New owner, some questions on salt water use / after run / setup

[Tharr62]

Thanks for sticking with me.. LOL.. I am sitting here at the computer really wanting to take the boat out.. but, want to be sure I get all of this sorted out in my mind first.


So, in summery.. flossing the liner may not be a good idea in salt water, because your saying some salt can get trapped between the liner, and the inside of the stuffing tube (shaft) that I wont be able to access?

and that, I just need to accept that removing the motor is part of what needs to be done at the end of the day to remove the liner, and do the proper cleaning.

or..

Upgrade to the other cable, and not have to deal with it at all?



I did remove the motor just now to see how it went. Yes, simple. But, whats the best way to be SURE its properly aligned back up?


Whats the point of the liner anyway? Is it to prevent wear on the inside of the drive shaft? If this is the case, then I wonder how running the bigger drive shaft would not create more wear and tear to the inside of the drive shaft? I am wondering how it works?

[tlandauer]

The best way to line up the motor is to have the motor in place with the screws half tightened, push the cable all the way in and it should enter the coller or coupler without you having to struggle. Hold the motor in that position and tighten.
In all the posts that I have read, having no liner will not cause undue wear, of course provided the cable is free to spin, that means your tube has to be in good shape, i.e. No kinks or dramatic bend, nothing you need to worry.
Truth be told: the bigger cable is a good idea if you run bigger motor and higher cell count, for stock power set up the cable that you have ordered is enough. It's your call, really.

BTW, you are not removing the motor with the mount from the wood, are you? PB uses blind nut under the wooden platform, if you do that, do not over tighen the screws or you risk stripping the blind nuts or tear them loose from their "grab" of the wood.
Just saying.....

[tlandauer]

Flossing is a good idea but not a thorough job especially if the boat is run in salt water, I would take it out and clean it, that is just the way how I would approach it.

[Tharr62]

Truth be told: the bigger cable is a good idea if you run bigger motor and higher cell count, for stock power set up the cable that you have ordered is enough. It's your call, really.

I only want to run with 4S. Ever. Can I still use the upgraded cable? Truth is.. the only reason I would be doing this is to be able to remove the teflon tube, and avoid having to hassle around with the motor at all. Is this okay?

BTW, you are not removing the motor with the mount from the wood, are you? PB uses blind nut under the wooden platform, if you do that, do not over tighen the screws or you risk stripping the blind nuts or tear them loose from their "grab" of the wood.
Just saying.....

I think I did?? here is a pic of how I did it.. Great.. are you saying this was wrong? LOL I thought THIS was how you changed the aligment etc..

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So... assuming this is wrong.. how in the world do I put it back without damage? Should I use loctight too? Man.. frustrating.. I feel like I can't touch this boat as it is. :-( Maybe I should have just stuck with the Atomic Barbwire..

[tlandauer]

Yes, the up graded cable is fine if you use it.
The way I remove the motor is to detach it from the metal mount on the front, you need to buy a set ot L-shaped Allen wrench. It is M3 sized machine bolt, 2.5mm is the size. I get the better type of these tools, on the long end it is a ball drive, you can turn it at a slight angle. However, you can do it your way but no blue loc tight if you need to remove the motor after each outing. It is a delicate feat and be careful if this is the way you choose to do it.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=SM&I=LX9124

[Tharr62]

Okay.. will do. I will just put it back, and tighten "snug" and then never deal with it again. If I need to remove the motor I will do it your way. So.. should I use some loctight then to return it back?

EDIT - I guess I should just now wait until my new cable, and collet arrive so I can accurately put everything back in place. LOL. Please confirm, that I should use a little blue locktight on the bolts when I put back?

[tlandauer]

Wait until your cable arrives, alingn the mmotor really well, dap a bit of BLUE--liigght duty loctight. Good to go...

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[Tharr62]

Sounds great! Will do! Hopefully next week it arrives, and I can get this thing in the water!!

