I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.
Flexdrive cable adjustment
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Don't tighten the prop nut against the prop so much, just enough to where it won't let the prop "back-up" off the drive dog. It puts stress/tension on the plastic and makes it shatter.Comment
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thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do
The stock esc is only rated at 45 amps. Your 4000mah 20c batteries will deliver 80 amps constant, 120 burst. The 20c batteries will do just fine for that motor and esc.Comment
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Then why does proboat tech notes state a battery with a minimum of 25C. for the fastech, and it does state minimum. the 20 C wil lwork but ill bet they get hotter than hell.Comment
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They only get hot when the system is stressing the lipos by trying to draw the limits of what the batteries can provide. I've run 7.4 5000mah 20c turnigy batteries for over a year, sometimes till the lvc (3.4) cuts in and they are just warm at most. Many others run the same batteries with absolutely no ill effects. The racers preheat their lipos to 110 to get the best performance out of them so I guess it depends on what "hot" is (over 130 to me)Last edited by lectriglide; 08-06-2010, 08:04 PM.Comment
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I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.Comment
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I am certainly not an electrical engineer, but I do know that if your 20c lipos are getting hot, then you need to get some better batteries. I've run plenty of 20c packs in all of my boats, some with higher amp ratings than the proboat, and haven't had any heat issues with any of em. Keep in mind that a lot of companies over-rate their products to make a sale. A lot of e-bay stores are famous for this. I've seen plenty of guys buy inexpensive lipos and wonder why they get super-hot or burn up. In my opinion anything above 30c on the stock proboat electronics is a waste.Last edited by shotimes95; 08-06-2010, 08:41 PM.Comment
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I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!Comment
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I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!Last edited by shotimes95; 08-06-2010, 08:56 PM.Comment
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I've been hearing that recently too. But I'm still getting packs shipped to me in 10-days and haven't had a bad one yet. Most recent purchase was received just last week. I dunno, I may be just lucky, but there is a lot of happy ose members that have nothing but good things to say about em as well.Comment
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