The Voracity tuning thread

[arrover]

I ran the x460 again tonight with a new set of batteries. They are the same brand and model (Turnigy Heavy-Duty 60-120C 5000mah) packs that I have always run in this boat but they are new. The conditions were similar to the other day except that it wasn't raining. The boat ran 71.9mph. I guess the new packs made a difference.

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[arrover]

Last night I switched the 6mm motor/ESC bullets to Castle 8mm. I also spread them out to hopefully let them cool a little better. I used water cooling hose. I don't know the temp rating on it so I'll have to keep an eye on it. I ran it today with the same prop and batteries as yesterday and ran 70.5 or something. The water was to flat for good speed. The bullet temps MIGHT have been a tiny bit cooler but no drastic drop in temps unfortunately. I'll have to keep an eye on it to get a feel for how much cooler but it's not much. Probably in the 5-15 degree range.

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[kfxguy]

That's the kind of stuff to know! Can you shorten your wires? Maybe try silver solder

[arrover]

Someone else mentioned silver solder to me.... Do you use silver solder on your builds KFX? I used Novak brand solder that I bought a long time ago and I have no idea what it's make-up is. I do feel that my joints are up to par though. The ESC wires could be a little bit shorter but I'm just not sure it would be worth the time/work. ???? Still having a blast with this boat.

[kfxguy]

Someone else mentioned silver solder to me.... Do you use silver solder on your builds KFX? I used Novak brand solder that I bought a long time ago and I have no idea what it's make-up is. I do feel that my joints are up to par though. The ESC wires could be a little bit shorter but I'm just not sure it would be worth the time/work. ???? Still having a blast with this boat.

I haven't been using silver solder but I haven't had any issues.


Well guys I guess I'm out of the game for good with this boat. I've been thinking about the boat all week. Ordered some pretty pearl blue base coat for it. Started peeling the decals off tonight and horror was hidden underneath. When I peeled the hatch seal up, the whole rail was broken through from side to side with the hatch bolt hole in the middle. Both sides of the boat were cracked through where the top and bottom of the hull are joined. I'm not sure what to think of it. I had some minor gel coat cracks here and there and then the last time I drove it, I flipped it and it caused all this damage I guess. The bad thing is the gps only read 36mph and I was just starting to get into the throttle and I don't remember why but it flipped. After seeing the damage tonight, I decided I was going to rip the innards out and do a carbon inlay and fix the cracks but after taking one battery tray out it realized the stuff isn't elmers glued in like the geico I had a long time ago. I'll end up busting a hole through the hull if I continue. So I don't know what to do now. I shelved it and called it a night.

[Rafael_Lopez]

On my personal builds I use nothing but silver solder because the solder tends to spread throughout the entire soldering point. Connectors do seem to run cooler and I've never melted them off the wires using silver solder. The best way to solder the wire is to the side of the connector. The worst thing you can do is pool lead solder around the wire, between the connector.


For Production we've spec'ed out a special solder assembly method that uses minimal solder while ensuring a solid bond; with the least resistance possible considering the use of lead solder.

[Banzee]

Shortening the motor wire will affect something on the esc-motor setup ??

[Rafael_Lopez]

Excess wire=resistance. Shortening the wires will lessen the resistance, bringing down temps on the wires and connectors. Over sizing the wires usually dissipates heat and lowers resistance.

[Banzee]

Thank's , i was just asking , cuz i had to cut the motor wires for about a quarter of an inch cuz one of my connector was damage , and i just cut all to the same lenght !

[arrover]

Today I was testing another prop with a 2.3" diameter and it looks like the prop somehow got into the rudder. I'm still trying to figure out how this is even possible. I was at the end of one straight line pass and the boat appeared to get upset about the same time I let off the throttle. It was fairly far away from me so I couldn't really see what happened. I was not turning at the time. The boat continued to run and I found the prop and rudder damage when I got it back to the dock. No hull damage. At first I thought I had hit a floating log but I don't think wood could make such deep marks in the rudder. Unless I hit some wood and that pushed the rudder into the prop? Strange and disappointing. Even when flexing the rudder by hand, I can't get it even close to touching the prop. Anyway, at this point, you might want to use caution if you are running big props like this. I'm just not sure what happened.

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[Voracity]

Hello, new here from the netherlands. I have been Reading up on this forum, very interesting. I have a stock voracity since a week. Big fun. Friends of my have a miss geico 29 and Genesis 36. We all reach speeds of around 48 mph, today the geico reached 56 (flat water). The voracity only 47. Is this because of hull diffences?

I have a few questions i am hoping to find the answers to.

Should I change te prop height? Stock iT is up I guess. During acceleration iT seems the prop is slipping or getting some air for 1-2 seconds, is this normal?

Should i change anything with the trim pads? What is in your opinion the best position for lipos?

IF i want to keep everything stock except the prop, which prop can i safely choose without any risk of damage? What would it bring?

I now run gens ace 25-50c 2x3s lipos 5ooo mah. Is there any point in choosing higher c and mah? Are turnigy good quality or better choose expensive lipos?

Thanx!

[arrover]

Congrats on the new boat. I think you're going to like it. The different hull type does play a big role. The cats should have less hull drag than a V. Completely flat water is not the fastest for a V hull. A little bit of wind stirs up the surface of the water and causes less drag on the V hull. You should run the strut (prop height) level and see how the boat runs. If it runs slower and looks like to much hull is in the water, then raise it slightly and retest. Some prop slip on acceleration is normal. Some props have more than others. You have to keep in mind that there is a lot of power going to that small prop. You should run the tips of the trim tabs level with the bottom of the boat. Put a straight edge on the bottom of the boat and the tips of the tabs should just touch it. The lipos should be all the way back as far as possible. An Octura M645 is the same pitch and diameter as the stock prop so it shouldn't tax the electronics any more. It should give you around 4-5 mph increase with a little bit more prop slip from a standstill. My voracity ran 54.6mph with the m645. Higher battery mah will give you longer run times but I think most guys are running two 5000mah packs like you are. That size is what I have always run and they work well. Higher C rating would be nice but I think you'll be ok all stock with conservative props. I run Turnigy Heavy Duty packs and I like them. They are something like 60-120c. Pay attention to battery connectors when you're choosing batteries. In order to use the Turnigy batteries that I use, you will have to change the battery connectors to 5.5mm bullets.

[Voracity]

Big thanx for the fast response. Went out today with a lot more wind and indeed: top speed reached 52 mph. Only one downside: it flipped and now there is a crack at the top of the transom at the side of rudder for half the width of the boat... I believe this shouldn't be possible and is a fabrixation issue? Do you perhaps heard of more like this?

[arrover]

Sorry to hear that. A wreck at 50 is a serious amount of strain on a hull. You could call Pro Boat and see what they say. Unfortunately you just can't run high speeds in all conditions. I have flipped boats more than a few times (fortunately not my Voracity).

[arrover]

Today I ran an ABC 2314-10-50 to 72.3mph on 6S. I tried to run a 2314 a few weeks ago and that's when I hit something and hurt the rudder and prop. Today I was able to get some good passes in on fast water but the speed wasn't as high as I expected. It basically ran the same as my 2214-10-50. That's kind of a head scratcher. I do feel like I'm at the limit of diameter though. This huge prop chine walks fairly badly on smooth water and even a little wobble on wind blown water. Then at the end of several runs I hit something and hurt the second prop and rudder AGAIN. Frustrating but it's fun watching the boat run fast. Still running the Leopard 4092 and Turnigy 180a ESC.

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