On the new HD cable I ordered from OSE with the use of no liner.. I know I will lube the shaft really well.. but, do you think I can get three or four runs in before I would need to re-lube the shaft?

I don't think its possible to replace the stuffing shaft in the boat (if it wears down)? So, I want to be sure that this upgrade will not destroy it. Was that the point of the stock liner, to protect the stuffing shaft to start with?

[tlandauer]

Not sure what you mean by 3 or 4 runs before greasing. If you mean 3 or 4 circles on the lake, yes, but after the end of each session--when you are done, you need to lube it.
I have only three or four years under my belt, the liner is used for a long time way before FE has so much power and speed, the gas guys used it, it does protect the tube somwhat, but it takes really badly running cable to wear out the tube. Yes, its going to be hard to replace the tube, but its not impossible. On the IM its trickier, not as simple as on the Revolt 30.
Some guys will never run with a liner,they hate it, and these guys are usually great builders/racers. I am a sport boater, I do 50-50, my drive train usually run very smooth, so I don't worry such things. A neglected liner will grab the cable and the whole thing goes like a roto rooter, it will twist the brass tube, so the liner is in fact a two edged sword.

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[Tharr62]

Not sure what you mean by 3 or 4 runs before greasing. If you mean 3 or 4 circles on the lake, yes, but after the end of each session--when you are done, you need to lube it.

Ah! yes, let me be sure I understand this..

If I take my boat, and I take lets say three sets of batteries with me to run. Each set will last (whatever the run time is? 5 -7min?). This is what I mean by run. So, can I run one set of batteries for 5 or 7min.. and then bring it in, swap out the batteries for another set, run again... etc.. three times before I will need to take out the flex cable? So, I am looking at like 15 - 20min of use..

Otherwise, your saying.. I would need to re-lube after each battery of only a few mins of fun?

[tlandauer]

Well, from my experience, your run time on each set of batteries will not be 5 or 7 minutes!!!! You risk your batteries' life by over discharging them, I think first time you need to bring your boat back in under 2 minutes and check your temperature, I also have a battery check that tells me how much capacity is drained.
For 15-20 min. run, I will take the cable out and lube it at least once, if you use liner, no need to take liner out. The grease gets thinned and mixed with water pretty easily, but if there is no grease left and you are not using the liner, there is a chance that you will get a bit of water inside not to mention metal to metal contact would welcome the presence of grease.

[tlandauer]

You must not run non-stop for 5 minutes or 7 minutes!

[Tharr62]

I will def. bring the boat in for the first few runs after 2min to check temps etc..

But, once I see that it is normal, and everything is okay.. I should be able to run for at least 5min?

I am using 6600mAh 4S 45C ThunderPower Packs. (this is two 4S packs that are 3300 each together in the boat).

I think I have read 4.5 to 5min was about 5000mAh on a comparable boat / setup? So, I was hoping for slightly more time.. and I won't be running WOT the entire time either etc..

I have the ESC set to "high cut off" 3.3V / cell...

[tlandauer]

I like running parallel set ups, but on my Pursuit I run two 5000MaH ( 4s2p) so my total capacity is 10,000Mah. I can say that I would be able to run 5 minutes, even longer, but I cut my run usually on the 4 min. mark.
TP packs are great, I have them as well. Make sure you have no less than 20% left in your batteries . Some people leave even more reserve, so your actual run time may be less than you expect.
Another thing: Running your boat at part throttle is HARD on your ESC, it is to be avoided, what you gain in run time you end up paying on the replacement of the ESC.

[Tharr62]

wow only 4min. Heck, I get 7 and 8 from a flying multi rotor with camera, and gimbal and I land with 3.5V / cell!

Granted, a fast boat is going to take more power etc.. I get it. I guess, I should have done a bit more research on all of this. I am started to see why the RC boats are in the few numbers compared to all the other RC's out there. One will spend way more time in cleanup, and "stuff" then actually enjoying the activity. LOL. Like you said, the care for the boat I guess needs to be part of the fun... but.. I'm not sure how I feel about that... yet.