s packs--I use the programming box to reset the cutoff voltage when I want to just "cruise" around on 3s packs--nice to have that easy to do option...

PPS--also, adapters for the 3/16" prop--turned out I couldn't find any brass tubing to fit without a long drive to hobby shop, so I used the outer sheath fromn a Nyrod--if you want to get fancy, make a spiral cut in the plastic, then you can slip it over the shaft and the prop fits great. but if you get tired of it breaking on you while trying a spiral cut, a straight cut will work just as well.

Not much room for battery adjustment. I would play with the drive angle adjustment.

[VIKOS]

I bet but I have flex shafts from jeff not wire drive..so if thats the case I know that I could run 36mm on 4s and if scuba does go to 32mm props..wow that thing might just be a High RPM bullet. The issue I'm having now is with the left motor mount if looking from the back of the hull...its pretty loose and when shafts are turned you can see motor shake a lil. Anyone got remedys..noticed the mount towards the bottom of the hull had gotten pushed towards the rudder..its still fiberglassed down..its just the mount moves a lil..anyone got remedies..or is a new hull in order...was gona use some epoxy to station it and set it.

[forescott]

I bet but I have flex shafts from jeff not wire drive..so if thats the case I know that I could run 36mm on 4s and if scuba does go to 32mm props..wow that thing might just be a High RPM bullet. The issue I'm having now is with the left motor mount if looking from the back of the hull...its pretty loose and when shafts are turned you can see motor shake a lil. Anyone got remedys..noticed the mount towards the bottom of the hull had gotten pushed towards the rudder..its still fiberglassed down..its just the mount moves a lil..anyone got remedies..or is a new hull in order...was gona use some epoxy to station it and set it.

I would get some 5 min. epoxy and spread it around the motor mount to beef it up. Epoxy works wonders, and you can get it at home depot in a syringe-like tube that mixes it as it exits the tube. I like this type because you can get the epoxy into tight spots without getting it all over everything. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...8&n=228013&s=h

[VIKOS]

Yep just used some epoxy with filler. Rolled it sanded a bit spread it avoiding space where motor and coupler go. Smoothed out just waiting now. Then gona use a regular clear to fill the space on the bottom of the mount. Should do the trick. It's no longer moving. Those types of glue I don't trust. I usually still mix it in a paper plate then spread. Thanks man for advice. Working or seems to be solved.

[scubasteve95]

sounds like you got it under control,
try 50min marine epoxy from homedepot if you still have issues
you still have to mix it
but with the surface prepped good it holds strong.
and the 32mm props are on the way,so we will see.